I have been running their 2-6-0 and like it and wonder about those two ? I have a layout with 18" radius curves and #4 switches, all Shinohara if that matters.
I have the 2-8-2 Mikado and a GG1. I am very happy with both engines.
The decoders don't support the Vstart CV, so they do exhibit jackrabbit starts when not under load. I found that reducing the Vmax CV changed the starting acceleration and made the engines smoother performers. I never run high speed trains anyway, so nothing was lost.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
What is Vstart CV. The 2-6-0 I have starts out at a crawl, no jack rabit starts at all, at least on DCC.
rrebell What is Vstart CV. The 2-6-0 I have starts out at a crawl, no jack rabit starts at all, at least on DCC.
Vstart is CV2. It is the minimum voltage applied to the motor when going from speed step 0 to 1.
There is also Vmax (CV5)(voltage on motor at top speed) and Vmidpoint (CV6).
Im still curious what exact kind of capabilities those Bachmann DCC sound value engines have. I dont have an engine equipped with it, I heard its not really good.
But as long as you're satisfied with the detail and performance and sound from them, the 2-8-2 and 4-6-2 are made with equal quality, and shouldn't dissappoint.
Of all the manufacturers who have made a non-brass HO USRA 2-8-2 (BLI,MTH,Oriental powerhouse,Trix/Marklin,Athearn Genesis, Bachmann,IHC,Rivarossi/AHM), Bachmann's detail is comparable to Athearn Genesis's mikados/pacifics in terms of detail. With IHC, rivarossi/ahm having less, and BLI,MTH,Trix, etc having more.
Charles
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Modeling the Santa Fe & Pennsylvania in HO
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The detailing on the 2-6-0 is pretty decent, yes they are not as detailed as some but I fiqured I am mainly paying for the electronics. The speed control is as good as the most expencive engine I have. The motor noise is higher but not bad. The sound is great though the more expencive engines are more relistic sound wise but I only paid $99 for them. Word of warning though, they do need to run awhile and you do need to check that the wires are bin the right place (first one was perfect out of box, second one had drawbar bent wrong way and a couple wires were in wrong place on as far as placement on the wrong side of drawbar, took all of 5 sec. to fix both but it also took a few runs around the layout to achive the same smothness as other out of box.
I was actually about to get the 2-6-0 for myself, theyre really cheap these days. Figured it would be a nice start for kitbashing, and possibly creating a freelanced model like DocterWaynes.
But something about them always looked wrong, and that bothered me.
Turns out its the fact that the headlight is way too small(easy fix), and the fact that the boiler lacks boiler bands. Its so smooth.
It could be fixed, but I cant see myself adding boiler bands to an engine. That stuff requires far more precision than my hands could offer!
My layout is basically flat. Still, the Bachmann Mikado struggles with some short trains of a dozen cars or so. It doesn't have traction tires and is not a heavy engine. It really helped when I replaced my old plastic wheels with metal wheelsets.
Trainman440...Turns out its the fact that the headlight is way too small(easy fix), and the fact that the boiler lacks boiler bands. Its so smooth...
I never cared for the appearance of headlights atop the smokebox, and wouldn't use them unless I were attempting to model a prototype which used them.
There are plenty of headlight styles and mounting brackets available from Cal-Scale (Bowser) and PSC.
As for the boiler bands, they could be quite easily added using either strip styrene or brass bar of suitable width and thickness.If the model has moulded-on piping, you may wish to remove it before adding the bands, then replace the piping with three-dimensional ones bent from wire.
To properly align the bands and keep them parallel to one another, use dividers, with one leg of them against the front face of the cab, and the other at each point where a band is needed. Simply keep the one leg against the cab as you drag the dividers up and over the boiler, lightly scribing a line to which you can position each boiler band.
This Bowser Pacific has no cast-on boiler bands, but it will be getting a complete makeover, with the cab and all boiler details removed and replaced, as necessary, to represent a specific prototype...
I'd cut the bands somewhat longer than needed, then, after carefully positioning the end of each band into position, cement that end in-place (make sure that the rest of its length is aligned with the scribed marking).
You can then position the free end of the band on the marked line and cut-off most of the length that's obviously too long. For the rest of the excess, cut it off in increasingly smaller increments, until it fits perfectly, then with the band still properly aligned and tight to the boiler, cement that end in place. You can then apply cement to either the entire band/boiler interface, or select several points along its length to keep it properly aligned.
Wayne
MisterBeasleyStill, the Bachmann Mikado struggles with some short trains of a dozen cars or so. It doesn't have traction tires and is not a heavy engine. It really helped when I replaced my old plastic wheels with metal wheelsets.
Are you talking about their recent USRA Mikado, or the old Chinese prototype one Bachmann used to make?
I got mine when they first started marketing the Sound Value models. I like the detailing on the engine. My only issues are mediocre pulling power and the somewhat crippled sound decoders, both of which have workarounds. I don't know where these models came out with respect to old Chinese models and newer USRA models.
Trainman440 rrebell What is Vstart CV. The 2-6-0 I have starts out at a crawl, no jack rabit starts at all, at least on DCC. Vstart is CV2. It is the minimum voltage applied to the motor when going from speed step 0 to 1. There is also Vmax (CV5)(voltage on motor at top speed) and Vmidpoint (CV6). Im still curious what exact kind of capabilities those Bachmann DCC sound value engines have. I dont have an engine equipped with it, I heard its not really good. But as long as you're satisfied with the detail and performance and sound from them, the 2-8-2 and 4-6-2 are made with equal quality, and shouldn't dissappoint. Of all the manufacturers who have made a non-brass HO USRA 2-8-2 (BLI,MTH,Oriental powerhouse,Trix/Marklin,Athearn Genesis, Bachmann,IHC,Rivarossi/AHM), Bachmann's detail is comparable to Athearn Genesis's mikados/pacifics in terms of detail. With IHC, rivarossi/ahm having less, and BLI,MTH,Trix, etc having more. Charles
Charles, as the owner of two BLI USRA heavy Mikados, and a Genesis Mikado, and someone who is familiar with all these models, the BLI model is not very impressive detail wise.
The BLI Mikados and Pacifics are completely generic, with out even the most basic road specific detail changes.
At least Bachmann was able to vary headlights, trailing trucks and tenders to match or be close to correct for the various road names offered.
Both locos have some cast in place details, and lack other fine details.
While I have not done so yet, I am potentially interested in adding several Bachmann Mikados to my fleet.
Understand, I am not unhappy with the BLI models, but to say they are more detailed than the Bachmann model does not hold up under any objective analysis.
Sheldon
wjstix MisterBeasley Still, the Bachmann Mikado struggles with some short trains of a dozen cars or so. It doesn't have traction tires and is not a heavy engine. It really helped when I replaced my old plastic wheels with metal wheelsets. Are you talking about their recent USRA Mikado, or the old Chinese prototype one Bachmann used to make?
MisterBeasley Still, the Bachmann Mikado struggles with some short trains of a dozen cars or so. It doesn't have traction tires and is not a heavy engine. It really helped when I replaced my old plastic wheels with metal wheelsets.
I think most here are talking about recent sound and value USRA Mikado.
Fair, both have a lot of molded on details, but personally I prefer BLI's more than bachmanns. Bachmann pipes are very clearly molded on, and lacks depth, whereas BLI's has a little more depth, and needs a bit closer inspection to notice that its not.
BLI also doesnt have prototype specific detail. That could be taken as a downside, but I just think of it as them modeling them as-delievered.
BLI's mikados have about as much detail as their M1s, which isnt much.
No a side note, BLI's mech has bearings, sprung drivers, and the works. Bachmanns I presume, dont, like all their other steam.*
*Bachmann non spectrum or non ex-spectrum steam.
Sprung drivers are only useful with bad trackwork, bearings not as valuable as they used to be because of improved manufacture. BLI are $100 more plus the only engine in DCC I have trubble with is a BLI (diesel).
I respectfully disagree. Although the springs BLI uses are a bit stiff, bearings & springs abolutely make engine mechanisms last longer, and run smoother.
Not to promote buying used, but I paid $90 for a BLI light mik, and $65 for a BLI heavy mike.
But yes, if $$$ is an issue, Bachmann's are not bad by any means.
Trainman440 Fair, both have a lot of molded on details, but personally I prefer BLI's more than bachmanns. Bachmann pipes are very clearly molded on, and lacks depth, whereas BLI's has a little more depth, and needs a bit closer inspection to notice that its not. BLI also doesnt have prototype specific detail. That could be taken as a downside, but I just think of it as them modeling them as-delievered. BLI's mikados have about as much detail as their M1s, which isnt much. No a side note, BLI's mech has bearings, sprung drivers, and the works. Bachmanns I presume, dont, like all their other steam. Charles
No a side note, BLI's mech has bearings, sprung drivers, and the works. Bachmanns I presume, dont, like all their other steam.
Charles, be careful using words like "all". There have been Bachmann steam locos with partially sprung driver suspensions, the USRA Heavy 4-8-2 for one,
I put a high importance on those extra prototype details like correct B&O headlight positions, Delta trailing trucks, etc.
ATLANTIC CENTRAL Trainman440 Fair, both have a lot of molded on details, but personally I prefer BLI's more than bachmanns. Bachmann pipes are very clearly molded on, and lacks depth, whereas BLI's has a little more depth, and needs a bit closer inspection to notice that its not. BLI also doesnt have prototype specific detail. That could be taken as a downside, but I just think of it as them modeling them as-delievered. BLI's mikados have about as much detail as their M1s, which isnt much. No a side note, BLI's mech has bearings, sprung drivers, and the works. Bachmanns I presume, dont, like all their other steam. Charles Charles, be careful using words like "all". There have been Bachmann steam locos with partially sprung driver suspensions, the USRA Heavy 4-8-2 for one, I put a high importance on those extra prototype details like correct B&O headlight positions, Delta trailing trucks, etc. Sheldon
I agree, the prototype details is anice touch. Southern versions also have the special southern tender.
I meant all by all bachmann non spectrum engines.
Most of their spectrum engines have certain wheels sprung, like their mountain, the 2-8-0, and their 2-10-0. (atleast those are the ones I own). afaik, the fact that only some are sprung makes me believe that it was more for increasing traction, than it is for creating suspension on the mech.
I'll edit my above post.
MisterBeasley I got mine when they first started marketing the Sound Value models. I like the detailing on the engine. My only issues are mediocre pulling power and the somewhat crippled sound decoders, both of which have workarounds. I don't know where these models came out with respect to old Chinese models and newer USRA models.
The older one seems a lot more detailed... it's unfortunate that the most recent version did not keep up to that standard.
Simon
snjroy The older one seems a lot more detailed... it's unfortunate that the most recent version did not keep up to that standard. Simon
The old model was a spectrum line. The new one is their standard line. It makes sense that the old one was more detailed.
The old one was also very obscure. I remember looking through my free bachmann catalogs back then, wonder what that engine was.
Another thing to keep in mind about less-detailed locomotives is that it's not really all that difficult to scrape-off moulded-on details, such as piping, and simply replace it with pipe bent from wire. I don't always remove moulded-on details unless they bother me, though.However, in cases where you want to represent a real locomotive (especially one for which you have good photos of the prototype) then re-doing the details is almost always necessary, although each of us will have a limit as to how far we wish (or are able) to go with that process.
I found this one, long-sought by a friend, for a project I had offered to do if we ever came across a useful starting point. It turned out to be a second-hand model of a USRA prototype, which was the same as the 10 locos that were used by the CNR (bought, secondhand, from the B&A) to create their T-3-a class of 2-10-2s.
...once I got into the project, I started to learn how to create what was shown in the photos of the real locomotives, and I discovered that it wasn't really all that difficult to do. (I had done some freelance upgrades to steam locomotives in the past, but it was much easier working from photos of real locomotives and being able to trace the path of various piping to understand where it originated and terminated, generally resulting in a more accurate model.)
...the fireman's side of most steam locomotives is often the most interesting....
...and that proved true for this one, too...
I think that I learned a lot from this project, which was a benefit to both my friend, and to myself. Once you manage to accomplish something that you would never have thought to be within your capabilities, you're less likely to be daunted by even more difficult challenges.
Anyone know the lengths of these, my 2-6-0 measures about 9" coupler end to coupler end.
Here's a site with good information on the original Bachmann 2-8-2, which was a model of a Chinese SY class engine. One was bought by Iowa's Boone & Scenic Valley in 1989 to run on fantrips.
http://www.railography.co.uk/info/cn_steam/profiles/sy.htm
Wow, the prototype was produced from 1960 to 1999... Thanks for sharing that link.
PS: That is a beautiful engine Wayne...
Well I bought them. The 4-6-2 had a slight hickup when first put on the tracks but it was gone before it had made one breakin round. Everything fine and even tried the close couple and still no problems. The 2-8-2 had an issue but only when close coupled and I had to shorten the wires by pushing them back in the tender. This engine is going to take some time to break in but is already showing better running, even on my 18" radius curves. It dosn't like a run around that I have a my harbor but that is not the main line, still it is the only one who can't make it. It has alot more power than my 2-6-0 and can take 7 weighted boxcars up my 2 percent grades (proubly could handle more but that ia all I have unpacked at the moment). Also the engine are long. sound is great. Also of note is the bigger engine has a squeak, I will have to run that down but it is already running smothly in just the time it took to write this.
That all sounds great. I am glad the new locomotives are working out.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Got a great deal but never spent that much on an engine before, paid $149 for the smaller and $159 for the larger. But then I am a bottom feeder.
Bachmann modified some of their Bachmann China line tooling to produce stock for the American market.
Their Class 22 hard seat tooling was modified into the coach "William Jackson Palmer" for the Royal Gorge train set, which utilized the same swing and NEM couplings as the Class 22.
The Bachmann SY Mikados lettered for American roads were released in the US for only a brief period in time, and are harder to find than Chinese road names, which can be found on places like Ebay for a reasonable price.
"No one realizes how beautiful it is to travel until he comes home and rests his head on his old, familiar pillow." -Lin Yutang
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All my stuff was american prototype or at least the body was, still not bad for a sound and DCC engine. They say sound value but I have noticed I only use the basic sounds anyway as I have an MTH diesel with all the bells and whistles but only use the horn and lights on that one, though I have tried them all out, don't know about their powered coupler, works well only half the time.