Is it best on old Blue Box cars to cut off the coupler box that is atached to the underframe and install a new Kadee coupler box? If so, do you need to drill through the weight and with what size bit? (Seems like a lot of trouble.) Glue the box to the weight?
Or, is it best to just keep the old box with the metal cover and adjust from there?
Thanks.
Wisdom of the past from the living and the dead:
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/p/166806/1833621.aspx
Llenroc fanIs it best on old Blue Box cars to cut off the coupler box that is atached to the underframe and install a new Kadee coupler box?
Nooooo!!!
I'll liven up Overmods link...
Cheers, the Bear.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
No a #5 has always worked for me. You can still get new metal covers, at least I think so.
The Kadee regular #5 or #148 with the built in centering spring fit the existing Athearn coupler pockets. I now use the #158 Scale Coupler when a car needs a coupler.
When I don’t want accidental uncoupling I use the Kadee #119 Shelf Couplers or the #150 Scale Shelf Couplers with the built in centering spring.
I prefer the Kadee couplers with the built in centering spring. Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
Llenroc fan Is it best on old Blue Box cars to cut off the coupler box that is atached to the underframe and install a new Kadee coupler box? If so, do you need to drill through the weight and with what size bit? (Seems like a lot of trouble.) Glue the box to the weight? Or, is it best to just keep the old box with the metal cover and adjust from there? Thanks.
The old Athearn bluebox coupler pockets fit Kadee #5 couplers, no problem. You will find that the couplers come out a little bit low, but a #6 flat washer under the trucks will bring the couplers right up to the proper height. The metal coupler boxcovers work reasonably well if you use a pair of long nose pliers to bend the side ears ninety degrees to the the bottom.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Llenroc fanIs it best on old Blue Box cars to cut off the coupler box that is atached to the underframe and install a new Kadee coupler box? If so, do you need to drill through the weight and with what size bit? (Seems like a lot of trouble.) Glue the box to the weight?
It is always best to install a Kadee Coupler in a Kadee coupler box.
The linked thread below has all of my methods for assembling and improving Blue Box Athearn boxcars. These are mechanical techniques, not cosmetic.
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/p/271360/3082289.aspx
I hope this helps. Please feel free to ask any questions in either that thread or this one.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Kevin's right. Kadees work best when you use the whole system. The metal-clip built-in Athearn boxes are OK for light use but will eventually give trouble.
We use the new snap-together #242 draft gear box and usually the #148 couplers. Cut away the old draft gear box, drill a hole up into the floor, and thread it for a 2-56 screw. Depending on the car, you still might have to adjust the coupler height so the knuckles line up. You probably won't need to do anything with it for quite a while.
I am already using the Kadee #5s but was frustrated with the couler sagging due to the metal cover. Instead of removing the stock box and installing the standard plastic box (with the required drilling, gluing, etc.) I'm first going to try bending the metal covers as several suggested. Seems simple and straightforward. I feel kind of dunb not having ever thought of it!
There seems to be split on whether to file the truck mount nubs a little to lower the body and allow some movement but still be snug enough. I guess I'll have to try one to see how it works.
Thanks to all for the tips.
This is drifting off topic a bit, but one of our club members has solved our drooping coupler problems.
He drew up a shim to fit inside a Kadee coupler box and cut out a couple of sheets of them on his laser cutter. He made them in a variety of thicknesses but we seem to use .005" the most often. The shim can go above or below the coupler shank.