Novice : Track Isolation.....

[Don Gibson]

BUDGET?!

An Atlas 'Twin' DPDT and pkg. insulated railjoiners is less than $10.
A Shinohara turout is $18.

How much to you spend on lunch?

vs. money spent on sometning that doesn't work??

[jdolan]

To stay within your budget use the turnouts you have and follow the wiring from the site, Its cheaper than buying all new turnouts. It is not hard or expensive to make it work .

[Don Gibson]

SOUNDS LIKE you need 'Power Routing' Switches. Atlas does not make.

REPLACE with PECO or SHINOHARA, OR ......
INSTALL insulated rail joiners to separate the two loops, using ATLAS block controllers.

FRANKLY, I'd suggest you do both.

I now use DPDT toggles to separate track sections, and SHINOHARA turnout's to reduce deraiments..

[tstage]

QUOTE: Originally posted by ukguy
...[the] layout I am working on, which is just a 6'x8' (at least for now until I get carried away and expand it around the walls of my 25'x25' workshop [;)] ). I am keeping things simple for now to avoid frustration and abandonment.

Thanks again and have a great day.

ukguy,

You and I think along the SAME lines. Glad to know that the info was helpful.

Tom

[ukguy]

Thanks to all for the responses, I have reviewed the link provided by tstage (thanks) and it adequately covers all I need for this trial&error/learning layout I am working on, which is just a 6'x8' (at least for now until I get carried away and expand it around the walls of my 25'x25' workshop [;)] ). I am keeping things simple for now to avoid frustration and abandonment.

Thanks again and have a great day.

[IRONROOSTER]

Atlas makes a number of products that make wiring a layout easier. Most hobby shops have them. The NMRA site is good, but a little short on pictures. You might want to pick up a beginner's book which includes simple wiring. The Atlas book will probably show their products.

Enjoy
Paul

[tstage]

ukguy,

Welcome!...from across the pond!

Yes, Isolate your track. Atlas makes insulated joiners that slide onto the rails just like the metal ones do. (They are a bit thicker.) You can then use a controller switch to turn power on or off to that section of track.

Here's the NMRA link that may help you out: http://www.nmra.org/beginner/wiring.html. Look under the heading BASIC WIRING. The rest of the web site is chock full of information.

Tom

[SpaceMouse]

I am a total novice--you have much more experience than I do already, but yes there are insulating connectors that will isolate that switch. Your hobby shop should have them.

[ukguy]

Hello to everyone.

Background : I have recently started construction on my first layout, I am working in HO and have laid my track (several times), it is all atlas code 100. I am still at the VERY steep part of the learning curve and would like some advice if available please.

The track is split level with all the turnouts on the top level. It is basically two ovals, (one inside the other) with two spurs from the outer oval for storage/industry. The two ovals are connected by two sets of back2back switches to enable the loco to switch from the inside to the outside track.

Pic here : www.geocities.com/karldesign/train

My problem is that when I throw the switch all the track remains 'live' . I am not running DCC and therefor cannot run 2 trains simultaneously, or perform any storage or switching whilst a second train is running as I had hoped. I remembered from wayyyyyyyyyy back when I was a kid in the UK that the switch controlled the power to sidings or sections of track, but as this does not appear to be the case I cannot 'park' a loco down a siding as this section remains powered.

Questions : Can I easily adapt my atlas switches ( which I unfortunately paid out the but for ) to isolate the track and direct the power only in the direction of the rails when thrown or will I need to not install a rail connector near to the switch and have a break in the track wired to an on/off switch on my control panel, if so are there any plastic or non-conductive rail connectors I can use instead of the metal ones in addition to the manual 'powerthrough' switch as I am worried about derailments and have already had several sleepless nights resolving constant derailment issues.

I am modeling on a strict budget and DCC is not an option, maybe sometime down the line... also comlicated wiring diagrams and even simple ones send my head spinning, a simple two wires across a break with a switch on the other end is just about the limit of my electical expertise.

Any help and advice will be gratefully recieved.

Many Thanks.