RIP...Lil Guy bites the big one.

[Anonymous]

Aww, that is awesome![^]

[SpaceMouse]

That's right nice of you.

[fiatfan]

After following the recent saga of Lil Guy I went down to the train room and dug out the box of old stuff. Here is what I found:



If you want to contact me off line, I will mail it to you.

Tom

[mcouvillion]

Chip,

Sorry to see Lil Guy in pieces. If you don't think you are yet up to the task of trying to fix him, ask the guys at the layout you run on who would be most likely to help. You could get someone with the experience you need to find a clever way to fix it and get him running "good as new" in short order. Sometimes it pays to not get in too big a hurry to fix something. Often, the right answer takes a little time to come to you.

I looked at your picture of the damage and I bet I could fix it pretty quick. Could you use a small bolt with a locking (fiber) nut in the cab? I would be very reluctant to expand the width of the hole to re-thread it, but it may be easier to drill all the way through and just mount it with a bolt (and sleeve to take up the slack between the bolt and truck).

When you build up your junk box, also keep a junk screw box. You would be amazed at the funky screws you run across over time. Strip all the useable hardware off anything you get ready to throw away (old radios, CD players, etc.). You will build up a sizeable collection in no time.

Mark C.

[rrinker]

QUOTE: Originally posted by tstage

Randy,

That's great! Don't you also have to replace the headlight when you install the decoder? (oop...question answered in 13 of 14.)

On the topic of headlights. Randy, have you ever tried replacing the weak incondescent bulbs in the P2K S1 for brighter LED's? Is that possbile? How much of a headache would you think that would be to replace them? The one issue that comes to mind is: Do the indondescent bulbs look more prototypical? Thanks!

Tom

As you saw, no, not with the decoder I used. That's the same one I used in my GP-7's so I didn't have to change the bulbs. It's really not the best choice for the S1, it's too big, hence the frame filing. A TCS M1 would have been a MUCH better choice, but then you would have to change the bulbs, or use a resistor.
LEDs would not be hard to add, you just have to add a resistor. 1K is save for pretty much any normal LED. Those bright white LEDs don;t look right, too bluish. They're fine for modern locos. The "Golden White" ones look like old style incandescents. Somewhere buried on Loy's Toys web site is a picture showing a line up of locos with regular bulbs, bright white, golden white, and sunny white LEDs so you can compare.

--Randy

[rrinker]

QUOTE: Originally posted by SpaceMouse

Uh Randy, ....uh you wouldn't...u... you know...like ....want to do ....uh...a Bachman...uh...4-8-4... uh Photo Essay. Uh, I'll supply the 4-8-4 .

Well I DO have to do a Bachmann Plus 2-8-0, which should be the same but smaller. As soon as my father in law gets around to deciding which locos he wants me to convert first. Don;t expect it anytime soon. But I'm certainly willing to give it a go, I'm pretty handy when it comes to mechanical and electrical things, it's the scenery that I hate... [:)]

--Randy

[tstage]

Randy,

That's great! Don't you also have to replace the headlight when you install the decoder? (oop...question answered in 13 of 14.)

On the topic of headlights. Randy, have you ever tried replacing the weak incondescent bulbs in the P2K S1 for brighter LED's? Is that possbile? How much of a headache would you think that would be to replace them? The one issue that comes to mind is: Do the indondescent bulbs look more prototypical? Thanks!

Tom

[SpaceMouse]

Uh Randy, ....uh you wouldn't...u... you know...like ....want to do ....uh...a Bachman...uh...4-8-4... uh Photo Essay. Uh, I'll supply the 4-8-4 .

[SpaceMouse]

QUOTE: Originally posted by rrinker

Don't worry, it's easy. I have pics of decodering my S1 in a webshots gallery linked from my web page. haha the internet portion of this is more complicated than the actual decoder install.. [:D]

--Randy

It is a real service to provide instructions such as these. If I was any good with a soldering iron, I could do it with these instructions. (Heck I know I'm going to try it.)

PS: Here's a Photo Essay I did on slicking up a Ruger Vaquero for Cowboy competition.

http://www.tonytinhorn.com/Ruger.html

[rrinker]

Don't worry, it's weasy. I have pics of decodering my S1 in a webshots gallery linked from my web page. haha the internet portion of this is more complicated than the actual decoder install.. [:D]

--Randy

[tstage]

The new Proto. Check Tony's Train Exchange for details. Here's the direct link about the problem and the solution:

http://www.tonystrains.com/tonystips/2001/120601.htm

Let me know how you like the new switcher, when it comes in...

Tom

[SpaceMouse]

QUOTE: Originally posted by tstage

Chip,

You won't regret it. It will make a lovely bride for Lil' Guy and you a happy man! Do give us a heads up when you decide to add the decoder. The motor does need to be isolated from the frame BEFORE adding the decoder or the decoder will go POOF!

Tom

Are you talking about the new Proto or Lil Guy?

[tstage]

Chip,

You won't regret it. It will make a lovely bride for Lil' Guy and you a happy man! Do give us a heads up when you decide to add the decoder. The motor does need to be isolated from the frame BEFORE adding the decoder or the decoder will go POOF!

Tom

[SpaceMouse]

QUOTE: Originally posted by tstage

Chiiiiiiiiiiiiip...............

Proto 2000...............

ALCO S1 switcher...............

DCC-ready...............

runs like a dreeeeeeeeeeeeam...............

$29.99...............

Trainworld.com...............

Jetrock would approooooooove...............

it's calling your naaaaaaaaame...............

I just got one--PRR $39.99.

[SpaceMouse]

QUOTE: Originally posted by murrieta

While I like the SW-1 it seems like going around undecorated is almost like running around with no clothes on. I'm half tempted to offer a free custom paint job on the engine so it can assume an identity and number.

I ordered the Tuscan Red last week. It'll be joining the PRR as soon as it gets out of the hospital.

By the way, I have a 6 track passenger staion called Creekside Staion that is becoming my MRR club home base. It is in serious disrepair, but hey. He might not get out much, but Lil guy will be joining the E7.

[Anonymous]

While I like the SW-1 it seems like going around undecorated is almost like running around with no clothes on. I'm half tempted to offer a free custom paint job on the engine so it can assume an identity and number.

[JPowell]

Chip,
Lil' Guy's in my thoughts and prayers. I hope he comes out from the operation workin' like a brand new champ!
As the rest have said, please, keep us posted as to how the surgery turned out and of Lil' Guy's prognosis.
JP

[tstage]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Jetrock

The Alco S1 is your friend, but it wasn't born until 1939...so unless you've decided to go modern, chip, it might not be the loco you want...it is SWEET, though. runs like a dream.

Yep. Neither is the E7...or Lil' Guy, for that matter. I thought the layout was turning out to be somewhat ecclectic anyhow.

Chip, give Lil' Guy your best efforts then figure out what you want to do. Keep us posted on the outcome....

Tom

[SpaceMouse]

The engine and the drive seem to be fine. It is just a matter of attatching the truck. I need to find or make a spacer/washer and I need to find a screw that will work.

Lil Guy is not dowh for the count--just a little under the weather.

[Jetrock]

The Alco S1 is your friend, but it wasn't born until 1939...so unless you've decided to go modern, chip, it might not be the loco you want...it is SWEET, though. runs like a dream.

I got a new pulse-power momentum powerpack and tried it out on my S1. The thing moves so slow I had to sit there and stare at it until I realized it was moving at an infinitesimal crawl...Magnificent!

[Anonymous]

Chip:

From your picture showing the truck damage it's very unusuall in a crossing accident for a car to do that much damage to a loco.

From what you have told us about "lil guy" it's time for the parts box as the newer locos are so much better then the older ones.

I still have the Mantua 0-4-0 that my dad bought me back in 1952. I bet that locos been painted a zillion times and taken apart just about as many. It sits on the shelves with some of the brass that I've been able to purchase over the years. It's on its third motor and second set of drivers and bushings. One pilot step is broken off but it still brings back good memories.

I'm very sorry for your loss
Bob

[tomwatkins]

Chip, They are all good ideas, so you have lots of ways you could go. I will say the P2K switchers are excellent and very inexpensive these days. I'm sorry it happened. The sinking feeling in one's stomach is no fun.
Tom Watkins

[SpaceMouse]

QUOTE: Originally posted by tstage

Chiiiiiiiiiiiiip...............

Proto 2000...............

ALCO S1 switcher...............

DCC-ready...............

runs like a dreeeeeeeeeeeeam...............

$29.99...............

Trainworld.com...............

Jetrock would approooooooove...............

it's calling your naaaaaaaaame...............

The Rock would approve...oh my oh my oh my oh my oh my .

What time do they open? !!!!!!

[Anonymous]

I'd agree with the suggestion of adding a pair of SPUDs or similar powered trucks, assuming repairing the original drive system doesn't work - this would leave space for sound and DCC as suggested, you could also fit a cab interior. Fill all the other available space with ballast and you'll have a smooth-running switcher that will pull anything you can couple to it (and I mean anything!)

I had a Hornby 0-4-0 meet a similar fate when I was about 8 or 9 - younger bro trod on it and broke the chimney off, I hung on to the surviving parts and last year was able to rebuild it with a new bodyshell and frame bought from a spares supplier, now has pride of place on the shelf even if it is a bit like the old hammer of legend (three new heads and four new handles, same hammer...)

[tstage]

Chiiiiiiiiiiiiip...............

Proto 2000...............

ALCO S1 switcher...............

DCC-ready...............

runs like a dreeeeeeeeeeeeam...............

$29.99...............

Trainworld.com...............

Jetrock would approooooooove...............

it's calling your naaaaaaaaame...............

[Jetrock]

Or...he could get a power truck (like a NWSL PDT or a Tenshodo SPUD), stick the sideframes on the power truck, get rid of the rubberband drivetrain on the other truck, and have a nice little smooth-running switcher that won't exceed Mach 1.

And, with a power truck, one could get rid of the motor inside the body entirely--leaving plenty of room for sound and a DCC decoder.

Let me tell you about another model railroader's tradition, SpaceMouse: It's called "the parts box." This box holds all the extra pieces from kits you didn't use, broken components from things that got stepped on/sat on, interesting looking plastic widgets that you know will come in handy someday, and other bits. If you don't have one, start one, and put Lil Guy in a place of honor inside it. Someday you'll get back to it, as a more experienced model railroader, and resurrect it from the dead...

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by JPM335

Tom has a good idea. Retap the hole and use a slightly larger screw

You can also use plumbers tape wraped around the the original screw or install
cotton fibers, off cotton balls and tighten

[tstage]

Chip,

Make sure you tap the screw hole for the original thread size FIrST. If that doesn't work out THEN go one size up, if need be.

Tom

[dave9999]

Looks like lil' guy is on his way to train heaven.

I can see the tombstone:

Here lies Lil' Guy
Rest In Pieces