FRRYKid How do I light the loco if the stock light doesn't work?
I prefer to relocate the bulbs in my Athearn locomotives so they do not light the cab, but just the headlight.
You just need one wire to the frame, and one wire to that metal clip on the trucks or motor.
I am going to try LEDs on my next one, but like everything else right now, that will be a way into the future.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
SeeYou190 Have you tried removing the headlight bracket and see if the problem persists? -Kevin
Have you tried removing the headlight bracket and see if the problem persists?
I couldn't slide the bracket out but I did bent the assembly so that it wasn't contacting anything. That seems to have solved it. Now the next question: How do I light the loco if the stock light doesn't work?
I can't answer the flywheel question.
Unfortunately shortly after I wrote that post, I found that the drive runs fine but when I put the shell on it still shorts out. I even tried removing the front coupler in case that was causing problems. Didn't work. If it helps any this is an Athearn BB SD40-2. The only thing I can think of is that something is catching when the shell is attached. Just out of curiosity, what is the correct diameter of the flywheel for a stock 40-2? I had one other drive (not a 40-2) that had flywheel that were too big for the shell.
FRRYKidThe piece of metal that was laid down to feed power on Athearn BB frames was a bit long and seemed to be shorting the engine out. Removed it and the engine works just fine.
Good job locating the cause of your problems.
Good find!
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
FRRYKid Came up wth yet another confusing one: I power an engine up with its shell on and I get a short. I take the shell off and it works just fine. The only area that I can come up with it that the front coupler is touching the plow and doing something but it doesn't touch anywhere else.
Came up wth yet another confusing one: I power an engine up with its shell on and I get a short. I take the shell off and it works just fine. The only area that I can come up with it that the front coupler is touching the plow and doing something but it doesn't touch anywhere else.
Finally got that one figured out too: A minor defect in the frame. The piece of metal that was laid down to feed power on Athearn BB frames was a bit long and seemed to be shorting the engine out. Removed it and the engine works just fine.
It sounds like things are going in the right direction.
I finally had the opportunity to check the paperweight engine this evening. Checked continuity with the electrical tester and reassembled everything. Of course, now the engine runs. The frame work on the other engines still awaits.
Edit: Now the pulsing engine has quit pulsing as well. I've also discovered that a few more of my engines need help, including a pair that I figure are older than I am.
Before I lube the gears in the trucks, I disassemble them completely, inspect each gear; sand every tooth and the sides of the gear with 1000 grit sandpaper. When the truck is re-assembled, it rolls like a Hot Wheels car. A tiny amount of Labell grease, and you are good to go.
I also hardwire the electrical connection between the trucks and the top clip of the motor.
Do you have a way to apply voltage to the locomotive through probes? If so, isolate the motor from the chassis bu disconnecting the upper steel strip and put voltage directly to the motor brish connections.
Sorry I cannot take new pictures. These show me working on a brass locomotive, but they are the best example pictures I have.
That assessment is correct. The only other idea I have is to replace the motor with a spare unit that I have. (As I have so many BB units, spare parts seemed a good idea.)
On locomotive #2, am I understanding you replaced both brushes on the motor, and now the motor will not run at all?
I seem to have most of the problems solved. Due to the nature of the 20s I think two of need to see the machine shop to rework the rear parts of the frames a little. However I've come up with two new ones.
1) The engine that was growing like the dinosaur now seems to be surging at points in the cycle. (The power increases and decreases and I'm not moving the power one iota.) I am using a high-quality pack with a well built wired throttle.
2) On one of the other engines, the brushes were sparking even after I cleaned the commutator. I thought replacing the brushes might help. (I picked up a few sets with springs for just such a need.) I changed them out, reassembled everything but now the engine is nothing but a paperweight.
Any ideas on those would be welcomed.
SeeYou190I think "moly" is short for molybdenum, which is a metal, so it makes sense it would be conductive.
FRRYKidSounds as if some disposable gloves or a toothpick might be a good idea with the grease.
I think a toothpick would make a fine applicator if you decide that works for you.
rrinker I use the Labelle products made for model trains. <SNIP> the grease comes in a tube you can squeeze small amounts out of.
Yes, Labelle is the brand grease I use also.
Great stuff.
rrinkerYou don't have to schmutz up all the gears, a little bit on the worm will distribute across all the rest.
Exactly, you just need a little somewhere in the gear train, and operation will spread it around for you.
I don't use an applicator, just a small amount from the tube is fine.
BigDaddyMoly and graphite are conductive.
That never occured to me. I think "moly" is short for molybdenum, which is a metal, so it makes sense it would be conductive.
Moly and graphite are conductive.
Moly grease is dirty to work with. I have not used it for MR purposes. It has some interesting properties, but not really relevant to our hobby.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I don;t mess with grease or oil meant for other things, I use the Labelle products made for model trains. They have a light oil for motor bearings, a heavier gear oil you can use on the gears, or a grease. The light and heavy oils come with needle point applicators, the grease comes ina tube you cna squeeze small amounts out of. You don't have to schmutz up all the gears, a little bit on the worm will distribute across all the rest.
High pitched whining is either the commutator needing cleaning, or the motor bearings being dry.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Gloves, definitely. Toothpick, why not, although a swab might be better if you take care not to string any cotton in there by mistake.
Remember as he said to run the unpowered truck around to spread the grease liberally and make sure enough is distributed. Unlike with oil, I think you want a fair amount on there. Then run in under power for a while to make sure everything is properly aligned as well as lubricated.
And don't make the mistake of thinking when it has been done with quality products you can ignore further maintenance for a long while. Set up a PM schedule, and inspect not only the gears but things like commutator, brushes and wheel treads on a regular and diligent basis.
Sounds as if some disposable gloves or a toothpick might be a good idea with the grease.
FRRYKidThe only moly grease I found was a can. Would you recommend using my fingers to grease the gears or a pipe cleaner?
Applying grease to gears is pretty simple. If you get a little in there somewhere, over the next few revolutions of the gear set the teeth will take it everywhere else. Don't overthink this.
The grease I use comes in a squeeze tube that works just fine.
When I assemble an Athearn Blue Box diesel locomotive truck I put a dab of grease on one of the idler gears as I go. Then before I install the worm gear I push the locomotive back and forth on my work surface, and all is greased that easy.
It does not take much grease.
mbinsewiWhere the trucks attach to the frame is another part of electrical path on BB drives. Both surfaces need to be clean and free of any oil or grease.
+1
Where the trucks attach to the frame is another part of electrical path on BB drives. Both surfaces need to be clean and free of any oil or grease.
Mike.
My You Tube
What I use is one of those mini grease guns that uses equally 'mini' cartridges with name-brand automotive or bicycle greased in them. I put in a good Teflon-bearing green grease (or something researched to be plastic-compatible for 'those' situations) and use a thin dispensing nozzle instead of a lock fitting on the hose; you could easily use a needle for really small requirements, or pump (or pack) a shot of grease into a syringe with needle and use that.
Once grease is on your hands it will start to be everywhere, starting with the places you most want it NOT to be, and it may take forever to get the last of it off without using skin-unfriendly technology. Better to do it all with the absolute minimum of wipe-off or outside 'contamination' with stray product...
P.S. you don't need "EP" formulation for most of not all these gears and bearings... model railroad pressures are slight and gear crowning issues minimal at most.
pt714 I would clean the motors and gear assemblies, all the way from the commutators to the wheels. I did a quick forum search for a good step-by-step breakdown; here's a recent one that might help (credit to Dstarr). Phil
I would clean the motors and gear assemblies, all the way from the commutators to the wheels. I did a quick forum search for a good step-by-step breakdown; here's a recent one that might help (credit to Dstarr).
Phil
The only moly grease I found was a can. Would you recommend using my fingers to grease the gears or a pipe cleaner?
SeeYou190 About the GP-9s, have you had the trucks off both of them at the same time lately? If they both resulting in having have two front trucks on one and two rear trucks on the other, that would make both of them have short circuits. -Kevin
About the GP-9s, have you had the trucks off both of them at the same time lately?
If they both resulting in having have two front trucks on one and two rear trucks on the other, that would make both of them have short circuits.
I doubled checked the hoseeker site for assembly instructions and that's exactly what I did. As i have to go to work, I left myself a note so that I remember what the problem is when I get another chance to fix it.
If they both resulted in having have two front trucks on one and two rear trucks on the other, that would make both of them have short circuits.
I went to try to check the 9s with the wire trick. In the process, I discovered a much bigger problem. They both seem to have a short circuit somewhere in the mix. They tripped an overload in my power pack. Back to the drawing board. That's the confusing part. The only thing that is non-standard about the engines is the fuel tank was made bigger to match the prototype. I used JB Weld which doesn't conduct electricity.
I recently repowered several of my old Blue Box locos using Mabuchi FK-280SA-14200 dual shaft motors. I used 1/8" OD styrene tubing with the ID carefully reamed out to 2 mm to adapt the original Athearn flywheels to the 2 mm Mabuchi motor shafts. The motors were shimmed to the correct height using sheet styrene and hot glued in place. Very easy remotor project. All of these converted locos now run smoothly and QUIETLY around my layout with smoother starts and low speed operation under 5 scale miles per hour. Best of all, these motors are available on E-Bay for under $2.50 each (plus shipping).
Hornblower