Couplers for Athearn FP45

[Anonymous]

I recently got an Athearn Blue Box FP45, and boy is it one honey of locomotive[8D]. It runs smoothly, makes almost no gear noise (it does grind a bit when at higher speeds), and I think- look, I'm rambling again. Let's get to the point shall we?

Since I know mounting a Kadee #5 on this brute would be extremely difficult, I bought a pack of Kadee #38s. ACK! So many parts, so little knowledge, I'm afraid. So I just settled for EZ mates. But these hang low and don't make for a very firm couple. Is there a Kadee that will fit this beast?

Jonathon[8D]

[nfmisso]

Yes, #38, see: http://www.kadee.com/conv/pdf/ath10.pdf

[AntonioFP45]

Hello BigBoy

Nfmisso hit it on the mark with that link!

Now for the obvious question: What road name is your Cowl in? Any plans to add Gyra lights, DCC, lighting effects? See Thru fans? Other goodies?

How about sound? Plenty of room! (O.K, I know I'm going off the deep end)[:p][:p]

Cheers! [:)][:D][8D][4:-)][C=:-)][C):-)][tup]

[Anonymous]

Antonio, I'm delighted you asked that question! I plan on getting an undecorated FP45, super detail it to match ATSF #92 in the 1990s (such as adding an amber warning light, air conditioner, ect.). I will then have a custom painter paint it in the ATSF Superfleet scheme. Then maybe I'll see if someone can put in directional LEDs. After that it'll be off to Tony's Train Exchange to get DCC and sound! I can barely wait![:D]

[Anonymous]

Antonio, My current FP45 is in the ATSF Superfleet scheme, #92. I have been told this is a really rare Athearn so I will pretty much only run this on DC layouts and display it. The next #92 will be for DCC layouts.

[WSOR 3801]

I have mounted Kadee #5 on mine. Drill no. 50 thru the frame where the little divot is, tap (cut threads) 2-56, screw it on in the #5 box. Then get out your Kadee coupler gauge (I sure hope you have one) and see if it matches. It will either be right on or too low. You could file mount to raise the coupler, or get a #27 with the underset shank. That will get the coupler up to where it should be.

When you get the couplers figured out, add 9 oz. of lead (no more, I've tried) to the shell. Pulls real good then.

[AntonioFP45]

QUOTE: Originally posted by 4884bigboy

Antonio, My current FP45 is in the ATSF Superfleet scheme, #92. I have been told this is a really rare Athearn so I will pretty much only run this on DC layouts and display it. The next #92 will be for DCC layouts.

Hello Amigo!

I'm glad to see another modeler that's a big fan of the Santa Fe "Big Jacks". I'm also planning on installing sound in mine. One big advantage is that compared to hood units, these husky engines are roomy! The downside is that being Athearn Blue Boxes, they're noisy! So before I install sound, each one will get the "Pearl Drops" polishing treatment in the trucks, re-powered with the low amp Mashima motors (with sound decoders the lower the amps the better), and I will install "See Thru" radiator fans and dynamic brake fans on the roof as the speakers will be facing upward. I'm also installing "Gyra lights" as I'm modeling the 1968 version. Though not protoypically correct, I'll be installing the K5La horn sound just because I like it!

I feel you should know that even though Athearn stopped producing them temporarily (so Athearn says) I have several of these units. Got them off of Ebay so they're not that rare. Since I won my last one 5 months ago, at least 10 more have shown up on ebay since then! Most were new! If you want more, keep checking Ebay as they keep popping up from time to time! Don't make the mistake of bidding early if you find one you like as this starts "raising the price early". I usually wait til the last 3 minutes and then bid. I've won all of my ebay bids this way.

BTW: Don't ever get a LIMA or Model Power FP45. IMHO, very Cheesy and a waste of money!

Stick with the Athearns!

Cheers, Peace and High Greens! [:)][:D][8D][;)][8)]

[Anonymous]

Antonio,

I ment that the #92 unit was rare, according to my Athearn book.

As for your sound idea, a K5LA was exactly what I was thinking! The real ATSF FP45s had Nathan P3s, a horn I don't particularly like. But a K5LA would be grand!

As for detailing, as I said I will be detailing an undec unit to match #92 in the 1990s. That means it'll have an amber warning light, air conditioner, ect.

Your see through Q fans are a great idea! I had often wondered how I would be able to hear the sound from the outside (although I have heard that a few modelers don't have any holes for speakers and they can still hear them fine). I also like your Mashima motor idea, although my current FP45 is pretty quiet and only "grinds" at higher speeds.

What is your email Antonio? We can chat more through email instead of clogging up the forums with our babbeling![:D][;)]

Jonathon

Edit: P.S. I would NEVER buy a Lima or Model Power FP45![xx(] They can't match the Athearn.

[Anonymous]

Antonio, do you have any suggestions for Q fans?

[Don Gibson]

KD's 30 series are excellent, but takes some practice. I buy extra springs;

ATHEARN's coupler pocket's locos are low. Try the Uderset Shank version - I believe it's a 37 or 39.

[AntonioFP45]

QUOTE: Originally posted by 4884bigboy

Antonio, do you have any suggestions for Q fans?

Actually, these older units like the FP45 don't use "Q" fans. Q stands for "Quiet", which was mandated by the government years later so that diesel locomotives were less noisy. I dont' remember the year, but it was either the late 80s or early 90s. Some of the guys here probably know.

Anyway, what you want are the standard radiator fans that were used on the prototypes. I took a look at some prototype photos that I saved from www.railpictues.net. I have one overhead shot view of Santa Fe FP45 #90 from the fireman's side.

In the Walther's Catalog on page 954 the radiator fan that, IMHO, resembles those on the FP45s the closest is Cannon & Company part number 191-1705. This is the same fan used on the EMD SD45, which is the F45 and FP45's sister. (An F45 is an SD45 with a "streamlined cowl body", just as an FP45 is an SDP45....etc.[;)]

For the Dynamic Brake fans (the two fans immedietly behind the cab) you can use Smokey Valley #676-140.

If you intend to install these "See Thru" fans, go slow! I VERY CAREFULLY drill out the molded on fans on the FP45. A drill press is preferable but a small, standard electric drill works too. I start with a small drill bit, like a 9/64. Drill a hole in the center of each fan. Then come back with bigger drill bits until the fan cover is "almost completely gone. Then come back with sharp cutters and cut off the remaining sides of the fan housing to the floor of the roof. Block sand the area smooth starting with 280 grit , followed by 320 grit, then wet sanding with 600 grit to a smooth finish. Mask off the sides of the locomotive, apply primer and paint on the roof as needed. My paint recommendation is the Badger ModelFlex as it's thinned and ready to apply out of the bottle. Best to use with an airbrush. Goes on smooth at 25 to 30 p.s.i depending on your airbrush.

Go ahead and paint your replacement fans. Once dry, glue them in place and you're done. [:D][;)]

[Anonymous]

Thanks Antonio! What sound decoder are you planning on putting in yours? I'm planning on the Soundtraxx EMD Second Generation with the K5LA horn.

[AntonioFP45]

Same as you. EMD second generation with the K5 horn.

I'm fortunate that my best friend is also a computer technology expert. Since I'm a DCC newbie, he strongly recommended to me that I: "Take it slow" and start with just installing standard DCC decoders in locomotives, get used to programming them, troubleshoot problems that occasionally crop up and get the general swing of it as it is challenging for newbies.

Metaphorically speaking, the learning stage is something like the average American going from driving a Volkswagon Beetle to a 200 mph Lambhorgini! Takes some getting used to all those extra features! But it's not incredibly difficult either

After a whille of running DCC, then proceeding with installing the additional Soundtraxx DSX decoder for sound. As he pointed out, even in an Athearn FP45, space for a motor decoder, a sound decoder, a speaker, and a baffle is at a premium!

Hopefully the new Soundtraxx Tsunami will be on the market by then so that only one decoder will be needed since it's a sound/motor decoder.

One thing that I'm looking forward to on Tsunami is the horn's "Reverb" feature. This should really be nice in conveying the effect of "distance"!

Cheers and High Greens!

[Anonymous]

Excuse my lack of knowledge, I'm a DCC newbie myself, but what is a baffle and a reverb?

[AntonioFP45]

QUOTE: Originally posted by 4884bigboy

Excuse my lack of knowledge, I'm a DCC newbie myself, but what is a baffle and a reverb?

Sorry!

O.K, a baffle is your speaker enclosure. Without baffling, your speaker would sound very toy-like. Just like home stereo speakers. If you ever take a speaker out if it's enclosure you'll notice that you'll notice your bass response dissappears. Some talented modelers have been able to construct speaker enclosures out of styrene, others use 35mm film canisters as enclosures. In some situations modelers have been able to use the locomotive's body as a baffle. Good baffling is critical to quality sound![;)]

Click on this link in your spare time. Take your time and read about the various types of installations: http://www.litchfieldstation.com/s/i/ho/hods/hods.html

I understand now why my friend cautioned me about "diving headlong" into sound before getting a good grasp on the DCC fundamentals. Modelers that are "electronically challenged" (like me) could become discouraged when difficulties come up if they don't do their homework first.

Reverb.
Basically the effect of sound bouncing off of flat surfaces. An echo. As a very active train watcher in my teens, I always noticed that the sounds of train horns in town would bounce off of buildings. Was a cool effect![8D] This is why we can hear prototype locomotive horns from miles away in urban areas. The new Soundtraxx Tsunami is supposed to have this effect and allow you to control it.

[Anonymous]

Thanks Antonio! I too go train watching a lot but there's really nothing where I go that the locomotive sounds can reverberate off. Sounds great though! I don't know if I'll be able to wait for the Tsunami decoders though, I want to get started right away![:p]

[Anonymous]

Antonio, are you planning on installing directional LEDs in your FP45s? Also, what is a Gyra light?

[AntonioFP45]

QUOTE: Originally posted by 4884bigboy

Thanks Antonio! I too go train watching a lot but there's really nothing where I go that the locomotive sounds can reverberate off. Sounds great though! I don't know if I'll be able to wait for the Tsunami decoders though, I want to get started right away![:p]

I understand your eagerness, butI again, I suggest that you take it slow!! Read and study what's involved. My friend strongly recommends that modelers buy the DCC Fundamentals book from Digitrax. It's RED in color. An excellent book for newbies and pros alike. I don't remember the exact title, but it covers DCC thoroughly. BTW: did you check out the link I posted? There's a lot of work involved with sound installation.

I think I know how you feel, believe it or not! Even at my age, I was also VERY excited about sound since I was fortunate enough as a teen to live have lived near rail lines, yards, and a passenger station. Most of the sounds that I heard have been "burned" into my memory and even back then I used to wi***hat those sounds could somehow be produced inside of HO Locomotives. That was in 1977!

The point I'm trying to make:
I've been waiting 28 years! Now that quality sound for HO (and N) is available, I don't mind waiting a few more months or even a year (as my budget allows) to learn how to correctly use this technology. If your family is supportive, give it a shot and do your homework and see if they'll buy you the book. You can e-mail Digitrax to get the correct name. Also, if you happen to have any friends or even a teacher that is an "electronics shark", share the DCC info with that person. Perhaps he or she can wind up being quite helpful as you'll definitly need to know how to use a meter to check current, voltage, and resistence as well as trouble shooting.

Take care, amigo![:D][8D]
Cheers!