As it seems my bridge track is still in shipping and no telling when it will arrive, I figured nows a good time to weather my rollingstock and a few locos. What are some good practices to use without an airbrush. Ive seen videos of people using washes but never seem to tell how they make them. Thanks for any tips/suggestions!
I only occassionally use the airbrush for weathering.
Chalks, Pastels, Washes, and Dot Filters are my other methods.
This is where those dollar-bin broken train cars come in handy. Buy $20.00 worth and practice.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
SeeYou190 This is where those dollar-bin broken train cars come in handy. Buy $20.00 worth and practice. -Kevin
Washes, if using acrylics add water to the color until you get the desired wash (Lightness) you want. Trial and error.
As to weathering itself. No matter what technique you find that works best for you, have a photo of the prototype piece you are trying to match. YMMV.
TomO
Ringo58Ive seen videos of people using washes but never seem to tell how they make them.
You can make a wash, using water-based paints, by thinning them with water, then add a drop of dish detergent to the mix to decrease the surface tension of the paint.
Use a flat chisel-type brush, and apply the thinned paint to one side of the car-body, minus the underbody (I prefer to brush from the bottom up) then set the car upright on a couple of paper towels. The wash will migrate towards the lower edge of the car, and if the carbody has attached sill steps, use either the brush or another paper towel to siphon-off the excess liquid as it collects along the sidesill. Keep siphoning off the excess, as the wash on the upper portion of the car begins to dry.
Once the entire side of the car has dried, repeat the procedure on the other side of the car.If you wish to have the car even dirtier-looking, simply repeat the process as each side dries.
Most cars have corrugated ends of some type, and the paint-wash will collect atop each rib. Use the brush to siphon-off the excess, as otherwise it will dry with a very visible line where the excess has dried.
Another option for weathering is pastels. I use oil-based ones, available at art supply stores. They're inexpensive, so get a good selection of browns, and oranges, along with a few greys and, of course, black.I simply rub them over some fairly coarse sandpaper, then dump the resultant dust into a convenient container - I use the bubble-pack portion from small items sold in such packages.I use cheap brushes to apply it to the car...simply pick some up with the brush, and apply it wherever you think each particular colour would be appropriate. It's helpful if you have prototype photos from which to work.If you accidentally get too much in the wrong place, dump off the excess, then use a clean cloth or paper towel to remove the rest (as best you can - the oil-based stuff does had a tendency to grip flat-painted surfaces).While my rolling stock gets handled regularly as it cycles on- and off-layout, I don't bother overspraying the weathering with a matte finish, as it's pretty durable as-is.
You can also use chalks for weathering, but since they don't adhere all that well, they should be oversprayed with a clear matte finish. That will also lessen the intensity of the weathering effects.
While you've entitled your thread "Weathering without an airbrush", I'd still recommend that you buy and learn to use one, as they're a very versatile tool for weathering....not essential, of course, but the more tools in your toolbox, the more you'll be able to accomplish.For weathering using an airbrush, the paint needs to be thinner than what you would use for painting. Rather than waste paint on models, even cheap ones, I simply got some empty cardboard boxes from the supermarket, dismantled them and used the non-printed sides for practicing.The booklet which came with my Paasche VL suggested that a beginner practice make dots, as small and distinct as possible (no spatter or runs), and when that became easy and consistent, the next step was to connect the dots with lines as thin and straight as you could possibly make them. I went through lots of cardboard before I could make the results look like they had been done with a pen and straightedge, but it was well-worth the effort.
Here's a method I used early-on in my early days of airbrush weathering, with each cardstock masking device labelled to suit the particular carbody for which it was suitable...
This masking device, made from sheet styrene, is for making wheel-splash weathering on the ends of cars and locomotives...
...and some examples of airbrushed weathering, applied over washes...
No washes on this car, but it does show the airbrushed wheelspray, using the masking device, on the car's end...
...another, using only the airbrush...
Here are some Accurail boxcars, all painted the same colour, then weathered, to different degrees, using oil-based pastels, followed-up with some light airbrush applications...
...another, mostly pastels, with a little airbushed weathering, too...
These two were originally weathered rather lightly using an airbrush, but I later added some more weathering. using pastels, as seen here...
In some cases, brush-applied paint can be useful for weathering, too, using either thinned paint or dry-brushing (brush with most of the paint wiped-off)
...and you can also use a brush and several colours of paint (it's often not necessary to clean the brush between colours, other than perhaps a wiping of the bristles on a paper towel or cloth) when aging ties or the wooden decks of flatcars or gondola floors...
This one got the brushed-paint treatment, followed by some pastel rust...
...while this floor was brush-painted, with the "rust" airbrushed on the interior of the sides and ends, plus a little at the edges of the floor...
For weathering, there are lots of choices, so don't be afraid to try new ones.
Wayne
Very nice looking weathering, I will definetly be in the market for an airbrush in a few months! Thank you also for the tips, I think I'm going to be making a stop at walmart tonight and see if they have pastels
I like to use powdered charcoal applied with a 1/4" or so brush over the entire car, then (unless I'm doing a very dirty car) I use a soft paper towel to remove some of the charcoal from the sides (the roof and ends of cars get more exhaust / smoke from the engine, so tend to be dirtier than the sides.) On a steel car, I leave the charcoal around the rivet strips, since it seems on real cars these areas collect dirt. On a woodsided car, the charcoal tends to stay between the boards. Even if wiped off, it tones down the paint and lettering of the car a bit. Then I spray it with flat finish (usually Tamiya flat finish in a spray can). Unlike most chalks or powders, you can seal in the powdered charcoal with flat finish spray without it dissolving. Of course, now that you have a 'patina' of dirt over the whole car, you can use chalk or powders to vary the weathering a bit.
Wayne's work is always very impressive and inspiring... I find that the easiest way to get rid of the toy-like appearance of a model is to cover it with a light black wash. Start by applying a coat of a clear, dull varnish, such as Testors Dullcote. I believe these are being taken off the store shelves, so I'm curious to know what other modellers are using these days. Anyway, the clear coat will help give "teeth" to the model's finish for the wash. Once clear coat is fully dried, apply the wash. You will need to prepare a bottle as instructed by Wayne. I mix about 30% of black craft paint, with distilled water and some acrylic thinner (I use Vallejo airbrush cleaner fluid). I apply light coats on the model, using a fan to speed up the drying while holding the model. This will help you avoid having all the wash accumulate at the bottom side of our model... You do want that do some extent to immitate nature, but not all of it. Light coats go a long way...
Simon
I like to first take rolling stock apart. This protects the trucks, wheelsets and couplers. Actually, I typically replace the plastic wheels and second-tier couplers anyway. Then I mask things like wheel bearings and spray the remaining body with a flat finish. Krylon works fine.
My normal weathering is done with powders. I use AIM, but there are others. I apply them with an old small paintbrush. When I'm happy, I give the body another coat of flat finish to seal in the powder.
I typically spray the truck frames with a rust-brown rattle can paint like Rust-Oleum. Then I add black powder and again a protective finish. Shiny black trucks just look wrong.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Hello All,
A few clarifications ("rough definitions") to help with the conversation:
Any media can be made into a wash by using the appropriate thinner.
Many folks talk about an "ink wash". Most inks are water-based. By diluting them with the appropriate thinner the opaque ink becomes a translucent "wash".
This is true with any other paint. A "wash" is just a paint that has been thinned to a transparent consistency. You can make a "wash" out of any media that can be thinned.
Pigments are finely ground powder(s) from natural or man-made sources. Pigments can be combined with water, oil, or spirits to form a paint.
The raw pigment can also be compressed into sticks "chalks" or left in its ground form "powders".
The term "weathering" for most modelers means the application of these media to replicate the naturally occurring phenomenon of degradation of a surface through chemical, wind and/or water erosion.
Most models come with a slick, plastic, finish. Many weathering techniques won't stick to or "bite" to this finish.
By applying a thin coat of dulling spray this gives the weathering media something to "hold on to".
Chalks & pigments should be "set" after application so they won't rub off during handling. A clear, flat finish coat is preferred by most modelers.
In the most recent issue of MRM; August 2020, Pelle Søeborg- -a frequent contributor- -weathered a steel coil car.
One technique he used was to make a "paint" out of ground pigments "powders" and a commercially available matte varnish.
Chalks can be easily found at art supply stores, along with acrylic paints, thinners and brushes.
I found a set of weathering brushes at a beauty supply store, considerably cheaper than the ones at the craft stores. They are branded as a makeup brush kit.
Weathering is akin to ballasting. Ask ten modelers and you'll get ten different answers.
As my dad used to say, "What's the worst you can do...'screw up' and start over?"
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
I'm an airbrush fan, but that is not my only technique. This video just appeared today. I don't know if the oils he shows are available in the US, but the box hobby stores have similar colors of oil paints.
Rons Trains N things also has some videos
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Heres my first attempt. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out!
Any critiques are welcome!
Hey that looks great!
snjroy Hey that looks great!
Hey thanks!
It is not heavily weathered, which I am calling a plus. The graffitti and heavily rusted look is not my era.
I perfer using the dry brush method with thinned acrylic weathering paints applied with a small flat tipped camel hair paint brush.
Wayne,Your cars looks great.
Ringo58, I really like the looks of your C&NW boxcar. Great job!
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
BRAKIE I perfer using the dry brush method with thinned acrylic weathering paints applied with a small flat tipped camel hair paint brush. Wayne,Your cars looks great. Ringo58, I really like the looks of your C&NW boxcar. Great job!
Thats the method I used. In the spots I wanted to be heavier (around the ribs and bottom of the car) I just used slightly thinned paint and then wiped clean with a paper towel and slowly built up the grime. all in all this car took me 30 min to make
BigDaddy It is not heavily weathered, which I am calling a plus. The graffitti and heavily rusted look is not my era.
My layout is set in the mid to late 90s so this rebuilt 1985 car wouldn't have been that dirty. and thank you for the kind words!
doctorwayne I agree 100%!!! Very nicely-done! I don't think that Ringo58 needs much tutoring from us! Wayne
This is going to give me some insperation. I think I'm going to try this out on one of my better cars and then move into a cheap Athearn gp50
I don't own an airbrush. I make do with rattle cans. A few things anyone can do to any car. First off, you can paint the undercarriage. I know it doesn't show, not nearly as much as the roof, but you can see it. Two inch wide masking tape wrapped around the car keeps the paint off the sides. Remove the trucks, mask the couplers, and spray the entire under carriage with gray auto primer from a rattle can. Dark gray and light gray works for me. The paint kills the plastic gleam and blends in the steel weight. While you have the dark gray auto primer handy you can paint the roofs of heavy weight passenger cars and cabeese, and any other places that need a good tar paper look. Then paint the trucks to kill the shiny black plastic look. I use red auto primer, looks just like rust red. And brush paint the faces of the wheels with grimy black for older friction bearing trucks and a light tan or mud color for the modern roller bearing trucks.
And finally you can give the entire car a shot of DullCote. It kills the plastic gleam and tones down the overly bright toy like colors of low end train set cars. It makes the car look sun faded.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Nice work!
Very subtle. I like it.
Good going with the excellent posts and info guys!
I'll keep it brief.
For overall, blend, and spot paint jobs the airbrush is my "go to".
However, for weathering I enjoying mixing an applying weathering washes with acrylic paint and paint brushes.
For mixing multiple colors, discarded pill trays and see-thru trays are convenient to use. I still have Pollyscale paints from years back that I prefer to thin with distilled water. I use the 3 colors below to represent the typical weathering seen on American east coast passenger trains, based on photos and real life observations. (not shown: Engine black and Reefer white mixes are also utilized)
I pour a very small amount of color into each tray's compartment, then thin each approximately 60% to 90%. The passenger car underframes are placed upisde down on my table, and I apply each wash using vertical strokes only. Because the wish is so thin, capillary action does a nice job of filling in the nooks and crannies. Trucks are also weathered.
The underframe in the photo is for a Rivarossi Budd unit.
BEFORE & AFTER samples Walthers passenger car trucks:
Metalized Rivarossi Budd Coach with Weatherwashed underframe and light weathering on fluted section.
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
Ringo,
I use a variety of the methods mentioned here. I think you have the most important part already - you have a great eye and a sense of color and balance. Trust your instincts which seem to be spot on..Experiment with some other techniques to expand your repertoire of weathering methods.
Guy
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site
Heres an update for you guys, got a litte adventurious and went ahead and weathered a p2k and 2/3 of my genesis's. Theres areas I need to work on but all in all not a bad start and I am very happy with how easy its been!
Thank you all for giving me inspiration to continue in this hobby!
Heres how my new cat likes the layout, haha!
Lastspikemike in my opinion, don't overdo it unless you have some specific prototype in mind , like a government grain hopper from the 80's still in service in 2020. You literally cannot overdo the weathering on one of those!
I've seen a lot of over done weathing jobs, and of course freight cars of the present often look horrible. It's one of a number of reasons I prefer the late 1970's. Otherwise I'd have to learn to be an "Xtreme" weathering expert to have a train anything approaching realistic.
That said, I've seen some excellent video's on weathering with pastels and it looks like a great way to get realism and have more control over the process. Mainly what I'm going to need are freight cars of varying degree's of road grime. Not complete rust buckets with patches and graffiti. I don't envy modern modelers at all - no thanks.
@Ringo88. Our "new" cat, a one year old kitten Fergie (cause she likes to lick our toes!) is not allowed near the layout. She would wreck expensive models that would cost too much to replace. Door shut. The older half Maine coon is allowed, she no bother.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
riogrande5761 @Ringo88. Our "new" cat, a one year old kitten Fergie (cause she likes to lick our toes!) is not allowed near the layout. She would wreck expensive models that would cost too much to replace. Door shut. The older half Maine coon is allowed, she no bother.
Since my layout is in the open at our apartment I figured I'd get jack used to it so he doesn't toss anything off! at 15 weeks hes no bother at all, he likes to stop them with his paw
Really swell - The cat I mean!
The weathering is very nice too. :-)
pwilfong Really swell - The cat I mean! The weathering is very nice too. :-)
He's alright, hahah!