I have read numerous threads about the different products used to remove paint, but haven't seen one that addresses the old Athearn blue box diesel locomotives.
Will 91% isopropyl work or do I need something stronger?
Thanks
Rick
Hi Rick,
I'm sure fellow modelers will post helpful tips shortly.
Respectfully, from my experience, 91% alcohol is not effective on stripping paint on the 1970's-early 80's production Athearn Blue Box locomotive shells.
A cliche' about the Athearn BB paint is that it's "Resistant to Phaser fire from the starship Enterprise!".
I've had success with removing stubborn paint with the purple "Super Clean" which is available in auto parts stores and Walmart. I would let a shell soak from 12 to 14 hours, then start scrubbing with a medium bristle (not soft) tooth brush.
Once done, I'd wash the shell in warm water and Dawn dishwashing soap (plain, no moisturizers or perfumes), allow it to dry. Wipe with a clean cloth lightly dampened with 70% iso-alcohol OR Windex.....and then.....turn on some smooth jazz as it was AIRBRUSH TIME!
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
Undecorated shells for most Athearn diesels are not hard to find, and if you already have the "glass" and handrails are the better option.
That will get you into paint much faster.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Super Clean worked for me on a BNSF green/orange GP38-2; let it soak overnight; cleaned up nicely with some gentle scrubbing with a toothbrush. It has also worked on blue box passenger cars.
Lastspikemike ...One thing is consistent, it is usually a better idea to buy an undecorated model than to strip and repaint/re decal.
In some cases I'd agree, but I've bought dozens of pre-owned factory-painted models, both locos, and freight and passenger cars, from hobbyshops, train shows, and estate sales, and, since most of them were older models, most were very easy to strip, and very enjoyable to re-detail, re-paint, and re-weather, too.
The best part, though, was the prices, as many were only a couple of bucks.
If I recall correctly, I've only ever bought two r-t-r cars, while the rest were kits or scratchbuilds/kitbashes, and none of those used ones, despite being intact, would have been considered r-t-r.
This Bowser covered hopper is one of them...
...and this tank car, from Tangent...
...but have also built some Tangent cars from their undecorated kits (not much in the way of savings, but suitable when you have something in particular in mind)...
Wayne
hbgatsfI have read numerous threads about the different products used to remove paint, but haven't seen one that addresses the old Athearn blue box diesel locomotives....
For pretty-well all of the Athearn Blue Box stuff....locos, freight cars, and passenger cars, too, methyl hydrate would remove the paint faster than a few too many drinks will remove the...ah, never mind that analogy.
You should be able to find it at any hardware or paint store, and likely the home improvement centres, too.
When using it, wear nitrile or rubber gloves, as it's very readily absorbed through the skin. When not in use, keep it securely covered, as it evapourates fairly easily, too.
Here's a Blue Box caboose that's been in a jar of methyl hydrate for about 5 minutes...
...and stripped and being modified....
...and re-painted and back in-service...
Thanks for the tips. I should mention that I just want to re-purpose an old loco I have that hasn't been used in 25 years. I will throw a decoder in it so it can run on the layout, but then it will be primarily a prop in a steel mill so the paint job doesn't need to be very good. Actually it will be just fine looking rough.