I have let Goo dry and simply scap it off with a modeling knife with a #11 blade.
Walther's' Goo is old school and there is a learning period on how to properly use it. I've been using Goo since the early 60s and thankfully I had a good teacher(my Dad) to teach me how to use Goo..
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
Thank you for the suggestions and the list. I have some Goo Gone, so will try that first. Fortunately the finish is not a concern. Not sure if I've got any acetone around or not.
Thanks again,
Richard
You may not need to 'build a watch' now but here is a good general reference on model-railroad adhesives that will probably give you a leg up on successfully gluing whatever you were trying to do.
https://www.nmra.org/sites/default/files/d1n.pdf
I use one of the Goo Gone products to soften the thio contact adhesives like Goo, Pliobond, and Permatex. This should affect plastic and paint relatively less than acetone or MEK (which I believe are the normal solvents/thinners for this kind of stuff). You can also use gentle heat to soften the adhesive to make it scrape/roll off easier once it has set -- this is also the 'reactivation' technique when using Goo thinned down for nonstringy joining.
I seem to recall acetone would help.
Even after you clean things up, the plastic's finish will be etched by the solvent in Goo, so it won't be perfect. Depending on the situation, it might be better to sand the Goo deposit down and just accept that things will be less than perfect. You might be able to bond something thin over it, for instance, to get a nice surface if needed.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
Tried to use Goo on an unknown plastic. Wasn't the right choice. Can someone recommend a solvent to clean it off, so I can try another adhesive?
Thank you,