jjdamnitI have a stash of both types of Athearn gearbox covers- -especially the metal ones as they are prone to bending.
I end up with lots of the blue box metal coupler covers since I replace the coupler boxes with Kadee boxes.
They sell quickly at train shows.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Hello All,
fisker4jcI'm trying to use Bachmann ez mate couplers on a(n) older Athearn "blue-box" GP35.
I agree with switching to Kadees.
fisker4jcI notice that they hang low and don't match up well with other engines and cars. Any suggestions?
Is the original coupler (draft gear-) box molded into the frame with a centering pin molded in with a metal cover that snaps on?
With this configuration, the centering pin has a smaller diameter than the hole in the coupler.
This discrepancy will cause the coupler(s) to droop.
You have a couple of options:
For my Athearn B.B. conversions, I used Kadee couplers with the sleeves.
I have a stash of both types of Athearn gearbox covers- -especially the metal ones as they are prone to bending.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
Here is how I converted a smiliar blue box GP-38:
https://dandhcoloniemain.blogspot.com/2020/02/boston-maine-athearn-gp-38-2-206.html
Modeling the D&H in 1984: http://dandhcoloniemain.blogspot.com/
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I agree with the advice to use a Kadee 20 series coupler in the Kadee #242 coupler box. It is pretty easy to drill and tap the Athearn frame for a 2-56 screw, and your operation will be flawless once the Kadee coupler is installed properly.
You can see in the pictures, my coupler was a little high at first. I fixed it with washers between the coupler box and the frame to lower the biox, but I could have also used an offset shank coupler.
to the Model railroader Forums fisker4jc
fisker4jcAny suggestions?
Yeah, go to the Kadee site and see what they suggest for that locomotive.
In the past, I used Kadee #5s, but for the two BlueBox geeps that I still have, I cut off the frame extensions for the couplers, then built pedestals, using sheet styrene, on the underside of the end walkways. I then used contact cement to body-mount Kadee #5s. on one end of each loco, and Kadee #8s on the other end (the two Geeps run as a pair, with the short #8s allowing close coupling between the two, while the #5s have a longer reach for whatever is being pulled...
Here's a #5, with a slightly-shortened draught gear box...
...and the #8 on the other end, with it's uncoupling "glad-hand" cut off...
...and here's the pair at Mount Forest, on the partial upper level of my layout...
Both locomotives have been re-motored with Mashima can motors and are weighted to about 18oz. each, so are great pullers.
However, they don't get much running time since I backdated my layout to the late '30s.
Wayne
LastspikemikeAthearn still use that goofy clip on coupler pocket cover
Actually Athearn's RTR cars uses screws to hold the copler box on. I'm not sure about the older BB cars sold under their Roundhouse line of RTR cars .
Athearn's early RTR cars was built BB cars that used the coupler clip.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
The best way to mount a KD coupler on a BB engine is by using the KD coupler box attached by a 2-56 screw..
The old metal coupler box on the older BB engines can be ground down by using a Dremel tool lacking said Dremel tool a a hand operated,air cooled large flat file will also work..
Throw away the Bachmann couplers and get Kadees. The 30 series has a nylon shank and will be insulated. They make overset and underset versions.Alternatively, do what I do and cut off the mounting pad on the frame and glue a styrene platform to the shell and mount the couplers on that.
Disclaimer: This post may contain humor, sarcasm, and/or flatulence.
Michael Mornard
Bringing the North Woods to South Dakota!
I'm trying to use Bachmann ez mate couplers on a older Athearn "blue-box" GP35. I notice that they hang low and don't match up well with other engines and cars. Any suggestions?