It is one of the bargains available today. I put the old Stewart locos in that category too.
I've seen Youtube videos, where the latest and greatest either arrive with broken parts or parts get broken, just taking out of the packaging.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Well, I bought it on ebay or something of that sort so I only paid for shipping, which cost like $10 or so. Well, its still about $60 New Old Stock, so its about half the price of a brand new loco which as far as i know cost like $120. Is'nt it a good deal? i dont know.
Lastspikemike...This is payable even if there's no customs duty as there often is not....
There's no duty on model train supplies, but there are all sorts of ridiculous "handling fees" for simply having it cross the border. I quit ordering stuff from the States and having it shipped here, and instead order on-line and have it shipped to a friend in the U.S.In "normal" times, I would have been down there visiting at least 2 or 3 times by now, but it's beginning to look like I won't make it at all this year. I usually stay for at least 3 or 4 days, and when I return to Canada, pay no fees whatsoever, as long as the value of what I'm bringing in is under $800.00 CDN.
There's a pile of stuff waiting down there, so I have several projects here "on-hold", too. The current exchange rate is also an issue, but it has been for some time.
Wayne
UnionPacific8444It was totally worth buying, especially for $50.
Hey UnionPacific8444!
Stop rubbing your USA price advantage in our Canadian faces please!!! The same loco here would probably cost about $150.00 Cdn. including shipping! (Shipping costs to Canada are a sin all by themselves)
Seriously, Nice score!!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
The FA2 arrived today. As some of you had mentioned before, it did have a spinning fan, and was very well detailed. It was really noisy when I had run it at first, but it ran a little more smoothly and quietly after I lubricated it with drops of Kato oil. It was totally worth buying, especially for $50. Thank you all for your help! I am very happy to have this fabulous loco run for my railroad!!!
dc for now but planning on buying a dcc controller
Do you run DC or DCC?
rrinkerThe #5 box won't short even if you use metal screws.
Absolutely correct. The coupler boxes are insulated from the screw, frame, and couper.
After chasing an insanely aggravating intermittent short a few years ago, I simply prefer to be as redundant as possible now on any equipment with a metal frame.
I hope this did not cause any confusion for the OP's coupler question. The #5, #28, or #148 (or #58/#158 as Tom stated) should all be fine.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
The #5 box won't short even if you use metal screws. If the 'ears' are left on, that insulated the whole rest of the assembly, but even if you run a screw up the middle hole, the plastic boss which holds the coupler insulates the coupler from the screw and frame.
My P2K locos all have a plastic coupler box, insulating even a full metal #5 from the frame even using the stock metal screw.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
thanks! i will try to convert it when i get it!
Lastspikemike Oddly, this link will not insert no matter which way I try it. http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/81021.aspx#81021
Oddly, this link will not insert no matter which way I try it.
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/81021.aspx#81021
Alton Junction
Make sure the couplers aren’t too short or too long, but just right.
UP,
If you like the looks of scale couplers, the #58s and #158 will fit, as well.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
UnionPacific8444sorry, but what kadee couplers am i supposed to use for the loco?
Kadee suggests either the #5 or the #148.
I used the #28 in mine. It is the same dimensions as the #5, but it is not metal. I prefer to use 20 series non-conductive couplers on anything with a metal frame. You know... just in case. I run a lot of brass freight car models and I want to avoid any chance of a short circuit through the frames.
thank you! it seems like the previous owner checked to see if it ran and it did. i guess there's no problems with the motor or the gears on that loco.
The #8362 looks like one of the early run FA-2 models, which had the interesting feature of a belt driven radiator fan and other details like movable radiator shutters. I've never heard anything bad about these models! Just give that fan a bit of silver paint before putting the shell on so you can see it rotating as it runs along.
_________________________________________________________________
I never even heard of the FAs having the cracked gear issue - my GP7s all did, so I just replaced them as part of putting them in service. Not heard about motor issue, either - the only P2Ks with motor issues were a certain run of the PA which got outfitted with motors drawing 3x the current of the rest of them.
I have a set of FAs that run great. They can be a little delicate - since they used close to scale size ladders and grabs, and they have a door in the middle there's not much room to pick them up and the fine details can be broken fairly easily. Mine are the later version, without the gimmicky operating fan. I have another chassis from the earlier one that came in a Roundhouse RS3 kit. You can tell because the rear flywheel has a pulley groove in it where the rubber band to spin the fan went.
I have not heard about any motor problems, just the axle gears cracking. The gears are an easy fix with several solutions available.
thanks for the information! i havent checked the price yet but im pretty sure its new old stock. i was just worried a bit cause ive heard old proto 2000s like the BL2s have motor problems or something. ill go for a buy if the price is good!
I have an A/B set, both powered, and love them. They run fantastic and look great. Mine do not have much track time, but seem as well made as my other Proto-2000 locomotives.
This is an older model and might have the gear cracking issue. I have not had many of my Proto-2000 models have this problem, and it is an easy fix, but it does happen.
Whether or not it is worth buying is up to you. Will you need to convert it to DCC? Is the price right? Is it used or NOS (New Old Stock)?
is a #8362 proto 2000 fa2 loco worth buying? i saw it at a shop the other day but wasnt so sure.