UnionPacific8444Thanks. Will kadee #148 work?
Yes. A Kadee #148 Metal Standard Head With Wiskers will work. Be sure to clean the flash from the coupler pocket end. The rear of the coupler head may rub the pocket end on Compression/"run the slack in".
Lighty rub both flat sides of the metal coupler cover plate on a flat file just to smooth it. I say both sides because then it will not matter (opps) what side you end up using. I use the smooth side without the two indents against the coupler.
It will take you longer to clean the flash off the underframe then to finish the whole car and add a load of ballast, maybe.
The instrustions may show two sizes of screws one being a #2x1/8'' ST for the coupler covers and one being a #2x3/16'' ST for the trucks. Well it seems like all the screws are #2x3/16'' ST.
After the underframe is painted, it is easier to mount the couplers, then mount the trucks (clean the paint from the truck/underfame contact area) to the underframe and check for operation on rail. If all is good, then mount the body to the underframe, just remember to match the brake castings end to the brake wheel end.
UnionPicifi...
Clean the flash from the metal frame/chassie first, then test fit it in the body, then paint with spray or brush (keep paint out of the coupler pocket and off of the coupler cover inside and the post/bearing area that the trucks will contact). When I have a choice (plastic or metal covers), I use the metal coupler cover with the short self tapping screw (do not over tighten this screw) when I have a metal frame/chassie like on these MDC/Roundhouse cars.
By the way, I use Kadee couplers.
Be sure that the brake components that are attached to the frame/chassie are at the correct end of the body (the correct body end will have the brake wheel on it. Before you install the screw to fasten the trucks in place, check the coupler height with what ever you use for a gauge, (Kadee makes one for Kadee couplers). Set the trucks on the rail and set the car body on the trucks and see what adjustments (up or down) might need to be made if any.
EDIT: As I look at my MDC/Roundhouse hoppers like the above car #1561, the early ones have the metal coupler covers then later go to plastic covers. So I did use both metal and plastic, what ever came with that car. I am not sure but it seems like the plastic covers are thinner. Do not throw away those plastic or metal coupler covers, which ever ones you do not use, someday you may need them.
And welcome to the Forum UnionPacifi...
I have done many MDC, Roundhouse kits over the years. I used MEK. Have to be carefull not to apply too much. Thin as water. I had an applicator.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Gotta start somewhere. Yep, paint the metal chassis same as the body color.
For most Athearn kits, the metal cover that snaps in place can be used with Kadee couplers, but I haven't built all the Roundhouse/MDC cars so it may be different. Typically, the plastic cover is used with a screw to keep everything in place when it's an alternative and there may be a couple of screws to fit in the kit to do this. What's important is that the coupler is free to move side to side, springing back to centered position so it couples easily.
Any type of liquid styrene cement will work for glue.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
I bought two brand new "Roundhouse Products Ballast Car Rib-Side 1561 UP-M.W."s, but I don't know how to assemble it because the assembly instructions look very vague. How and what color am I supposed to paint the metal chassis? According to the body color? What kind of coupler cover plate should I use? the metal one or the plastic one? Also, what type of adhesive am I supposed to use to glue the parts together? Thank you.