I mark an exacto blade to the depth I need with a permanent marker. I then carefully cut the area into little tiny squares to the depth indicated by the marker on the blade. The bits break off at the perfect depth.
I have done large areas with this method and found caulk works as the perfect leveler on the bottom for some errant gouges.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
O few layouts ago, I used a method of installing Tortoise machines from the top side of extruded foam. I uses a Dremel router attachment to carve out the space for the perfboard that the Tortoise was screwed to to sit flat and level - did not have a problem with the extruded foam melting and fouling the bit. Biggest problem was dust, mostly solved by holding the Dremel in one hand and the hose to the shop vac in the other.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Foam core paper is available commonly in 3/16 and 1/4 thicknesses. You could use that for the build up and then add your top cover from there. The foam core is cut easily with a knife and comes in 20" x 30" sheets. Handy for other projects too. Hope that helps.
NVSRR Look up luke towan on the tube. He does one. Shane
Look up luke towan on the tube. He does one.
Shane
Yep, I already had it in my saved videos. Here it is for others following the thread and needing help.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TbPbz5NiDqw&list=PLvYE6OfWfC5a5txXfUtnNleEQ5kuOIG_d&index=8&t=0s
Looks like a Dremel tool is in my future or cork layering technique.
OvermodRouting is surely an applicable solution, but NOT at typical Dremel speed -- it will quickly melt and burn the styrene or copolymer and glaze the bit.
I'm certain I've seen Ken Patterson use a full size router on foam. He routinely routes a groove in the side of the foam, glues in a piece of wood, to which he attaches the fascia. He also routes to run wires and switch panels behind the fascia.Searching his videos is tedious, you have to look at the opening credits of each video on youtube.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
A pessimist sees a dark tunnel
An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel
A realist sees a frieght train
An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space
Robert Hamilton I'm just trying to figure out if there is a tool out there that will allow me to cut or carve down into my styrofoam base 8mm or 5/16" accurately.
Hot-wire loop is likely the best if you don't have a paper face (or can cut it away with something like a #1 X-acto to mark where the loop goes).
Routing is surely an applicable solution, but NOT at typical Dremel speed -- it will quickly melt and burn the styrene or copolymer and glaze the bit. Something like a rotary rasp at appropriate rpm for suitable 'feed speed' is a better choice -- but you better rig really good vacuum 'dust' collection right at the device or expect to spend years of cleaning little particles from everywhere.
It is possible that a 'hot' version of something like a sharpened loop sculpture or pottery tool --essentially like a strong loop version of a 'hot knife' -- would easily cut laminated face paper in built-up construction. This might be done with a comparatively high-wattage soldering iron with accurate temperature control as a basis.
I think that 8mm foam insulation is a common "international" standard. I've also seen 2mm foam board at office supply stores. Would making a lamination be feasible?
If you were intent on carving out the groove, could you use a router attachment on a Dremel set at 8mm deep?
Overmod There are, or were, some extremely good YouTube videos that describe how to use this approach, one of them showing how it coexists with other methods of 'vehicle animation'.
There are, or were, some extremely good YouTube videos that describe how to use this approach, one of them showing how it coexists with other methods of 'vehicle animation'.
Yeah, I've watched a number of youtube videos on the system and what people have set up. I'm just trying to figure out if there is a tool out there that will allow me to cut or carve down into my styrofoam base 8mm or 5/16" accurately. Looks like I'm leaning toward building up layers of cork but wanted to see if others had any other suggestions.
I’m kicking it around and I saw somewhere that 1/4” or 3/16” foam board was the way to go.Edit:
From an Office Supply Store
Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
Hi everyone,
I've recently purchased and started testing the Magnorail system, which allows you to animate vehicles and cyclists. I'm using it on my HO layout. Three cyclists and multiple cars, trucks and vans.
I'm testing the system (motor, chain and magnets with the cyclists and vehicles work great) but I'm having some trouble with the depth of my track. You are either supposed to imbed the track system 8mm below the surface, or screw the track down onto plywood (or any base) and then raise up the roadbed to 8mm so that the top sheet of photographic card stock can be tacked down with double-sided tape.
My question to any fellow railroaders out there using the Magnorail system, how did you accurately embed the track in your foam base or how did you raise your roadbed to 8mm accurately? I don't have a hot wire cutter to cut a layer of foam accurately, unfortunately. Past attempts at cutting the foam with a hobby knife and a caliper ruler lead to inaccurate cuts and the depth being inconsistent.
Most cork rolls or cork floor tiles that are available in smaller quantities are not at the right depth; I'd probably have to add 5 layers of 1/16" cork to get the right depth. MDF or indeed any material suitable doesn't seem to come in 5/16" depth, or at not least readily available during COVID in Canada. Ebay foam retailers shipping costs are more than the foam itself.
Any thoughts or suggestions?