Dr Wayne,Yes I do remember that subject thread of yours, and specifically marked it so I would have some good directions/suggestions to follow when I attacked mine.
I woke up today wanting to just tack some pieces together as I go to measuring up my floors. Didn't have time to fully go thru your previous thread to investigate that 'tacking subject',...and that prompted me to post this thread to just explore real quickly what glues others might have used on resin kits.I ended up using some hot melt glue in a really limited manner, and it worked for a while. But when the hot summer sun peaked under my carport and hit my outdoor work bench, some of those joints came apart. But luckily I had time to cut out my floor pieces, so now I have a base structure to start assembly with.Another item prompted my inquiry. When I was taking the previously assembled kit apart, I was surprised that I was able to remove all of the windows without any sign of breakage. I'm still in awe of how the original assembler was able to put the kit together with very little over-use of adhesive?
BTW, I am looking to build my kit with no roof, so one can view the big steam engines parked in there. For that reason I want to have good clean joints on the inside there.
Brian
My Layout Plan
Interesting new Plan Consideration
doctorwayne maxman, I do appreciate the fact that you did investigate the link, as I often wonder if there's anybody that bothers to follow them. I know that I do, when others post them, as they often contain additional good information. Wayne
maxman, I do appreciate the fact that you did investigate the link, as I often wonder if there's anybody that bothers to follow them. I know that I do, when others post them, as they often contain additional good information.
I followed the link Wayne and your profile on that site says your date of birth was in 2000. You have made remarkable progress for such a youngster.
Dave Nelson
doctorwayne I do appreciate the fact that you did investigate the link, as I often wonder if there's anybody that bothers to follow them. I know that I do, when others post them, as they often contain additional good information.
You're welcome. I sometimes don't follow the links...depends on the topic and who is doing the posting.
I did see the screws. I didn't go beyond the first page originally because you did that digression thing and I thought the topic had changed.
Thanks for the follow up.
maxman Where were the 1-72 screws used? Did not see any in the link photos.
Where were the 1-72 screws used? Did not see any in the link photos.
doctorwayneI think that I may have previously offered a link to my construction of a Korber roundhouse, but I'll include it again HERE.
I use Loctite Gel Control super glue on all resin kits. It does not bond instantly, and once fully cured it is permanent.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I don't build kits because I'm allergic to most glues. The only glue that I can use is white glue all.
Korber kits have a habit of being warped so check out your kit before starting the build.
good luck,
Dave
The thin water white plastic welder cements only work on styrene plastic. I don't think they would have any stick on resin. Epoxy works on nearly everything and is fairly gap filling. Should work fine on a resin model. Walthers Goo works on most things, it offers instant tack and when dried it sticks hard. It is solvent based and will warp styrene. CA or superglue sticks to anything (including you). You can unglue it with acetone (nail polish remover). I use it to stick metal details to plastic shells and brass details to Zamac steamers. I read that a lot of people use it on resin kits. I haven't done a resin kit yet so what do I know?
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Brian, I think that I may have previously offered a link to my construction of a Korber roundhouse, but I'll include it again HERE.
I'm not a fan of ca for kit building, and generally use it only for adding metal details (grabirons, sill steps, or piping) to plastic kits. The Korber parts have somewhat irregular mating surfaces, so a filler-type ca might work, or perhaps epoxy. As you'll see in the link, I did use some epoxy, but not as the primary adhesive.
Wayne
It is disdained my many (and often not used the way its instructions recommend - applied to both surfaces and left alone for a few minutes before joining) but Walthers Goo still has a place on my workbench.