It it's always good hear the resolution of the story. See you in the forum.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Maybe an ending to this adventure story....The Athearn Roundhouse GP40-2 arrived yesterday, (probably shipment delayed with the Pandemic impact) from Trains/Stuff...Did a few test runs last night and performed well.. Sincere thanks to you guys who assisted me in this search/choice: jjdamnit, Big Daddy, David et al...3 of the four "old" locos running well now and my bench work is about 3/4 done....I really appreciate your counsel throughout this process...Good people with much knowledge on this forum and willing to share....Grateful for that,
Hello All,
Thank you for the kind words and a I'm glad to be part of the solution.
Keep us updated on your progress.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
mbinsewi GOOD NEWS and Thank you!!!! Got the GP 40-2 ordered through "Model RR stuff". I think why computer was not letting me find in past, I had entered "Athearn" into my description...Noticed your posts just said Roundhouse GP 40-2....In any case, it worked...Looking forward to its arrival... Sincere THANK YOU to jjdamnitt, Mike and Henry ...We finally got it done!!! Now I have to learn the nuances of searching and ordering for future :). Thanks BigDaddy For smiles and giggles I added some to my cart and when I tried to delete them I got server errors, which usually doesn't happen. Just for fun, I tried that Henry, everthing worked for me, and I was able to empty my cart. I don't have any of the RH locos, but I understand them to be an improved version of the BB locos, which means a nice simple drive train, easy to work on, like the old BB ( blue box) locos. Athearn says they come DCC ready, with an 8 and 9 pin plug. Should be a great choice for the OP. Mike.
GOOD NEWS and Thank you!!!! Got the GP 40-2 ordered through "Model RR stuff". I think why computer was not letting me find in past, I had entered "Athearn" into my description...Noticed your posts just said Roundhouse GP 40-2....In any case, it worked...Looking forward to its arrival...
Sincere THANK YOU to jjdamnitt, Mike and Henry ...We finally got it done!!! Now I have to learn the nuances of searching and ordering for future :). Thanks
BigDaddy For smiles and giggles I added some to my cart and when I tried to delete them I got server errors, which usually doesn't happen.
Just for fun, I tried that Henry, everthing worked for me, and I was able to empty my cart.
I don't have any of the RH locos, but I understand them to be an improved version of the BB locos, which means a nice simple drive train, easy to work on, like the old BB ( blue box) locos.
Athearn says they come DCC ready, with an 8 and 9 pin plug.
Should be a great choice for the OP.
Mike.
My You Tube
jjo Athearn Roundhouse GP 40-2 . I tried to order it on TrainsStuff but could not find (perhaps sold out or gone?)
Model Train Stuff lists several and when you click on when, they tell you how many they have in stock, (1 or 2 of these). For smiles and giggles I added some to my cart and when I tried to delete them I got server errors, which usually doesn't happen.
You are right to be wary of stores you haven't heard of. Reviews of Active Power Sports say they charge your credit card immediately, then drop ship your purchase several weeks later.
Never heard of Bandit Model Trains, but they have website and a store. The store looks smaller than my garage. MTS has lower prices.
jjdamnit Hello All, jjo Had to back off..Hard to correlate the info gained here with actual specs, model number, detail etc. so I could order.. If you have the time and patience get a copy of The Model Railroader's Guide To Diesel Locomotives; Jeff Wilson, 2009, Kalmbach Publishing Co. Despite its age, it is a thorough listing of the major manufacturers of prototypical (real-life) diesel locomotives from the first gas-electric Box Cabs of the early 20th century to the 6-axle units of the early 21st century. It also has an appendix of HO and N scale locomotives and their manufacturers as of 2009. Perhaps a companion to this diesel locomotive book might be Beginners Guide To Locomotives And Rolling Stock; Cody Grivno, Kalmbach Publishing Co. Another resource is the RailPictures website. This collection of photos covers most locomotives produced from steam to diesel. These are arranged by prototypical manufacturers and their models. It also categorizes motive power (locomotives) by their liveries (road names). As you are doing your research I don't know if anyone has mentioned "B" units, slugs, and calves. These units are locomotives that have had their cabs removed and are "slaved" to a "master" unit. The "A" or "cow" unit is connected via special cables so the control commands from the lead or master unit are mimicked by the second unit. Thus adding power without additional crews. Modern trains, with mid-train helpers, are radio controlled. This unit will outwardly look like the other motive power but will be unmanned. Prototypically these consists AKA: multi-units (MUs) can contain many locomotives; typically all of the same manufacturer and model. These lash-ups can be designated by the units they contain: A-B-A, A-B-B-A, A-A-B, A-A-A-A, etc. As has been said many times over, "there is a prototype for every situation." Some railroads have combined EMD and GE units in the same consist. Back to your dilemma... I went to both the Model Train Stuff and Train World web sites. I filtered both sites by scale; HO, classification; Locomotive, and type; diesel. From there I went to sort by; Price- -lowest to highest and finally; Max number per page. At Model Train Stuff I found several Walthers Trainline HO EMD GP15-1 for $53.99 (minus shipping + tax). Unique loco at a reasonable price. Scrolling down, is a Bachmann GP38-2 (with DCC) for $69.99. Bachmann DCC decoders are factory set to run in both DC & DCC mode- -with some restrictions. (I own one of these units and it is probably the smoothest running on my DCC pike.) Below that is an Athearn Roundhouse GP40-2 for $74.99. This unit is "DCC Ready" which means it is set up for DC operation but can be upgraded to DCC by installing a 8- or 9-pin National Model Railroad Association compliant decoder. Over on the Train World site I found several Walthers GP9s for $49.99. Bachmann GP30s (a personal favorite of mine) for $53.99 and GP40s $65.99. (I own four of these Bachmann GP40s in a consist for my coal drag.) I understand the "analysis paralysis". Out of all the options I have listed, if it were my $$ and choice I would get the Athearn Roundhouse GP40-2 for $74.99 from Model Train Stuff. This unit is a solid runner and DC out of the box. Yes, you can run a "dual-mode" DCC decoder on a DC pike but there are caveats. With this unit you don't have those problems. If you do decide to upgrade to a DCC system; with this loco it's a simple matter of removing the shell, plugging in a non-sound decoder- -about $20.00- -and you are up and running. Hope this helps.
jjo Had to back off..Hard to correlate the info gained here with actual specs, model number, detail etc. so I could order..
If you have the time and patience get a copy of The Model Railroader's Guide To Diesel Locomotives; Jeff Wilson, 2009, Kalmbach Publishing Co.
Despite its age, it is a thorough listing of the major manufacturers of prototypical (real-life) diesel locomotives from the first gas-electric Box Cabs of the early 20th century to the 6-axle units of the early 21st century.
It also has an appendix of HO and N scale locomotives and their manufacturers as of 2009.
Perhaps a companion to this diesel locomotive book might be Beginners Guide To Locomotives And Rolling Stock; Cody Grivno, Kalmbach Publishing Co.
Another resource is the RailPictures website.
This collection of photos covers most locomotives produced from steam to diesel. These are arranged by prototypical manufacturers and their models. It also categorizes motive power (locomotives) by their liveries (road names).
As you are doing your research I don't know if anyone has mentioned "B" units, slugs, and calves. These units are locomotives that have had their cabs removed and are "slaved" to a "master" unit.
The "A" or "cow" unit is connected via special cables so the control commands from the lead or master unit are mimicked by the second unit. Thus adding power without additional crews.
Modern trains, with mid-train helpers, are radio controlled. This unit will outwardly look like the other motive power but will be unmanned.
Prototypically these consists AKA: multi-units (MUs) can contain many locomotives; typically all of the same manufacturer and model. These lash-ups can be designated by the units they contain: A-B-A, A-B-B-A, A-A-B, A-A-A-A, etc.
As has been said many times over, "there is a prototype for every situation." Some railroads have combined EMD and GE units in the same consist.
Back to your dilemma...
I went to both the Model Train Stuff and Train World web sites. I filtered both sites by scale; HO, classification; Locomotive, and type; diesel. From there I went to sort by; Price- -lowest to highest and finally; Max number per page.
At Model Train Stuff I found several Walthers Trainline HO EMD GP15-1 for $53.99 (minus shipping + tax). Unique loco at a reasonable price.
Scrolling down, is a Bachmann GP38-2 (with DCC) for $69.99. Bachmann DCC decoders are factory set to run in both DC & DCC mode- -with some restrictions. (I own one of these units and it is probably the smoothest running on my DCC pike.)
Below that is an Athearn Roundhouse GP40-2 for $74.99. This unit is "DCC Ready" which means it is set up for DC operation but can be upgraded to DCC by installing a 8- or 9-pin National Model Railroad Association compliant decoder.
Over on the Train World site I found several Walthers GP9s for $49.99. Bachmann GP30s (a personal favorite of mine) for $53.99 and GP40s $65.99. (I own four of these Bachmann GP40s in a consist for my coal drag.)
I understand the "analysis paralysis".
Out of all the options I have listed, if it were my $$ and choice I would get the Athearn Roundhouse GP40-2 for $74.99 from Model Train Stuff.
This unit is a solid runner and DC out of the box. Yes, you can run a "dual-mode" DCC decoder on a DC pike but there are caveats. With this unit you don't have those problems.
If you do decide to upgrade to a DCC system; with this loco it's a simple matter of removing the shell, plugging in a non-sound decoder- -about $20.00- -and you are up and running.
jjdamnit, I like your recomendation and reasoning on the Athearn Roundhouse GP 40-2 . I tried to order it on TrainsStuff but could not find (perhaps sold out or gone?)..I then Googled and tried to find alternate sources...Most were out of stock. Found two I am not familiar with who had the product (Bandit Model trains, Active power sports ?!) but I'm hesitant to order from an unknown like that.
What do you suggest? Maybe you have a 2nd choice or? I spent 30-40 minutes on Train Stuff tonight in vain..I think that's a a great choice but can't find a place to get it..Sorry to bother you again but I'm stymied...Thank you,
PS My copy of the 2nd book you mentioned by Grivno arrived today..
jjoHad to back off..Hard to correlate the info gained here with actual specs, model number, detail etc. so I could order..
Just get a Kato NW2 from e-bay, best starter engine ever and can ussually gotten for under $50, I got 4 or 5 and that is after thinning collection. Atlas can be great too but they had a few that were not. The new Bachmann stuff is great and cheap, got a DCC with sound from a major e-tailer for around $60, new in box for a diesel.
The truck is the assembly that the axles are on.
Here's a truck with 3 axles, for an SD70:
Image from Hobbylinc.
The truck on a GP has 2 axles.
The assembly on freight and passenger cars are also called trucks.
Thank you Mike...starting to clear the confusion...This helps much...
But my "newness" is still showing, what is a TRUCK?
I have a small 4X8 beginner layout, so I am looking for a 4 axle HO Diesel ideally in one of those 4 brands...THANK YOU for your help.
4 axle locomotives will start with a GP, such as GP38, GP40, GP20, etc., and 6 axles locomotives will be SD60, SD40-2, SD45, etc.
4 axles locomotives will also have BB trucks, a 6 axle will have a CC trucks.
With Alcos, they are a little different, GENERALLY, Alco RS units are BB trucks, or 4 axle locos, and RSC locos are CC trucks, or 6 axle locos. There are other variations on Alco locos.
Switch engines will 4 axle, and have an SW, like SW1500, SW12, or SW7.
Steam locomotives will have wheel designations, like 2-4-0, 4-6-4, 2-8-0, etc.
What is it you want to buy? a 4 axle (GP), a 6 axle (SD), or a steam locomotive? or a switcher (SW) ?
jjoAtlas RS3,Bachman GP 7, 9, 39, 40
Those are 4 axle locos.
jjoand Sd 70,
That is a 6 axle loco.
jjoAtlas 38-2 etc
That is a GP38-2, a 4 axle loco.
What model numbers and specs are confusing you? Post them for us to see, and help.
Most DC HO locomotives operate on 12 volts. Operating DCC units with sound on DC will take more to start up the sound. But if you purchase a DC locomotive (your MRC pack), you will be fine. And yes 4 axle is 1 axle for each pair of wheels. Most six axle locomotives will not handle 18" radius curves very well.
This is in another thread but I will shorten. Placing order today was hard: Went online today to get the new HO Diesel locomotive..Sticking with my top 4: Atlas, Bachman, Walthers and Bowser..Had to back off..Hard to correlate the info gained here with actual specs, model number, detail etc. so I could order..Here's my confusions:
Several Locomotives (diesel) said needs 16V to operate properly. My Railpower 1300 power unit is 15V?
I was looking for 4 axle diesel. Many appear to me to be 6 or more. Maybe I'm not defining axle correctly? (1 axle for each pair of wheels/tires?)
The Model number, specs do not match up with the specs I was looking for (no 6 axle, Atlas RS3,Bachman GP 7, 9, 39, 40 and Sd 70,Atlas 38-2 etc)...Hard to translate/match into the specs/descriptions on the various web sites..
Sorry.. My newbie status showing....Thought it'd be easy to order. Don't want to order the wrong loco...You guys gave me good, useful advice and I want to use it......THANK YOU, in advance. A bit confused,
I don't know if you've "pulled the trigger" yet but one last thought on the class of locomotive.
Until you get your track 100% I would not go too small on your choice.
Smaller switchers, which tend to be less expensive than the 4-axle road units, can be unreliable over dirty sections of track and through the non-powered frogs of turnouts (the "X" section of the turnout in the center).
This class of small switchers include the 44-ton, 70-ton, SWs, NWs, TRs, and MPs.
One exception would be the Walthers Plymouth ML-8 switcher. This particular unit has a "keep-alive" device built onto the factory installed Printed Circuit Board (PCB) decoder.
This little unit pulls like a champ, has good top-end speed and is on sale now at Walthers. The only downside to this unit is it is DCC only.
jjo OK almost ready to squeeze the trigger and place the order.... Currently, I'm thinking to buy a Diesel in one of these 4 brands:ATLAS, Walthers,Bowser,or Bachman (although I have 3 older Bachmans in this original lot). If you have any further thoughts, please chime in. I plan to order late tomorrow or Wed Am through "Trains & stuff". Again, thank you all
OK almost ready to squeeze the trigger and place the order....
Currently, I'm thinking to buy a Diesel in one of these 4 brands:ATLAS, Walthers,Bowser,or Bachman (although I have 3 older Bachmans in this original lot).
If you have any further thoughts, please chime in. I plan to order late tomorrow or Wed Am through "Trains & stuff". Again, thank you all
BTW: don't throw away your old locos. Some might be somewhat reparable or become decoys for a new paintbrush!
Simon
mbinsewiAs the OP's modeling experience grows, he'll learn how out to find the "good stuff" on auction sites, and train shows, and such. Mike.
Mike, I fully agree there is a learning curve that comes with experience and when that experience comes you know what brands to buy and those not to buy.
Experience will also teach you some of the older locomotives is still a good buy. I love my older Atlas/Kato, Atlas Classics, Life Like P2K and yup my BB engines. They may not be up to today's so called "standards" but,they're still nice locomotives.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
I was going to suggest Atlas yellow box locos found on Ebay, but I don't think the OP wants to deal with any of that, where many of us would jump on'em.
The same with Athearn BB locos.
I picked up an Atlas/Kato YB loco a few days ago for a song. The thing has hardly been out of the box. It runs like my new Katos, flawlessly!
He wants new, after the burn he got on his last purchase.
I think Bagal's idea of going to a well known on line store, find what he wants, and purchasing it seems to be a good way to go.
As the OP's modeling experience grows, he'll learn how out to find the "good stuff" on auction sites, and train shows, and such.
PC101Shy away from the Atlas RS3 in the YELLOW BOX
I have three of these Atlas/Kato RS-3s and the couplers has given me zero problems over the years.. I highly recommend them since these can be found at train shows for around $35-45.00. A great bargain and a great locomotive for beginners.
OP
This is very easy. Go to the Trainworld site, search on diesel engines. Anything above $49.99 is fine for a beginner.
Or does anyone find any duds in that lot?
And stay with your brass track in the meantime. You may to clean more frequently but otherwise it is fine.
Good luck!
Bagal
Shy away from the Atlas RS3 in the YELLOW BOX. I would not think an upto date mailorder location would sell one of these (NIB) at this date in time. The couplers were attached to the PLASTIC PILOT AND WALKWAY, and this design would flex, also these early models had cast on grab irons. But you never know what could be sitting on a dusty shelf for what you may think is a good low price for an Atlas brand model and somebody wants to get rid of it.
On the other hand the Atlas RS3 in the BLACK BOX has plastic pilots and walkway and a cast metal frame with a coupler pocket, making this a good solid platform for the couplers. This model also had separately applied grab irons.
Anyway an RS1 or RS3 has better visabilty for the crew going in reverse over a F7 or F9.
jjo...Bachman (although I have 3 older Bachmans in this original lot).
Yes, older generations of Bachmann motive power lacked in many ways- -even in the pre-DCC era.
Bachmann's recent locomotives; dare I say- -even the steamers- -are relatively inexpensive, reliable and, in my opinion a good value, despite the limitations of their non-sound decoders.
Their service department is excellent, even when your loco is out of warranty.
jjo,
I would choose Atlas then Bowser. It depends what you are looking at for the Walthers or Bachmann.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Going by what I have experience of the 4 you mention, I'd go with Atlas. And get some NS track. Brass is ok, but NS is better.
jjdamnit, thank you for your detailed analysis...Makes sense.. Most of your suggestions have been placed on my short list...I'll post below a summary of my current thoughts too. Sincere thanks.
BIG DADDY, loved your statement: " Good judgement comes from the experience of bad judgement." and its true.
jjoI am a relatively new "rookie" who unwisely bought a lot of bldgs, bridges, landscape, track (brass!), switches, controller etc in a group purchase...The locomotives have simply not performed...So I'm looking for DEPENDABILITY (SIC) and Reliability (SIC)...Please tell me not only your recommendations (SIC) of which one(s) to buy but also WHERE to buy...This will help me a lot(.)
It seems that you have made some decisions based on haste and wanting to get something, anything, up and running as soon as possible.
These decisions have caused frustration, delays, and loss of money.
I am truly sorry to hear about your steep learning curve.
Here is some advice that you might not want to hear...
Before you commit track to benchwork and more money to dead-ends some things to consider:
Do you just want to run trains, authenticity over interest? Are you fascinated by a particular industry, place, time? Do you enjoy modeling?
Take some time and consider this...
John Allen the "Wizzard Of Monterey" on planning:"A model railroad should probably start with a concept. Why? Because much knowledge about railroading, experience in model railroading, and thought are required before a proper concept for a model railroad can be formed. These requirements are seldom possible on a first pike. Mine was no exception."- -John Allen; Gorre & Daphetid Railroad.
Depending on your budget and space constraints I would suggest starting out with model EMD GP (General Purpose) diesel locomotives.
The GP or "Geeps" as they are commonly referred to are 4-axle locomotives that have had a long career on the rails.
Be aware, the SD series are 6-axle and don't run well on tight radius track; 18-inches and under.
As far as brands:
Personally I would seek out a track plan. Simple ovals with turnouts for crossovers might seem boring now but wait until you have to chase electrical "gremlins" and see how "exciting" that small pike can become.
With track plan in hand buy the track you need, not just a "bundle" of preowned.
If I were to decide on one locomotive to begin my roster, without regard to era or road name I would choose an early RS- -1, 2, or 3.
Atlas has RS3s available.
As far as rolling stock. See what you can harvest from your initial foray.
If nothing more, keep them around for practicing kitbashing and weathering techniques.
Happy modeling, keep us updated and as always...