Thanks for the great tips!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
wvg_ca it helps if you reduce speed to a slow rotation, it takes longer, but the white metal doesn't 'melt' on the edge ..
it helps if you reduce speed to a slow rotation, it takes longer, but the white metal doesn't 'melt' on the edge ..
I learned that the hard way a long time ago. Went drilling into a mantua boiler way to fast, melted in and then seized and snapped the drill bit! What a mess.
Thanks for the dishsoap tip. Dan
Here's another for your consideration: I drill into a cake of beeswax before going into white metal or brass. Clean and works like a charm, even with #80 in a pinvise. I don't need to worry about cleaning off any cutting fluid residue right away - handy when I work with metal parts that I prefer to solder together instead of using glue.
Joel
EDIT: I see someone above already mentioned beeswax.
Modeling the C&O New River Subdivision circa 1949 for the fun of it!
A good tip. Guys used to use beeswax for drill bits but that's a product you don't see much of, and it would be about as difficult to remove I suspect as oil when you want to paint the part.
Dave Nelson
Thanks, I never tried that. I always hate putting oil on bare metal!
Simon
When drilling or tapping small holes in white metal castings the material tends to gall on the cutting edge if you don't use any lubricant. If you want to avoid introducing oil onto parts prior to painting, try using straight dishwashing liquid applied with a small paintbrush. It is an effective lubricant so you don't need to apply much, and it will wash away in your pre-paint cleaning.