Does anyone know what the difference is between M.E.K. and M.E.K. Substitute? The real stuff is getting harder to find.
Rick
Basically it is "nasty " stuff. I noticed one post using it in a quart can.
It is Methyl Ethyl Ketone
Make sure you don't inhale the fumes!!! It can give you some serious health problems!
I use Testors glue in the black bottle, and Testors glue for clear plastic windows, etc.
Testors in the black bottle may have a very minute amount of MEK in it, but not enough to hurt you.
The black bottle Testors glue lasts a long time !
My ignorance is showing but...What is MEK? Thanks for helping this dolt!!!
Marc_Magnus I have always used ready to use plastic glue, I have avoid to try to use chemicals product like MEK or other solvents;
I have always used ready to use plastic glue, I have avoid to try to use chemicals product like MEK or other solvents;
What do you think the plastic glues are? All of them are some type of solvent.
Testor's liquid cement IS primarily MEK.
Chris van der Heide
My Algoma Central Railway Modeling Blog
jjdamnit Hello All, Micro-Mark® Same Stuff works for me. I first came accros this product at the Original Caboose Hobbies. It was less expensive than the other brands. At the time I wasn't aware of Micro-Mark® as tool supplier. I now purchase it through them. Hope this helps.
Hello All,
Micro-Mark® Same Stuff works for me.
I first came accros this product at the Original Caboose Hobbies. It was less expensive than the other brands.
At the time I wasn't aware of Micro-Mark® as tool supplier.
I now purchase it through them.
Hope this helps.
I find Faller Expert standard setting cement to work well when assembling kits, I tried using Testors plastic cement in the tube a while back and it was quite messy.
For windows I use the Testors Clear Parts Cement to hold the clear styrene in place, works very well if you try to apply the right amount. Too much and it ends up with a blob.
"No one realizes how beautiful it is to travel until he comes home and rests his head on his old, familiar pillow." -Lin Yutang
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I favor Testors liquid cement and I also use Plastruct plastic weld at times.
I still find Testors plastic cement in the red tube fills 90% of my needs for glue. I find Walthers Goo still works for some jobs..
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
MotleyI tried the Tamiya Extra thin cement, and it just dries way too quickly. On parts that are already together its ok to use. But sometimes there are parts that need cemented seperatley, and I use Testors liquid for that.
Hi Motley,
I agree that it does dry quickly. That's why I use a somewhat larger paint brush than the one in the cap. I haven't had any problems using it where the joints can't be lined up first, but I always add more cement once the joint is assembled.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I tried the Tamiya Extra thin cement, and it just dries way too quickly. On parts that are already together its ok to use. But sometimes there are parts that need cemented seperatley, and I use Testors liquid for that.
Michael
CEO- Mile-HI-RailroadPrototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989
doctorwayne However, it [MEK] evapourates much more rapidly than did lacquer thinner, and as a result, is not all that useful when trying to bond items with a large surface area.
However, it [MEK] evapourates much more rapidly than did lacquer thinner, and as a result, is not all that useful when trying to bond items with a large surface area.
For large surface areas I have converted almost entirely to using very thin transfer tape, such as 3M makes. I have it in 1" and 3/4" width rolls. The only downside is that it is unforgiving and you are well advised to get it right the first time.
It works with like materials, styrene to styrene for example, or different materials - paper to styrene, styrene to ABS plastic or wood, that sort of thing. When building a laser cut wood kit recently, the "rolled roof" was peel and stick paper. Because I had painted the paper I had my doubts about how good the stick was on the peel and stick other side. So I belt-and-suspenders-ed it with transfer tape on the microplywood under-roof. I don't think that roof will be peeling up any time soon!
Dave Nelson
Upon finding that MEK worked almsot excactly like Plastruct Plastic weld, I started refilling my Plastic Weld bottle with MEK and have been doing so for quite some time since.
Visit the Chicago Valley Railroad for Chicago Trainspotting and Budget Model Railroading.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
tstage I use two different types: Testors Liquid Cement & Plastruct Plastic Weld.
I use two different types: Testors Liquid Cement & Plastruct Plastic Weld.
Alton Junction
For years, I used ordinary lacquer thinner when working with styrene, but several years ago, they changed the components of it, and while it's still useful as a paint thinner and brush cleaner, it is absolutely useless as a cement for styrene.
I decided to try MEK, as several other modellers had commented on its usefulness with styrene, and bought a gallon of it. While it's considerably more expensive than lacquer thinner (about $40.00 for a gallon of MEK), it works as well as the old lacquer thinner did.However, it evapourates much more rapidly than did lacquer thinner, and as a result, is not all that useful when trying to bond items with a large surface area.
I tried to use MEK to mount some Kingmill building flats on .060" sheet styrene, as I've always done with the original laquer thinner, applying it to the styrene with a 1" brush. However, the area first-done was dry before I was able to completely cover the styrene.After making several applications, I did get it to work, but because some areas were quite wet when I placed the heavy paper images on the styrene, some were distorted when the MEK soaked through to the printed-on image.
Fortunately, the damage is not all that noticeable with the flats on the layout, as they're all in the background.
Wayne
I started using Weld-on 3 after trying many others after pro-weld left the market.
Following the advice in a construction video on DPM structure kits by the well known modeler Miles Hale, I learned of Faller "Expert" and "Super Expert" plastic cements. The long needle applicator is useful although it tends to get clogged. For all I know chemically it is the same stuff as other makes, but it works for me.
https://www.faller.de/gb/en/Products/Model-layout-construction/Utilities/SUPER-EXPERT-Plastic-Glue-25-g-sid9758.html
Interestingly Faller also makes an "Expert" cement specifically for laser cut wood kits as well - same needle applicator but less prone to clogging it seems.
Marc,
I may be wrong but I think you will find that the majority of liquid adhesives mentioned so far have varying degrees of MEK in them. That's what makes them work well. Some may also use solvents like acetone to accomplish the same task.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
I scratch a lot in plastic, using Evergreen parts for the most but also Plastruct one and course some plastic ready to build models.
In Europe were I lived before, I used the simple Humbrol plastic glues work great in any aspect.
I have also used Plastruct liquid glue but I have no any special memories about it.
Now I use Tamiya and Mig liquid glue for a while, they work great, left no residues and are able to glue very little parts without effort.
Tamiya offer, thin, medium and heavy liquid glue all have different use but they all work great.
I have always used ready to use plastic glue, I have avoid to try to use chemicals product like MEK or other solvents; they have too much unknow backside against health and I have never have found the necessity to no use the ready to use glue.
I use them with micro tip brush a small one and a medium one for different use.
Tamiya and Mig glue dry extremely fast even if you need to wait a few hours to have a completely dry join; but the peieces can be manipulated quickly.
dfdf1995 I haven't built a plastic kit in awhile. I just got the MDC Roundhouse Overland passa get cars I ordered on eBay (not ad retail anymore :( ). Appreciate suggestions for liquid plastic cement to use. Also hints from anyone who ha e built these kits. TIA
I haven't built a plastic kit in awhile. I just got the MDC Roundhouse Overland passa get cars I ordered on eBay (not ad retail anymore :( ). Appreciate suggestions for liquid plastic cement to use. Also hints from anyone who ha e built these kits. TIA
I have used pretty much all of the liquid plastic cements. I never noticed much difference between the various brands. I bought a quart can of MEK at the Walmart paint department quite a few years ago and have been using that for gluing styrene plastic. It works as well as any of the other plastic welder cements and is cheaper. The quart can only cost $5, and it will last me the rest of my life. The solvent is strong enough to cut thru grease and oil and finger prints so cleaning the joint is not an issue. It will not cut thru paint. If you paint the model before assembly you will need to sand or scrape the paint off the mating surfaces. The solvent cements have no gap filling properties so the joint must fit tightly. You may need to file the mating surfaces flat. And file off mold parting lines and other lumps and bumps to make a good tight fitting joint.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
I've been using the same bottle of Testors liquid plastic cement for 10 or 15 years now. It does a great job for me, and definitely has a long shelf life!
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I really don't think there is a best. They all work in basically the same way, and different people have their preference.
I use Testors Liquid Cement For Plastic Models mostly because I find the odor the heast objectionable. I have used almost all the known brands, all have worked for me.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Hi dfdf1995
I use Tamiya liquid cement depending on what I am doing I use the white lid the thicker one or the green lid a thin one there is one with an orange lid but I don't know what thickness that one is.
I just use the brush attatched to the jar lid.
It is a very long time since I built any Roundhouse kits but they are usualy painted, and if you shake the box it will almost fall together.
The very simplicety of the kits is the trap for careless stupid mistake construction so take your time and don't rush.
Glue from the inside so you don't spoil the outside finish.
A little very carefully applied plastic cement is plenty.
It may be necassary to give any holes a little clean to make sure there is no paint in them and parts stick.
Use great care to get bogie (truck) mounting screws straight or you will end up having to drill an over size hole and sleeve with plastic tubing, or the truck won't sit straight, don't over tighten the screw or bogies won't pivot freely.
Also the plastic may have gone brittle with age so do take care in construction just in case.
regards John
Dave,
Thanks for the heads up on the Tamiya liquid cement. I'm a big fan of their paints so I might give that one a try when my current Testors bottle runs out.
For general kit assembly where appearance is paramount, I use Testors. For a bond that will be hidden and/or for a connection where I want a REALLY strong bond that I don't EVER want to come apart, I use Plastruct.
Testors (or MEK) is thin and has really good capillary action - i.e. it will pull itself into a tight seam or hole, leaving a clean appearance after it dries. I use a small natural hair artist brush to apply it. The Plastruct is a little more viscous and more agressive so you have to be careful applying it. I use the brush that comes with the jar for do that.
Hi dfdf1995,
I recommend Tamiya's Extra Thin Cement. It works quickly and forms a strong bond. A little goes a long way. I don't usually use the brush that comes in the cap. I find that a slightly larger brush works much better.
https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=TAMR8738&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=towerhobbies&utm_content=80882863074083&utm_campaign=B_DSA_NB_Desktop&utm_id=bi_cmp-329510800_adg-1294125302030127_ad-80882863074083_dat-2332682637821408:loc-32_dev-c_ext-_prd-&msclkid=5812c6e401541937e775986effd20550
I haven't built a plastic kit in awhile. I just got the MDC Roundhouse Overland passanger cars I ordered on eBay (not available retail anymore :( ). Appreciate suggestions for liquid plastic cement to use. Also hints from anyone who has built these kits. TIA