So I'm relatively new to the hobby and started a small 4x8 DC layout using all code 83 track. I just installed the final switch and when I went to run a train on it, nothing happened. train would not move. But the second the switch is disconnes the t has power again
It sounds like a power feed problem. Sometimes the weight of the engine will be enough to loosen a weak rail joiner connection, so you should have many power paths in case one fails. Soldering feeders to rails and sometimes soldering track sections together at the joiners is also done.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
You could have a polarity problem, whould have to see the plan to tell.
Yep, show us a track plan.
Rich
Alton Junction
Others are thinking you have a reversing loop, which is my thought too. If there is no reversing loop, Atlas turnouts do not require insulated rail joiners.
I have read of internal faults in the Atlas turnout so that the rails beyond the frog do not have power, but that shouldn't kill the whole layout.
Posting a picture in this forum is unlike most forums. It needs to be hosted somewhere like IMGbb, Flickr or Imgur. Not facebook or google and you can't paste just the picture in your post with Windows copy and paste. There is a sticky in this General forum at the top of the page on how to do it.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Note that your first few posts are moderated, so they will not appear right away. That soon goes by.
richhotrain Yep, show us a track plan. Rich
For example, is it an oval with a track running across to middle of the oval to connect with the other side of the oval? Is it an oval with a figure X inside? Etc.
the madison central layout. Only difference is I added an additional siding for a lumber yard behind the town. An old atlas brass switch works in place of the new one. The seller took it back and is sending me a new one but im still curious as to what caused the whole layout to go dark. You can have a train running and no problem and touch the joiners of the siding to the switch and it stops. Even directly over the feed wires. Stop touching them together and the train starts up like nothing happened
Sounds like there is no issue with the Atlas turnout. They are pretty foolproof electronically.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
No reverse loop.
Link works. OP, sure sounds like a bad turnout, unless the feeders got mixed up somehow.
Also, nice job on the layout so far.
Gary
What about feeding power from both sides of the turnout? Maybe it isn't passing through.
Thank you! It is not the best but I'm pretty happy for my first attempt!
Looses power or shorts out.
From a wiring standpoint, it is a pretty simple layout. So, it is either a faulty turnout or crossed wires, unless there is simply a loss of power for some reason.
riogrande5761 Looses power or shorts out.
This would probably be the 5th or 6th one like this I heard about - if it shorts, it seems the problem is the plastic didn't fillt he mold properly under the frog. The closure rails cross under there plus the frog on top, so there are 3 layes of metal and 4 layes of plastic keeping them all insulated from each other. If the layer between the two closure rails isn't filled in, those two will touch each other and there will be a short no matter which way the points face, or where you apply power.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Ringo58 In the picture its the turnout in front of the box cars
In the picture its the turnout in front of the box cars
Hello All,
Great looking pike!
I too have a 4'x8'. I've been working on mine for 6-years and all I've gotten done is ballast the mainline.
Which switch are you referring to?
riogrande5761Looses power or shorts out.(?)
If you lose power, is it the entire pike (layout) or a siding?
Are these Atlas "Snap Switches" or "Custome Line"?
Do you have a multimeter?
If you don't you should be able to pick an inexpensive one online, at your local hardware store or big-box store for less than $30.00- -and that's being generous.
Get a digital one, they are easier to read over the analog ones.
DC is relatively easy to diagnose.
Not knowing your electrical experience I'm going to get pretty basic. I apologize in advance if this is too basic.
First, remove all the motive power (locomotives) from your pike.
Put the multimeter in the DC mode and check the outputs of your cab (power pack).
The red probe from the meter goes to the positive ("+") side and the black probe goes to the negative ("-") side.
Crank up the power and you should get 12 VDC at full power. (If you reverse the probes on the multimeter you will get -12 VDC. Not a big deal but it also tells you which pole [output] of the cab is "+" and which is "-")
If you don't get 12 VDC at full power there is something wrong with your cab.
Keeping the cab at full power (12 VDC) and keeping in mind which rail is "+" and which is "-" put the appropriate probe on the appropriate rail and you should get a consistent 12 VDC on the main loop.
Next, throw the switches on the sidings and meter those rails. Again, you should get a consistent 12 VDC.
If you don't get 12 VDC on a particular section you have discovered the problem.
Turn the power to the pike off.
Put the multimeter in "Continuity" or "Beeper" mode [›+ or )))))].
On the same rail; either "+" or "-" and you should get a tone or "Beep". That is good! If you don't get a continuity tone or "Beep" this means there is a break between the two points (an unintentional "gap").
With the points of the switch aligned straight, meter each side of the points of each rail. You should get a "Beep".
Switch the points to the diverging route and you should get a "Beep" on each rail to the diverging side.
With the points to the diverging route go back to the straight rails and see if you can get a "Beep" (if you do get a "Beep" this is not good).
If you don't get a "Beep" on the straight tracks with the points thrown to the diverging tracks this is good.
Go back and crank up the power to the tracks.
Put the meter back in DC mode and meter. Throw the points to the diverging route(s) and meter between the rails on the diverging routes.
If you don't get 12 VDC on the diverging routes that means the turnout is faulty.
Pay attention to the polarity of the track and the meter- -"+" to "+", "-" to "-".
If you meter across the rails and the meter shows "-" VDC there is a problem with a turnout, which checking continuity should have borne out.
Keep us in the loop (pardon the pun).
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
richhotrain Ringo58 In the picture its the turnout in front of the box cars The turnout that splits into the two yard tracks or the turnout coming off the mainline? Rich
The turnout that splits into the two yard tracks or the turnout coming off the mainline?
Ringo If you click on your picture in Imgur, you should see it with a list of ways to share it on the right. Choose BB Code and copy it. Paste it directly into the text of your post, without and link or picture icons
Ringo58The yard
Wich turnout?
Is it the diverging leg off the main loop or the switch between the legs of the yard?
Atlas switches, unlike PECO, are not power routing.
I just did a continuity check of both the "Snap" and "Custom Line" switches on my pike (with the power off) to confirm this.
I suspect it is a faulty turnout.