I need to add weight to some freight cars with split shots (the kind used in fishing). What number (or type) of suitable split shots to order? I don't plan on putting a lot of small weights on each car that needs it.
Yes, there are other ways to add weight, but split shots are fairly cheap and easy to order.
Thanks!
I also use birdshot. Got a bunch of the old school lead. Stocked up when I heard it was going to be outlawed for hunting (I don't shoot critters except in survival situations), so I don't know if that's still available.
What's nice about bird shot vs larger forms of weights, is you can squeeze it into all sorts of places. I typically use an overlay of epoxy to fix it in place, although I've also used CA.
Another handy alternative to lead is tungsten putty. Woodland Scenics has a line of Pinewood Derrby cars and that's where I typically get it from. It's heavy, but it's putty, so it can be stuck in all sorts of places.
Used to get it at Hobby Lobby, but they came out with their own line of Pinewood Derby stuff and seem to have dropped carrying Woodland's line. Tried the HL version, but it's not good for many model railroading purposes. I frequnetly stick the putty to the underside of locos to help with tractive effort. Problem is the HL stuff droops, causing the loco to stop in its tracks as the drooping putty comes in contact with the rails. Given that the putty's big advantage over lead shot is that it is self-sticking, which causes drooping putty to lose its advanatgae
I've been finding another version of the tungsten putty at the hobby shop made by Derby Worx, which has also been priced cheapest. It's not quite as sticky as the Woodland stuff, so is usable but much better than the HL stuff at staying put.
At ~$10/oz, tungsten putty is much more expensive than shot, but often gets wieght into places on locos much more handily than shot will do.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
I make simple moulds out of sheet aluminum, then melt-down used wheel-balancing weights (available free at most places that do wheel balancing) to create custom weights of a size and shape to suit almost any situation...
There's some more info on it to be found HERE
Wayne
The lower the number the larger the diameter of the shot. #8 used for dove is 0.09" in diameter while #2 formerly legal for goose is 0.15". It is easier to deal with fewer shot that more if you need an ounce or more. The size difference does not matter in terms of ease of use. That #2 weighs on 0.01 ounce.
If you know any waterfowl hunters, they may have shot shells they will never be able to use.
There is buckshot, which also comes as a #2; that is more than 1/4" in diameter, too big in my opinion.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
"Liquid Gravity" is a product I recently used to fill a horseshoe-shaped tank on a "Saddletank" locomotive with weight.
It seems to be a coated steel shot but the size makes it "pourable" and can fill voids easier than a larger size bead. I sealed it in place using a thinned PVA-type cement.
Good Luck, Ed
BigDaddyt is easier to deal with fewer shot that more if you need an ounce or more. The size difference does not matter in terms of ease of use.
Henry,
You're right, bigger shot is easier to use. You have to be careful of the smaller stuff getting loose on you, as it gets pretty slippery in the smaler sizes. But there are reason to use the smaller stuff that make it a useful option.
Sometimes you have a constrained space, especially when adding to the underside of things. For any size shot, it's minimum depth is a function of its diameter. You can hide birdshot in places that split shot would result in the added weight being visibly sticking out.
"Ease of use" can be very much in the eye of the beholder and there are tradeoffs in whaterver is used. The best weight is what works well for your application, but it's sometimes not the easiest solution.
I too use lead shot I use #9
I usually just pour it onto places such as in the bays of covered hoppers or on the underside of flatcars & afix it by spraying it with a mist of isopropyl achohol & applying diluted white glue mixture as you would with ballast etc
After it's dry I put a couple of coats of paint over it to protect a person should they come in contact with the location. The paint also helps seal any loose beads
dbduckI too use lead shot I use #9
Me too.
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Great responses. I like that there are multiple options available. Now to find the one that makes the mose sense.
i rely on shot, actually no 7 1/2, non graphite coated, for weight ...
the reason ?? i can get it here at very low cost locally, no need to order it ... fishing split shot is substantially larger, and comes in very small quantities ..
where as shot comes in ten pound bags .. and i can just drive down town for it ..
Many years ago I worked for a helicopter company that made aircraft for the Navy. They had weight bags for testing. A bag would split once in a while. I had all the bird shot I needed.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
I get a lead sheet from Amazon. If I remember correctly it is 1/16" thick. I can cut it with a pair of scissors to fit under most rolling stock that has a steel plate. It can be cut to fit a lot of odd places.
Lead
I get sheet lead from my lumber yard. Roofers use it for flashing. Quite cheap. It will cut with sissors but I use small tin snips. I stick it down in place with acrylic caulking compound.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
1/4" or smaller lead wire can be useful, soft enough to be shaped with pliers, hammer, and or a vice. I've been having success using silicone adhesive to glue the weight in place.
Regards, Peter
SouthPenn I get a lead sheet from Amazon. If I remember correctly it is 1/16" thick. I can cut it with a pair of scissors to fit under most rolling stock that has a steel plate. It can be cut to fit a lot of odd places. Lead
Deano