That brush looks a lot like most of my brushes.I do the usual, by the right brush for the paint type, store the brushes upright/not on the bristles, clean after use, avoid dipping so far into the paint that the ferruls get coated (I used to do this a lot back in the day-oops), rolls to reform the tip after use, before putting the brush away...eventually (sooner rather than later) the brush gets the frizzies. Bah!I recall posting a question on this forum a few years back about keeping paint brush tips neat and sharp, can't readily find it now...
That does not look like a cheap brush to me.
On the other hand, it has clearly had flat paint allowed to wick up into the ferrule, and allowed to dry there without being cleaned. And by that I mean thoroughly cleaned; you need to go several minutes past when the brush 'looks' clean before it actually is.
It also looks to me as if a painting technique involving 'pushing' the bristles into or around objects has been used -- I apologize in advance if that assumption is wrong.
I have been tempted to wonder whether ultrasonic agitation in a proper sequence of surfactants/solvents would properly remove caked paint from the heel of a brush or, indeed, a contaminated region inside the metal of the ferrule, without degrading or damaging the material of the bristles (or causing further swelling of susceptible synthetics.
Something 'else' that can happen to brushes used with flat paints is that abrasion 'between' bristles due to the grain in the 'pigment' can cause progressive surface fraying, which in the aggregate leads to softening and accelerated swell of bristles similar to what we may see here. I am not sure whether changes in brush technique might reduce this, for example using slower or smaller strokes or rotating the brush more frequently a la drafting lead while working.
This is odd! I've never seen that before. Have you tried using mineral spirits to clean the brush? Is that splitting a function of brush quality or technique or both?
I use Masters Brush Cleaner to "dress" my brushes after I clean them. Brissels keep their shape and remain pliable for years. I have had the same small tub of this stuff for years. Still works on all paints.
trainnut1250If you are painting 3D items, it is harder on a brush. My wife has some very nice paint brushes from years ago that are still perfect. These are only used on paper and canvas on 2D surfaces. By contrast, I cycle through brushes that are used to paint models.
I disagree with this completely. I exclusively paint 3D objects, and my good paint brushes last for years and years with abusive levels of usage.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Onewolf Cheap brush? Old/wornout brush? Improper brushing technique? Improper cleaning technique? Many of my brushes end up like this after being used many times.
Cheap brush?
Old/wornout brush?
Improper brushing technique?
Improper cleaning technique?
Many of my brushes end up like this after being used many times.
Congratulations!! You are wearing out paint brushes!!!! I would say "any of the above" as to reasons why that brush looks the way it does...
I regularly do the same thing to brushes. I think there are several factors:
If you are painting 3D items, it is harder on a brush. My wife has some very nice paint brushes from years ago that are still perfect. These are only used on paper and canvas on 2D surfaces. By contrast, I cycle through brushes that are used to paint models.
Then there is my brush technique. The brush gets crushed when I press into the nooks and crannies of a detail casting or part when applying a base coat.
Another way I trash them is when painting things with a rough coat such as car underbodies or trucks, and scenery. You can save time by going fast and being aggressive with the application. The downside is the brushes get beat up.
One thing that helps is to wet the brush and pull it into its original shape and hopefully it will dry back in form. Eventually the brush can get too far gone and this won't work.
I do a lot of brush painting. I like the feel of a good paint brush with paint on a surface, so I buy brushes at the art store on a regular basis to keep the stock fresh. They always seem to have one brand or another on sale.
Your brush in the pic has paint in the ferule and looks pretty whipped. How old is that brush? How many models did it paint? Somehow, I think you got your money’s worth.
BTW: Very nice layout – keep jammin’
Guy
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site
One lesson I learned from my wife regarding proper cleaning and storage of paint brushes was the use of regular hand soap on them after cleaning. I keep a bar of hand soap on my work bench and when a brush needs cleaning, after the paint is removed with lacquer thinner, I brush it on the bar soap whilst still wet. This keeps the bristles clean and soft. I have some paint brushes that have been in use for over 30 years.
Also, NEVER store the puppies on their bristles as was mentioned.
Don; Prez, CEO or whatever of the Wishram, Oregon and Western RR
Cheap brushs or expencive, if you get too much paint in the ferule it will cause this and ussually this can not be fixed. Used to be good brushes were expencive but nowadays if you know what to look for, they can be real cheap. Clean your brushes well after use, especially the ferule.
hon30critter Mark R. Once I started buying brushes made for solvent paints, I've never had the problem again .... Hi Mark, I use both acrylics and solvent based paints. Can you recommend a particular brand for use with the solvent based paints? I just bought some high quality brushes for acrylics made by Winsor & Newton that were suggested by Kevin, so I want to buy some decent brushes for the enamels too. Thanks, Dave
Mark R. Once I started buying brushes made for solvent paints, I've never had the problem again ....
Hi Mark,
I use both acrylics and solvent based paints. Can you recommend a particular brand for use with the solvent based paints? I just bought some high quality brushes for acrylics made by Winsor & Newton that were suggested by Kevin, so I want to buy some decent brushes for the enamels too.
Thanks,
Dave
The brushes are stored horizontal in a plastic 'utensil' tray.
I use them 80-90% for acrylic paints and 10-20% for solvent paints.
I don't use these brushes for dry brushing.
When painting acrylic I use warm soapy water to clean.
When painting solvent I use lacquer thinner to clean.
Modeling an HO gauge freelance version of the Union Pacific Oregon Short Line and the Utah Railway around 1957 in a world where Pirates from the Great Salt Lake founded Ogden, UT.
- Photo album of layout construction -
If paint in the ferrule is causing the britles to spread, that is a problem.
This brush cleaner, drom Deco-Art, does a great job of getting dried up water sluable paint out of the bristles.
If it is solvent based paint in the ferrule, you might be doomed.
Getting paint in the ferrule (not sure I'm spelling that correct..the part where the brush meets the metal) will cause the hairs up there to gunk up and dry out and when you use it again the lower part of the hairs can split. I'm not sure if that is what caused this but when dipping the brush into paint try not to let it go up to the metal.
Mark R.Once I started buying brushes made for solvent paints, I've never had the problem again ....
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Cleaning brushes with hot water can cause this.
Some brushes have a wax that positions the bristles in the ferrule. Washing with hot water can cause that wax to melt, wick into the bristles, or deform.
Judging by the ferrule, this does ot look like a quality brush, so the hot water/wax might not be the poblem.
Still, hot water can deform cheap synthetic bristles as well. Hot water should be avoided.
Aleen's makes an excellent bristle shaper compound, but it only works on natural fur brushes.
I've had some do that over the years and I never abuse them or stand them on the bristles. What I ultimately learned, was to the buy the proper bristle for the type of paint I use. I never use acrylic paint (always lacquers or enamels) and I was buying brushes made for acrylics or just cheap whatever brushes. Once I started buying brushes made for solvent paints, I've never had the problem again .... it also meant paying $10.00 and more (much more) per brush, but it's worth it in the long run.
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
probably improper storage technique ... they really aren't made to stand on the bristles
Are you storing them standing on the bristle end?