ATLANTIC CENTRALNow that is just too freaky, we really do have to get together when you get up this way.
Here is a picture of the ATLANTIC CENTRAL boxcar that I made long before I knew of your ACR. As you can see, the reporting marks are a little different.
I will be up there for the Timonium show the first weekend of October, and I am looking forward to it.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
SeeYou190 ATLANTIC CENTRAL 1950's early enclosed Timken Roller Bearing trucks, correct for the few cars with roller bearings in the early 50's, so I use them. The only train car I have without Kadee trucks is this style, and believe it or not... it is an ATLANTIC CENTRAL boxcar! -Kevin
ATLANTIC CENTRAL 1950's early enclosed Timken Roller Bearing trucks, correct for the few cars with roller bearings in the early 50's, so I use them.
The only train car I have without Kadee trucks is this style, and believe it or not... it is an ATLANTIC CENTRAL boxcar!
Now that is just too freaky, we really do have to get together when you get up this way.
Sheldon
ATLANTIC CENTRAL1950's early enclosed Timken Roller Bearing trucks, correct for the few cars with roller bearings in the early 50's, so I use them.
I do use some plastic sprung trucks, but I prefer metal ones.
The once Lindberg, then EB, now sold by JJCL Model Train Shop, plastic sprung trucks offer 1950's early enclosed Timken Roller Bearing trucks, correct for the few cars with roller bearings in the early 50's, so I use them.
I still have a small stock of Central Valley sprung trucks as well.......
And fair collection of original Athearn and Varney metal sprung trucks.
Again, it is not about being "sprung", it is about being "equalized".
Attuvian I also have replaced all my older, brown sprung Walthers trucks. With one-piece frames and Intermountain wheel sets. I wonder if there's anyone out there that has a special place in their heart for the originals (hint, hint) . . . Before I consider relegating them to paint jobs and use on MoW equipment, that is. John
I also have replaced all my older, brown sprung Walthers trucks. With one-piece frames and Intermountain wheel sets. I wonder if there's anyone out there that has a special place in their heart for the originals (hint, hint) . . . Before I consider relegating them to paint jobs and use on MoW equipment, that is.
John
Same here. I think I still have my old Walthers sprung trucks but yeah, I didn't care for them myself. I was younger then and better dexterity and recall no major issues getting the spring installed. But they were mushy and kind wierd although the did operate. Putting them on the track was a bit hard due to them being kind of twisty and squirelly with those springs.
I decided to rebel and swim against the tide and put them in the parts box and installed the once piece that didn't cost much. Problem solved.
Of course if any one really really wants them, I'd be willing to give up the old spring trucks.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
My success rate for inserting or replacing springs in Kadee #5s and sprung trucks is depressingly unpredictable but safe to say, low for first tries.
I have taken to cheating slightly in both types (coupler and truck) of spring insertion challenges by using the tiniest amount of adhesive, something sticky like Goo or various tacky glues, but the smallest amount, placed on one "nubbin" that holds the spring, and then use the sharp knife blade technique. That small bit of adhesive gives me just enough help holding the spring in place while I try to maneuver the "loose" end of the spring on the other nubbin. And for trucks it also helps because now you have to insert the second spring, too, which often otherwise undoes the first success.
In looking at my 1961 Car Builders Cyclopedia, it is interesting that springs come (or at least came back then) in a sort of package of 5 springs with top and bottom sheets holding them in place, and the package would be inserted into a truck.
Dave Nelson
Well, I know I swim against the tide on this issue, but I prefer sprung trucks. Not for appearance, but for their equalized operation.
I just use the tip of an exacto knife to install the springs, been doing it since 1968 at age 11. All my original Athearn and Varney cars had sprung trucks.....
Today I'm a little OCD about trucks. Most of my freight cars have Kadee sprung trucks refitted with Intermountain wheel sets. After much testing this provedto be as free rolling as any rigid truck, and has much better tracking.
I pull long trains, good tracking is important....appearance takes a back seat to operation.
Years ago I bought a Walthers MOW car set that came with the brown unassembled flexible trucks. I managed to assemble a couple of them but I didn't think that the time and effort was worthwhile so I decided to use Athearn solid archbar trucks instead. Some hobby challenges are enjoyable and definitely worth the time. Others are not.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
While sprung trucks have been around for quite some time, I've come to find them less than realistic, especially due to the see-through nature of them. Over time, I added view blocks behind the scrawny spring packages (most real trucks have more than two springs per side) making them not quite so glaringly incorrect.
In most cases, it's a piece of black plastic, either ca'd in-place or affixed with epoxy. Here's one from Kadee...
Many years ago, I had a True-Scale caboose, with metal trucks with leaf springs. While the springs were definitely not springy, they looked pretty good, so when I saw some of the springs at a now-long-gone LHS, I quickly bought a package or two, with intentions to add them, in place of the coil springs in the Kadee trucks under all of my cabooses.While the leaf springs appeared to be made from the same phosphor-bronze material as those on the TrueScale caboose, they had no "spring" to them at all - when compressed to be fitted into the Kadee trucks, they remained compressed, allowing the trucks to simply fall apart.
I used the tip of a knife blade to re-spread the compressed leaf springs, but it was still difficult to to get them to stay in place. I finally resorted to re-installing the original coil springs to keep the too-squishable leaf springs in place...
They might benefit from view blocks, too.I have a number of those plastic sprung trucks, from both Train Miniature and Walthers, under some Athearn two-bay hoppers, and when loaded, the springs actually compress realistically, even with the view blocks in place. I quite like the effect.
Wayne
mlehmanI have a couple of Kadee #241 "Dual Tool" (SNIP) They are blue.
My Dual Tool is yellow, and the spring portion does not work very well. Maybe the blue ones are an improvement.
I have never been good at uncoupling with a pick.
I have a couple of Kadee #241 "Dual Tool" items that I recently bought (so hoping they are out there for others.) It is both an uncoupling tool (best one yet for their 714 and new 705) for couplers and a spring pic. They are blue. Haven't needed to try it with springs yet, but it's an alternative worth looking into.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
As Antonio said, the Kadee #235 is the best. Unfortunately, it is not available any longer. The new yellow tool does not work as well with truck springs.
I was never happy with Walthers sprung trucks. I would just buy Kadees.
Some of my older Walther kits (2 bay Airslides) game with brown multipiece trucks with the springs. Ultimately I did not care for the look fo them - the springs being unrealistically fine, among other things. I ended up replacing all of them with one piece trucks.
Foor for thought anyway.
Regarding coupler springs:
I was frustrated with how on my spring replacement tasks, a number of the springs that I attempted to install, wound up flying at "warp speed into the galactic wormhole"!
With some skepticism, I bought a Kadee #235 Spring Tool. It made my life so much easier! It was more than worth the $2 and change.
Tip: When inserting the tool's tip into a spring, don't go for the center as I did in the photo. I found that if you aim towards one end of the spring, inserting the spring into the KD coupler's mounts becomes even easier and faster.
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
Da Stumer ...a trick I've used is to thread the springs on a length of thin thread. The thread should be thin enough that it doesn't interfere with the mounting process, and it prevents the spring from flying off into the abyss....
Good tip, Peter.
I recall those trucks from the years when they were offered by Train Miniature (one of my favourites). Before assembling anything, carefully remove the flash from all pieces, especially on the ends of the bolsters and the openings in the sideframes, into which the bolsters fit. This will allow the trucks to flex as they pass over any irregularities in the track.
There were lots of complaints about poor tracking, and it can be traced directly to excessive flash in those areas.
For coupler springs, which I assume are mounted similarly, a trick I've used is to thread the springs on a length of thin thread. The thread should be thin enough that it doesn't interfere with the mounting process, and it prevents the spring from flying off into the abyss. I then stick a knife or screwdriver in from the side of the spring to compress one end as I mount it.
-Peter. Mantua collector, 3D printing enthusiast, Korail modeler.
The trick with coupler knuckle springs is to use the blade of a hobby knife to hold them. Dunno if this will work on truck springs or not. Keepign the pieces all aligned without them snapping over and collapsing is a real trick - if you have a lot to do, I would suggest building a jig, doesn;t have to be fancy, just some scraps of styrene glued together to hold the parts in the correct orientation so a little side pressure before getting the wheelsets in doesn;t collapse them.
The screw together ones - you kind of need 4 hands for that, to hold everything together while simultaneously getting the screws in place and tightened. Some people call this fun as-is. The second or third time it all fell apart in my hand, I'd quit for the night. Anything can be at least a little help - dab of wax or modeling clay on the screwdriver to hold the screw is another good trick.
Like other tedious hobby items, it seems the more you do, the better you get at it. My personal example is P2K tank car kits. They have lots of fragile grab irons that are hard to even get off the sprue without breaking, let alone assembled to the body. The first one I tried, I have up in frustration and didn't go back for probably a year. Then I took a fresh look at it and figured some things out, and by the third one I put together, I could do it in an hour from opening the box.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
A tiny touch of grease (LaBelle or other suitable that is plastic-compatible) on the tip of as kinfe blade will help keep it together until you can delicately "squish" it into place on the truck. Keep your work area clean and birghtly lit to make finding stray springs easier.
I have a bunch of older Walthers kits with trucks that must be assembled. I remember being able to do that years ago but I'm now struggling with the insertion of the springs. They were always "a lot of fun" to do but hasn't the hobby evolved with respect to that task? Is there any way to make the job less time consuming other than buying preassembled ones?