I'd like to see BigDaddy's above photo with the bottom gear cover removed and photographed looking stright down on the truck. Right now there is to much black axle gear part showing at the bottom right wheel in above photo.
There is a second metal plate (looks black) that mates tight up against the plastic side frame (lower plastic side frame in photo) and the silver metal plate. It's not really clear in the above photo but it looks not to be in place.
BigDaddy did say "Walthers'' wheel/gear repair kit. Can anybody check the Walthers's kit measurments to Athearn's? Are the two gears identical? Athearn's OAL is .360''. And the Athearn gear is centered on the part. Could the Walthers's gear not be centered on the part? So many thoughts.
I don't know what's going on with your axle, Henry. On an Athearn, and these P2K's were complete Athearn clones, as Mark said, that bottom cover keeps the bearing block from moving in.
Did you check the wheel spacing on the new axles? Don't know if that has anything to do with it, but the way that axle sits in there doesn't look right.
Mike.
My You Tube
Mark R. The bottom gear case cover "should" keep the bearings from moving too far inward. Hard to tell from the picture .... is the cover snapped down tight in that corner ? Mark.
The bottom gear case cover "should" keep the bearings from moving too far inward. Hard to tell from the picture .... is the cover snapped down tight in that corner ?
Mark.
What Mark said.''Should''.
BigDaddy The metal side frame resisted bending especially the end toward the center. Prior to that, the plastic sideframes were tight, the bottom covers were tight and there was room for the bearing to move out of the metal frame, despite the bottom cover being in place. We will see how it does.
The metal side frame resisted bending especially the end toward the center.
Prior to that, the plastic sideframes were tight, the bottom covers were tight and there was room for the bearing to move out of the metal frame, despite the bottom cover being in place. We will see how it does.
You do not bend the metal side plates at the center, you bend them slightly inwards at their ends, the tabs the farthest out from center that ''nest'' the bronze bearing.
The side frames may have been tight, but I see one not set all the way in place in your picture above. That's what I was going on.
I checked my OAL of the ATHEARN PART, ATH 60024 replacement gear, .360''.
After I drop the newly assembled axle gears into place I mark on both black sleeves that receive the metal axle shaft, left and right of the gear, with a pink paint dot. I then snap on the gear cover and pink paint dot that on both ends over the gears. Then I pull the Loco's repair card (cards also show DCC board make and #, CV #'s and settings, bulbs, etc.) and document the repair.
From now on, a quick flip over will tell me which Locos. had their gears replaced.
Thanks for the suggestions. I didn't want to take apart my DCC installation. The metal side frame resisted bending especially the end toward the center.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Bigdaddy, Yes, in your picture I can see the brass rivet down in between the truck and metal side frame. Push the side frame in tighter. Check the other ones also. Since you had it on rails, I'd guess, you did gauge your wheels, right?
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
gmpullman Once I have the bearings in place (after an axle/gear swap) I've never had a problem with the Life-Like bearings wandering out of their "nests". I have on occasion given that short "tab" at the outside of the metal retainer (extreme left and right of your photo) a very slight inward bend which helps keep the square bearing in place. Works for me, anyway. Good Luck, Ed
Once I have the bearings in place (after an axle/gear swap) I've never had a problem with the Life-Like bearings wandering out of their "nests". I have on occasion given that short "tab" at the outside of the metal retainer (extreme left and right of your photo) a very slight inward bend which helps keep the square bearing in place.
Works for me, anyway.
Good Luck, Ed
I have bent a few side plates in at the ends also.
BigDaddy, I see more then should be gap between the side metal plate and plastic side frame. (the lower side frame in your picture). Reline the bearings and squeeze the side frame, see if it moves inward for a tight fit. Buy the way, that bronze bearing should measure .092'' thick/side to side.
Now I found cracked gears on my GP9b.
Funny Ed.
No sense in starting a third thread about this Geep as there is already a second one here
I installed the Walthers wheel sets that replace the gear that broke on the old ones, nickle silver wheels and bearings. The bearings are very loose and want to migrate inwards toward the gear.
I was hoping this wouldn't be a problem but in setting up the decoder with the lokprogramer, I had to set CV2=7 to avoid a jerky motion and that didn't entirely solve the problem. I did test the loco on DC prior to decoder installation, but I can't say I tried it dead slow, as that particular piece of track is dirty.
Putting the bearing back where it belongs, allowed me to drop CV2=2 I turned the loco back over and there is a different bearing that looks like it will migrate inward.
Do I have to shim the bearings with Kadee washers?
BigDaddy —but other than that, I don't see a lot of use for it.
THIS is really what they're supposed to be used for
Glue_bottle by Edmund, on Flickr
At least that's what I find them handy for
.
Regards, Ed
Yes thank you gentlemen, it must be the door opener, which lead me to look at the all black cab figures. I will be it lots of fun painting them. I don't know how you war gamers do it.
The doors on the long hood open. I suppose I could use it to stage pictures of a crewman on the walkway, but other than that, I don't see a lot of use for it.
The instructions on how to use the door opener are at the bottom of the parts page:
https://hoseeker.net/lifelikeenginediagrams/lifelikeproto2000gp7IIpg2.jpg
The door openers came with the Proto Es and Fs too, but I could never figure out why they bothered. The doors were spring loaded so they closed as soon as the door opener was removed. The instructions for the E6 say to "pull the door open" which can't be done because the doors opened into the cab. Strange!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Does the model have any doors, hoods or hatches that you can open? That's the only time I've seen anything like that.
PS. Michael must have posted while I typed.
The original GP18 by Proto had cab doors you could open. That wire is the handle to open the doors.
Disclaimer: This post may contain humor, sarcasm, and/or flatulence.
Michael Mornard
Bringing the North Woods to South Dakota!
In the parts kit is a wire, perfect circle on one end, a right angle on the other, 4" long and about 0.01" thick, just eyeballing length and diameter.
What is it for ?