So I've got around to taking pictures of my collection of Locomotives, and have test ran them as well. The track was old and dirty, so some of the performance from the locos could be caused by that, I know that. But other than a few, I really dont know what they are in terms of manufacturer, and I'm not sure if parts are available for them or not, if they are even worth fixing. I have just about nothing into these locos. With closing on our house on the 20th a final decision for a layout will be made then, so for now I figured I could work on the locos.
Ive put a short description of the locos on how they ran, and then the pictures of each.
The 2 Burlingtons are sentimental to me, so I hope they turn out to be decent locos and can be repaired up right, including details that have been broken off. They were ones my grandma let me run as a kid, so they arent going anywhere even if I cant fix them, I'll superglue the one body back and keep them as display locos if I had to.
Army Loco - runs but doesnt take turns, derails instead.i.imgur.com/eP7ueG5.jpgi.imgur.com/7theksb.jpg040 Pennsylvania does run sometimes, sometimes itll just lock up ams quit going. But when it does, it goes like crazy and sparks a lot. I do have the tender, but the connectors dont line up.i.imgur.com/tMudXLQ.jpgi.imgur.com/ibNqIRO.jpgAHM 060T and CN F Unit Both run ok could be cleaned and lubed, butnit might be the very dirty and old track I have set up as a test track. The 060T runs very slow on the track, but again, the track is very old and dirty.i.imgur.com/ERw40Rq.jpgBachmann F Unit definitely needs cleaned and lube, but does run ok.i.imgur.com/H0FeOyM.jpgBachmann Spectrum 44 Tonner same as the AHMs, could be cleaned and lubed, or it could be the track.i.imgur.com/nrwTgPX.jpgi.imgur.com/CDkHmfV.jpgSanta Fe 4 Axle seems like a cleaning could get it going, it does have resistance when in the track, but it doesnt movei.imgur.com/VCrqw6j.jpgi.imgur.com/AOUe1ex.jpgSanta Fe 6 Axle definitely needs cleaned and lubed, sometimes it will move on its own.i.imgur.com/NO5k91E.jpgi.imgur.com/spsk0Ek.jpgUnion Pacific Runs ok, does stop sometimes.i.imgur.com/gnsuWHX.jpgi.imgur.com/6Dv4EAZ.jpgSanta Fe Switcher runs good. But very lightweight in the front, even with just one car it wheelies and doesnt want to pull anything.i.imgur.com/kq3gsuf.jpgi.imgur.com/j6EgKf2.jpgBurlington Switcher seems very dirty. This is a very sentimental loco for me as it was one my grandma let me run as a kid. I'm hoping cleaning it up will get it going again. Also would like to fix all the railings and suchi.imgur.com/ZgSQ94M.jpgi.imgur.com/vIuFIYG.jpgBurlington Road Unit - another sentimental loco, as this was the outer loop loco my grandma let me run as kid. The body is broken, so hopefully I can repair it or get a replacement. Same with the other Burlington as well, but it does move sometimes.i.imgur.com/23s6cSS.jpgi.imgur.com/z4x1bXW.jpgi.imgur.com/qIVSZgz.jpgSanta Fe 4 Axle #2 - Motor goes but it doesnt. It can be pushed freelyi.imgur.com/6Hf20LD.jpgi.imgur.com/QkZuZtm.jpgBlack Switcher Motor goes but it doesnt. It can be pushed freelyi.imgur.com/dnsWUkH.jpgi.imgur.com/ardThtP.jpgChatanooga 080 Motor goes but it doesnt. It can be pushed freelyi.imgur.com/7MV05aH.jpgi.imgur.com/XYoDSk4.jpgPennsylvania F Unit this one wants to go, right off the tracks. Doesnt want to stay on. Also only has the rear truck with the hanging down gear and shaft that's powered.i.imgur.com/NnUyLmA.jpgi.imgur.com/kJWWW2q.jpg
Hi Wdodge0912,
You have your work cut out for you!
I would start by cleaning the track properly. You can't assess a locomotive on dirty track! You can start with some 99% Isopropyl Alcohol and a soft cloth. Your local drug store should carry it. They may have lower concentrations, like 70%, which will still work but it will take more work. Alternately, you can invest in a track cleaning erasor like a 'Bright Boy', or just use some really fine sandpaper. However, if you want to keep the track clean long term then using an aggressive erasor like a Brite Boy or sandpaper will leave scratches in the track that will accumulate dirt quickly and require frequent cleaning. Your best bet would be to 'gleam' the track by rubbing the rails with a large stainless steel washer to burnish them until they are very smooth and shiny.
The next step would be to take each of the locomotives apart, clean them thoroughly and then relubricate them. Isopropyl alcohol and old tooth brushes are great for getting the gunk out. Labelle offers a good selection of lubricants for various applications.
https://labelle-lubricants.com/
Then you need to tune each of the locomotives by checking things like wheel gauge, proper truck rotation, power pick up on all wheels (where possible), check that the frames and side rods are not bent, that the steamers roll smoothly without the motors installed, coupler height and probably several other things that I can't think of right now (senior's moment - others will help out I'm sure). You have a lot of locomotives so what I am suggesting will take some time.
Once you have done all of that you will be able to make more informed decisions about what to keep and what not to.
Sorry, but there aren't any shortcuts that I am aware of to get you there any sooner. Don't look at these tasks like they are a chore. They are part of modelling. Enjoy the process!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I did take a bright boy to the track before testing to locos. It is a mixed track of the silver nickle and brass rail. I worked on the track for a while with the bright boy, before deciding I'll need something more aggressive. I know the track hadn't been touched in over 10 years, at least 15 years ago would be my guess when it was last ran. The worst parts of the track where the rerailer/road crossing parts. It also doesnt help the 4x8 loop only has one spot for power feed either. But right now I'm not concerned too much in the track as that will all be replaced with new eventually.
My main focus is to figure out which locos are worth the effort to fix up. Most of the ones that just need to be cleaned I'll do, but the broken ones, or ones missing peices, if they arent worth saving or will be impossible to fix, I'll go about figuring what to do with them from their (sell, scrap, or just use as a display)
I'm also wanting to figure out who makes the locos, and what the exact models are. So not just if it's a Bachmann or tyco or what not, but also what the engine itself is modeled after.
Copper track? Never heard of that in my 56 years of being a model railroader.
While it is worth giving fixing your engines a try, none of them are really valuables, maybe a sentimental value.
Like Dave said, give them a good cleaning and lubricating job, check the motor brushes (they maybe worn down), check the pick-ups. If that´s all OK, the engine should run, unless there are loose wires. It may be handy to have a volt-/ampere-meter to ckeck, wether the current reaches the motor, res. how much amps are drawn, if it runs.
All of your engines come from a time, when smooth, slow running was not really important. Though somehow to scale, these are toy train engines and cannot be compared to what is currently available on the market.
Happy times!
Ulrich (aka The Tin Man)
"You´re never too old for a happy childhood!"
Here is my assessment of what you have. Some are junky trainset locos that were basically a half step above junk when new, and others are more reasonable products. As a generality, the locos that don't run tend to correlate to the ones that were junk when new. Hopefully, neither you or anyone else will be offended by my assessment.
Army Loco - runs but doesnt take turns, derails instead. JUNKi.imgur.com/eP7ueG5.jpgi.imgur.com/7theksb.jpg040 Pennsylvania does run sometimes, sometimes itll just lock up ams quit going. But when it does, it goes like crazy and sparks a lot. I do have the tender, but the connectors dont line up. JUNKi.imgur.com/tMudXLQ.jpgi.imgur.com/ibNqIRO.jpgAHM 060T and CN F Unit Both run ok could be cleaned and lubed, butnit might be the very dirty and old track I have set up as a test track. The 060T runs very slow on the track, but again, the track is very old and dirty. WORTH KEEPING, maybei.imgur.com/ERw40Rq.jpgBachmann F Unit definitely needs cleaned and lube, but does run ok. WORTH KEEPING, maybei.imgur.com/H0FeOyM.jpgBachmann Spectrum 44 Tonner same as the AHMs, could be cleaned and lubed, or it could be the track. WORTH KEEPING, maybe (check the internet for specific problems with this loco. You likely have the older two motor version.)i.imgur.com/nrwTgPX.jpgi.imgur.com/CDkHmfV.jpgSanta Fe 4 Axle seems like a cleaning could get it going, it does have resistance when in the track, but it doesnt move JUNKi.imgur.com/VCrqw6j.jpgi.imgur.com/AOUe1ex.jpgSanta Fe 6 Axle definitely needs cleaned and lubed, sometimes it will move on its own. JUNKi.imgur.com/NO5k91E.jpgi.imgur.com/spsk0Ek.jpgUnion Pacific Runs ok, does stop sometimes. JUNKi.imgur.com/gnsuWHX.jpgi.imgur.com/6Dv4EAZ.jpgSanta Fe Switcher runs good. But very lightweight in the front, even with just one car it wheelies and doesnt want to pull anything. YOU CAN ADD LEAD BIRDSHOT HELD BY TACKY GLUE TO THE FRONT OF THE BODY/UNDERSHELL. MAY STILL BE JUNK IN THE END.i.imgur.com/kq3gsuf.jpgi.imgur.com/j6EgKf2.jpgBurlington Switcher seems very dirty. This is a very sentimental loco for me as it was one my grandma let me run as a kid. I'm hoping cleaning it up will get it going again. Also would like to fix all the railings and such. AN ATHEARN "BLUE BOX" SW7. A DESIREABLE LOCO THAT'S WORTH FIXING. OLDER VERSION WITH METAL TRUCKS.i.imgur.com/ZgSQ94M.jpgi.imgur.com/vIuFIYG.jpgBurlington Road Unit - another sentimental loco, as this was the outer loop loco my grandma let me run as kid. The body is broken, so hopefully I can repair it or get a replacement. Same with the other Burlington as well, but it does move sometimes. APPEARS TO BE AN ATLAS/KATO RS3, WHICH IS A DESIREABLE LOCO. BODIES AND USED ATLAS/KATO RS3s CAN BE FOUND ON EBAY AND AT TRAINSHOWS, BUT THE LOCO YOU BUY FOR PARTS WILL LIKLEY BE JUST AS GOOD AS, OR BETTER THAN, THE LOCO YOU HAVE. (It may simply need handrails)i.imgur.com/23s6cSS.jpgi.imgur.com/z4x1bXW.jpgi.imgur.com/qIVSZgz.jpgSanta Fe 4 Axle #2 - Motor goes but it doesnt. It can be pushed freely JUNKi.imgur.com/6Hf20LD.jpgi.imgur.com/QkZuZtm.jpgBlack Switcher Motor goes but it doesnt. It can be pushed freely JUNKi.imgur.com/dnsWUkH.jpgi.imgur.com/ardThtP.jpgChatanooga 080 Motor goes but it doesnt. It can be pushed freely MOTOR IS ACTUALLY IN THE TENDER AND THE LOCO IS DESIGNED TO BE PUSHED. IT HAS A SMOKE UNIT IN IT. THE LOCO HAS VALUE TO COLLECTORS SINCE ITS A UNIQUE/NOSTALGIA ITEM DUE TO THE DESIGN. NOT A LOT OF VALUE, BUT SOME PEOPLE LIKE TO HAVE THEM.i.imgur.com/7MV05aH.jpgi.imgur.com/XYoDSk4.jpgPennsylvania F Unit this one wants to go, right off the tracks. Doesnt want to stay on. Also only has the rear truck with the hanging down gear and shaft that's powered. JUNKi.imgur.com/NnUyLmA.jpgi.imgur.com/kJWWW2q.jpg
- Douglas
I went throught the list, and I am in agreement with Douglas on his assessment.
I confess, I don't know much about the steam locos, but as far as the diesels, I'm in with Douglas.
The black switcher needs the rubber bands to run. It looks like the old Athearn "high drive", where the motor spun a shaft, and a rubber band connected the shaft to the fat looking axles.
I'm not a big fan of the Bachmann and Life Like locos, as they are pretty much train set quality, but if they run, it's up to you.
The Bachmann Spectrum I think is worth the effert.
The two Burlingtons, that have the sentimental value are worth keeping.
As it's been pointed out, clean track is a must, no matter if it's NS or brass, in order to get a good assessment.
Mike.
My You Tube
Yes, Douglas summed it up pretty well.........
Sheldon
Tinplate Toddler Copper track? Never heard of that in my 56 years of being a model railroader. While it is worth giving fixing your engines a try, none of them are really valuables, maybe a sentimental value. Like Dave said, give them a good cleaning and lubricating job, check the motor brushes (they maybe worn down), check the pick-ups. If that´s all OK, the engine should run, unless there are loose wires. It may be handy to have a volt-/ampere-meter to ckeck, wether the current reaches the motor, res. how much amps are drawn, if it runs. All of your engines come from a time, when smooth, slow running was not really important. Though somehow to scale, these are toy train engines and cannot be compared to what is currently available on the market.
Not copper track, brass track.
I can't speak for Europe, but in North America brass track was the standard from the beginning of HO until the mid 60's introduction of nickel silver. Even then many modelers continued to use brass, many would not mix the two types, and Atlas continued to offer brass into the 1980's.
All junk but the Atlas and Spectrum (the Baxhmann can be junk also but this depends on a lot of things).
It would appear full enjoyment was gleaned from these trainset quality items and for the most part they can be quietly retired. True, the Bachmann Spectrum GE 44 tonner was considered quite a step up for Bachmann when it was new.
Not all might agree but when you are advised to "junk" I would translate that to mean: save for parts, at least the shells. You never know what project way down the road might call for some vent, cab, louver, whatever. In fact Art Curren's book on kitbashing structures made use of various details chopped off of junked Tyco diesels, some of which show up in your pictures.
Dave Nelson
I just took another look at the Pensy F unit, and it looks like a Hobbytown drive. They have gears like that.
Not that it's better or worse, just something that caught my eye.
It's a HObbyline FA
http://tycotrain.tripod.com/hobbyline/id177.html
On the first of the two pics form the OP, you can see the HObbylien decal on the lower left.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I forgot to include my Athearn F7
http://imgur.com/gallery/ygbUQwV
That one also doesnt run, but I believe it's the metal spring tab thing that brings power to the motor. It has Santa Fe cars with it as well, one just needs a new coupler.
I think what I'll do is find a new body for the Burlington road unit. I might also see about a new body for the switcher, to change to a different rail line I would like to do.
Would those 2 also be worth making DCC?
Depending on what room I get to put my train stuff in, I'll ne doing a switching layout on a half height book case. I figured that could be a nice DCC setup, and use those 2 Burlingtons if they are worth making DCC. Pretty much take up the whole wall. If I get to build in the second living room, I was thinking of having a loop around the room, near the ceiling so it's above the doors. I'd run that Athearn F Unit with it's cars around.
As for the rest, I wont have to fix them, but I'd like to, just to know they would work. I plan to sell of that military set, and the 040 Pennsylvania. I might sell off some others though as well.
I was thinking though since I had a lot of Santa Fe locos, if I fixed those up, and got Santa Fe bodies for the Burlingtons, I would sell off the ones that weren't Santa Fe locos, and model Santa Fe.
I was also thinking maybe I could trade some of the junkers off to get a good loco of a line I'd want, or maybe at least some money off of a good one. But if have to find a seller that would be willing.
The Atlas/Kato Burlington Northern, the Athearn SW7 Burlington Northern, and the Athearn F7 SF are worth fiddling with up to a certain point. I think you would be wasting your time and money messing with the others. Again, how much time and money you want to spend to satisfy sentimental value is up to you. I don't see the point of seeking advice from others about that.
Converting them to DCC will take a pretty high level of work given the legacy analog technology they were designed for.
Others will have better insight into that conversion than me.
The hobbytown drive has some value in the market. And the Bachmann 2 motor 44 tonner has some value. I wouldn't count on anybody giving you much of anything for the rest of the lot.
The Atlas/Kato is dead simple to make DCC. There are board repalcement decoders that go in place of that plastic 'board' on top of the motor.
Athearn BB locos need slightly more work, mostly to isolate the motor from the frame.
Doughless The Atlas/Kato Burlington Northern, the Athearn SW7 Burlington Northern, and the Athearn F7 SF are worth fiddling with up to a certain point. I think you would be wasting your time and money messing with the others. Again, how much time and money you want to spend to satisfy sentimental value is up to you. I don't see the point of seeking advice from others about that. Converting them to DCC will take a pretty high level of work given the legacy analog technology they were designed for. Others will have better insight into that conversion than me. The hobbytown drive has some value in the market. And the Bachmann 2 motor 44 tonner has some value. I wouldn't count on anybody giving you much of anything for the rest of the lot.
Considering I have pretty much no money into all of those locomotives, if I got anything for them, I'd be way better off than keeping them. Plus fixing them would make them easier to sell. As long as I could get more for them when they are running than I spend, I'm set. Most of them seem to need just a good cleaning, and ran on some clean track. Only 3 really need parts by the sounds of it, the black switcher, the 080 steamer, and the one Santa Fe.
The ones I will keep for sure are the Burlington's and the Athearn F Unit, with it's matching cars. The Santa Fe that doesnt run due to drives I think I'll fix, give them all a good oil and lube job, and start listing them on ebay.
The 350 Santa Fe 4 axle with the short stubby nose, what locomotive is that? I kinda like it, so I want to look for a better brand of that model, and maybe in a different line.
That's a Bachmann GE U36B. Train set Bachmann, not Spectrum. Do the wheels turn by hand? Because they made that same loco as both a powered and a dummy, the dummy might have high rolling resistance compared to a freight car. If the wheels don't turn by hand, then it's a powered one and there are just some issues if it won't go when powered up.
Looks like some reminisce of traction tires on the rear truck.
Trainset, the son had one of these. I might still have the chassie in my junk box.
I save way too much stuff.
Wdodge0912 Doughless The Atlas/Kato Burlington Northern, the Athearn SW7 Burlington Northern, and the Athearn F7 SF are worth fiddling with up to a certain point. I think you would be wasting your time and money messing with the others. Again, how much time and money you want to spend to satisfy sentimental value is up to you. I don't see the point of seeking advice from others about that. Converting them to DCC will take a pretty high level of work given the legacy analog technology they were designed for. Others will have better insight into that conversion than me. The hobbytown drive has some value in the market. And the Bachmann 2 motor 44 tonner has some value. I wouldn't count on anybody giving you much of anything for the rest of the lot. Considering I have pretty much no money into all of those locomotives, if I got anything for them, I'd be way better off than keeping them. Plus fixing them would make them easier to sell. As long as I could get more for them when they are running than I spend, I'm set. Most of them seem to need just a good cleaning, and ran on some clean track. Only 3 really need parts by the sounds of it, the black switcher, the 080 steamer, and the one Santa Fe. The ones I will keep for sure are the Burlington's and the Athearn F Unit, with it's matching cars. The Santa Fe that doesnt run due to drives I think I'll fix, give them all a good oil and lube job, and start listing them on ebay. The 350 Santa Fe 4 axle with the short stubby nose, what locomotive is that? I kinda like it, so I want to look for a better brand of that model, and maybe in a different line.
Lets talk numbers. The trainset quality locos......junk locos.....are probably worth $20 each, maybe, if they were in mint condition. Some need handrails that don't exist in the market....unless you buy exactly the same kind of loco and check ebay often for the one that comes up for sale every 4 months ...then spend $15 plus $10 shipping to get it home. And then you can fix your loco and turn around an sell it for $20, less ebay auction fees of about $3.
So, it would take you about 4 months to lose $8 dollars on the transaction and however many hours it took to find the loco with the correct handrails or other parts. Its your call.
Sentimental value aside, maybe just scoop up all of the other-than-nice locos and sell them as one lot on ebay with a starting price of $29.95 plus shipping and see if anybody bids. Describe the lot as as "some run poorly or not at all, as is". Never know, maybe two people will see something they want and the bids will rise a few dollars more.
Most of my old stuff was in very good condition - we didn't have room for a permanent layout, so until I was 10 or 11, we only had a layout up from Thanksgiving to New Year. We always kept the boxes for everything, so everythign was stored in the original boxes. I could probably argue it ALL had sentimental value, but in truth, only a few pieces really meant something to me. Those I kept, I sold all the rest. A few locos and some special cars. None have Kadees, and I'm not about to convert any of it to DCC. Not worth the effort, none of them were really good runners and their design makes installing a decoder extremely difficult. I'd like to see someone install a decoder in the ATT Rocket I have - back then, almost the entire loco is the motor, there is absolutely no empty space in the loco, and putting the decoder in one of the cars and keeping it permanently coupled is cheating. Not to mention is has some serious pizza cutter flanges and will NEVER be able to run on COde 83 rail.