jjdamnitKevin, have you found a Talgo equipped switcher yet?
No, I have not. I sure would appreciate the help. Thank you.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Hello All,
Kevin, have you found a Talgo equipped switcher yet?
Let me know, if you do go Talgo I have something for you.
I can drop it in the mail tomorrow.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
EilifOne other alternative -which would require a parts loco- would be to replace the traction-tire-grooved-wheels with regular metal wheels. You would loose pulling power though
That looks like the plan right now. It will only pull two cars are most, so pulling power will not be an issue, I hope.
The RS-11 will be too long. I need to keep this as compact as possible.
SeeYou190 I have found a couple of the AHM models, but they all had traction tires in bad shape. It looks like I might need to buy two or three of these and make one good one with the pieces. -Kevin
I have found a couple of the AHM models, but they all had traction tires in bad shape.
It looks like I might need to buy two or three of these and make one good one with the pieces.
One other alternative -which would require a parts loco- would be to replace the traction-tire-grooved-wheels with regular metal wheels. You would loose pulling power though, so a remotor might be even more necessary. Of course then you could add wipers to those wheels and have all wheel pickup.
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I can't remember if you are running DC or DCC.
The Model Power RS-11 has truck-mounted couplers. While not a "small" switcher it could suffice on your timesaver.
I bought one a while back. I converted it to DCC with a Digitrax DH126P decoder and body-mounted the couplers.
This RS-11 in my snowplow MOW train as a mid-train helper.
After a quick search on eBay there is one for $20.00. It is painted for the New Haven line but with your skills you could easily patch out or repaint it to match your livery.
I forgot to check in on this thread, I'm glad you're getting close to the solution.
If it's just the traction tires that are in bad shape, there are a couple sellers on ebay that sell traction tires. I think Calument is the most common brand. Any original traction tires you find are likely to be so brittle as to resist transferring from one wheel to another. Traction tires should always be treated as a consumable.
Also, some folks have found that Goody "ouchless" hair bands (a pack with 3 sizes is a couple bucks at walmart) are a good option, but you might want to go with something more specific. Some folks have even filled the traction tire groove with liquid gasket (basically a black silicone) but I'd be worried about getting it exactly smooth and even all the way around.
Good luck whatever path you decide to take.
wjstixYou never mentioned exactly how sharp your curves are, but as I noted a No.2 Wye is the same as a No.4 regular turnout, roughly equivalent to 15-18" radius curves.
The curves will be 18" radius.
The problem is not getting around a tight radius, the problem is coupler alignment when coupling going into curves, or coupling on S curves.
Truck mounted couplers, in this situation, will be the best option.
Kevin, I don't know if you need a switcher with Talgo Couplers, my friends back in Toledo who modeled interurban and street car lines with 10" radius curves used the old Athearn SW-7 on those curves without any problems.
Rick Jesionowski
Rule 1: This is my railroad.
Rule 2: I make the rules.
Rule 3: Illuminating discussion of prototype history, equipment and operating practices is always welcome, but in the event of visitor-perceived anacronisms, detail descrepancies or operating errors, consult RULE 1!
snjroyMine had some rubber tires and did not pick up power from all wheels.
.
I will probably need to check before I purchase. There might be different versions.
The exploded drawings that Eilif posted a link for definitely show wipers on both trucks, but that does not guarantee they are metal wheels.
SeeYou190 Eilif If you're considering the AHM SW1, here's a page about them with a parts diagram. . Thank you. . I think we found a winner. From the diagram it looks like it is all wheel power pick up, which is good. I have 10 of the new Mabuchi motors that Mel introduced me to. . With little detailing and work, I think this will be the one for the compressed timesaver switching module. . I have never converted truck mounted couplers to Kadees, this will be new territory for me. Now maybe I will learn what that "Talgo Adapter" is for in all my packs of 20 series couplers. . -Kevin .
Eilif If you're considering the AHM SW1, here's a page about them with a parts diagram.
Thank you.
I think we found a winner. From the diagram it looks like it is all wheel power pick up, which is good. I have 10 of the new Mabuchi motors that Mel introduced me to.
With little detailing and work, I think this will be the one for the compressed timesaver switching module.
I have never converted truck mounted couplers to Kadees, this will be new territory for me. Now maybe I will learn what that "Talgo Adapter" is for in all my packs of 20 series couplers.
SeeYou190 Now maybe I will learn what that "Talgo Adapter" is for in all my packs of 20 series couplers.
I've used that. It works.
Mike.
My You Tube
EilifIf you're considering the AHM SW1, here's a page about them with a parts diagram.
IIRC about 10 years ago or so I got a circle of 15" radius HO track (might have been 18" but I think it was 15") and put it around the base of the Christmas tree. I ran a BLI NW-2 switcher, 3-4 40' freight cars, and a caboose, all with body-mounted couplers, and it worked fine.
If you're considering the AHM SW1, here's a page about them with a parts diagram.
http://ho-scaletrains.com/ahm-emd-sw1/
They're pretty simple locos so a remotor with a smoother running can (one of those 3 buck ebay mabuchi motors would probably be an upgrade) and upgrading it to AWD wouldn't be out of the question.
I do think that a small modern plymouth might be a good option though.
SeeYou190This will be for my compact "timesaver" using #2 Wye turnouts and sharp curves.
Keep in mind for wye turnouts, the frog angle number is half of what the corresponding regular switch would be, so a #2 wye is equivalent to a regular #4 turnout. Unless your curves are sharper than 15" radius, any small switcher with body-mounted couplers should be fine. I have one of the little Bachmann 45-tonners, I know some folks don't like the decoder in it but mine seems to run fine with it.
Here's a video review of one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cJJt5KvoWTs
DoughlessOthers can chime in, but for sharp curves and turnouts, I think the Atlas HH600/660s switcher would work fine. I'm sure the HH600/660 was still around in 1954. Much better quality model. And a shorter wheelbase than a S or SW unit.
The Atlas HH600/660 is a sweet little engine. I've never tried it on anything smaller than a #4 turnout though.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
If you could find one, a roundhouse boxcab. They were running til the very late 50's
A pessimist sees a dark tunnel
An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel
A realist sees a frieght train
An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space
How about the bli plymouth switcher. Small good runner and keep alive installed
I had an AHM SW1. It ended up in my junk box pretty quickly. I would consider a small plymouth with a keep-alive decoder (or two connected together).
Simon
SeeYou190 tstage Why do the couplers need to be truck-mounted? Sharp curves? . Tom, This will be for my compact "timesaver" using #2 Wye turnouts and sharp curves. If the switcher and freight cars used on this all have truck mounted couplers, there will be (hopefully) greatly reduced issues with coupling on curves. . -Kevin .
tstage Why do the couplers need to be truck-mounted? Sharp curves?
Tom, This will be for my compact "timesaver" using #2 Wye turnouts and sharp curves. If the switcher and freight cars used on this all have truck mounted couplers, there will be (hopefully) greatly reduced issues with coupling on curves.
But those switchers referred to in this thread won't run very well at slow speeds. AHM only made those switchers to run at higher speeds. The motor and gearing was poor.
Others can chime in, but for sharp curves and turnouts, I think the Atlas HH600/660s switcher would work fine. I'm sure the HH600/660 was still around in 1954. Much better quality model. And a shorter wheelbase than a S or SW unit.
http://archive.atlasrr.com/HOLoco/arc-hohh600.htm
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Atlas-HO-10-002-510-Green-Bay-Western-HH600-660-1946-repaint-101/312871266023?hash=item48d894a6e7:g:kncAAOSwR9Nd5WrE
As was pointed out, the C415 would not be suitbale for 1954. Missed that part of your question.
- Douglas
tstageWhy do the couplers need to be truck-mounted? Sharp curves?
AHM made a SW1 and a Alco S-2 switcher that fits your requirements.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
SeeYou190Any ideas for what I should be looking for?
Kadee long shank couplers maybe?
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
The link leads me to a Google image page of c415 locomotives. Is there something I should look for to see the upgrade?
C415 wasn't a vintage 1954 loco though.
An old Varney SW(7 I think they were)? The one I had had 8 wheel drive and it could pull down the house, thanks to the die cast body.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
IHC made an ALCO C415. It was sold under various names besides IHC, IIRC. Its actually a cool looking model. I've seen a thread in another forum where somebody upgraded the details nicely.
https://www.google.com/search?biw=1348&bih=640&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=YCMyXqLEM-_m_QasgIPYAg&q=ho+scale+alco+c415&oq=ho+scale+alco+c415&gs_l=img.3..0i24.124344.132225..132712...0.0..0.102.2645.37j2......0....1..gws-wiz-img.....0..0i67j0j0i30.CrbGnQxxM0M&ved=0ahUKEwii9NHiiKrnAhVvc98KHSzAACsQ4dUDCAc&uact=5
Why do the couplers need to be truck-mounted? Sharp curves?