Hi there, well I may have been on this forum years ago, I surely forgot my login etc.
First a bit of an introduction. In the early 80's late 70's I helped design some of the 3-in-1 kitbash kits by Model Die Casting / Roundhouse. In fact they went into production with three kits that had parts of them that I designed. Then they released another kit that was totally my design. The kit numbers were numbered 1516 1517 1519 and a second 1519 with a different content that I designed. My name is on the instruction sheets for the first three. Because of my job mostly, (world traveling for the govt), I've been sort of armchairing it. Now I'm retired for the second time, I'm gearing up to build a layout again.
So after that little introduction, here's what I need help with. I need help from someone in the Northeast Pennsylvania area that has a NON-DCC layout to test a method I used to repair/replace the cracked drive universal on the old MDC Boxcab locomotive. And possibly provide a photo backdrop for the engine.
No I's not rocket powered, but since discovering that my boxcabs were down for the count with this cracked universal, about the turn of the century, I've been trying to figure out how to remedy the situation inexpensively and in a kitbash sort of way. (It's sort of in my blood, kitbashing.)
You can contact me through here. Assuming the e-mail subscription works.
Cordially,
Gerry
Gerry giving your post a bump, since you are still on moderation.
I was looking at my boxcab to convert to DCC and discovered a similar cracked universal. My method of repair did not work. What did you do?
Sorry I am not in your area to help.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
What about just getting a couple pieces of flex track, and setting up a diorama/test track?
You could hone up on some modeling skills at the same time.
Mike.
My You Tube
Ya, sounds like at this point you really don't need a layout, just a test track. Easy way would be to just go down the LHS (assuming there's one near you) and buy a Kato Unitrack 9-3/4" feeder straight track to hook up to a DC transformer, a four-pack of straight tracks (several lengths are available) and maybe the two-pack of 4-7/8" rerailer tracks.
You can always pick up some curved track later to make an oval if you want to do some break-in runs or something. Unlike sectional track you may be used to from 'the olden days', modern 'click track' has great conductivity and doesn't need to be fastened down permanently to work fine.
It has been about 20+ years since I looked inside a box cab but it may be as simple as getting an Athearn blue box engine universal joint at a hobby shop
Should be under $5
Here's Gerry's page, found it on HOSeeker.
http://kitbash.ourpage.com/index-linked.htm
Now to look for the boxcab he talks about.
OK, found the locomotive on HOSeeker, have the parts diagram, what part is it that he fixed? I don't see anything that looks like an Athearn part.
I've had a few of those boxcabs over the years. I got one of the track cleaner versions most recently, because those are the only ones with the correct basic body for one other than CNJ 1000 - namely, they have doors in the ends.
They did have a tendency to crack the universals between the big bull gear in the middle and the trucks.
Wherabouts are you? I'm in the Reading area. I use DCC but I have plenty of pieces of track and a couple of DC powerpacks.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Our club (Olde Newburgh Model RR Club-layout is both DC and DCC. Our HO main line is about 160'. You're welcome any Wed. evening 6-8. We're in Walden, NY about 1 /2 hour from Port Jervis. Google our web site for details.
28107 is what broke on my, it has little propeller like arms on one side and a female side that accept the propellers from the truck
I just have to say that I've had a blast assembling some of those 3-in-1 kitbash kits. Thanks for these. One of them was the basis of the Climax loco on my avatar. I still have a Galloping Goose project on the to-do shelf. I will get to it some day.
Simon
SHOOT Guys! I neglected to checkmark the box to get notifications!
Really sorry about that.
When I didn't get any notifications by email, I just went ahead with my experimentation and, well, it died on curves.
What I attempted was to use a coiled spring and a tiny hole drilled in the end of the shaft for the worm gears in the trucks. I used hot glue on the spring in the large gear.
Spring was too tough and it would not let the trucks turn easily while tracking curves.
My next attempt will be using that timy hole, I believe it was a #70 and a piece of steel wire through another hole in the cracked universal. That will be this weekend.
as a psudo thanks, let me insert a picture of one of my rejected 3-in-1 kit ideas, one that was not accepted for production, but I still thought pretty cool.
DRAT, I should have taken pictures of the spring idea. I tell ya, when one is on a roll, those IMPORTANT THINGS like PICTURES, slip one's mind.
Hello All,
Welcome back!
This might be a little off-topic but here is an article from the NMRA about re-motoring an MDC box cab.
I have several of these and have only converted them to DCC, using the OEM motors and gearing.
As far as finding a layout to test your loco on check out the NMRA web page and see if you can find a club near you.
If you are a NMRA member there is a pike registry that lists members layouts that you can visit and possibly use their layout as a test track.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
wjstixEasy way would be to just go down the LHS (assuming there's one near you) and buy a Kato Unitrack 9-3/4" feeder straight track to hook up to a DC transformer, a four-pack of straight tracks (several lengths are available) and maybe the two-pack of 4-7/8" rerailer tracks.
Let me just second this great suggestion.
My Kato Unitrack Test Track is very effective, easy to set up, and easy to use.
A winner all of the way around.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Gerry, I can't see the picture of your 3-in-1 kit idea. There are instructions on a sticky in this forum on how to post pictures.
I think the extensions were / are available from a seller on ebay ... about 5 years ago I got them to replace mine
the part was missing one on mine [ same as the image shows], non DCC
the reseller was RCR and I did a search for MDC boxcab
Since the OP said ''cracked drive universal'' I had to look at my MDC/Roundhouse Boxcabs and those so called Climax things. I see my repair work of the cracked cross piece #28058, looks to be part #28058 Universal Driver, (attached to the worm shaft). I never had the #28107 Universal Link crack, it goes directly into the #28106 Gear Lower. I thought we called that Big Lower gear a Bull Gear.
I pulled the cracked piece off the wormshaft. I took a piece of brass tubing (.186'' OD) that was the guessed close correct ID (.157'') to match the guessed close OD of the cracked cross piece before it was cracked. Filed a light beveled on the leading edge of the cracked piece, hard ream the ID end of the brass tube, cut the brass tube to the correct appoximent length, slightly longer then (.063'' my finished size). Now press/squeeze the brass tube's hard reamed end over the beveled end right up to the four posts of the cross (it should be a tight fit). Now dress/file off the excess brass tube down to the black plastic sholder of the cross piece. Put a black line on the worm gear shaft, so you know how far to push the repaired cross on. Remove the wormshaft from the truck (take notice of the two thrust washers #25059 at the worm ends, do not lose the thrust washers, there is one each, on the outer ends of the shaft), and in a vise, squeeze/press the brass covered cross on to the worm shaft up to the black line (you should feel the cross bottom out on the shaft. There, an easy fix for the cracked cross #28058 Universal Driver.