L. ZhouMy solution would have been to glue the coupler box shut, but that would only complicate maintenance matters. I've done it a few months back with a Kadee coupler box with the Lima mineral wagon Kadee conversion
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My solution for Athearn locomotives is a bit more work, but if might solve all your problems.
I file the bottom of the frame flat, then I mount a 20 series underset shank Kadee coupler in a 242 coupler box with a nylon screw. This fully insulates the coupler from the frame, and you can snug the screw so it will not come loose.
Also, Kadee couplers always work better when installed in a Kadee coupler box.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
An alternative to locktite is just bees wax. Itnwill hold. Warm up the wax to liQuid. Warm the screw if it is metal , dunk the theads then screw it in The cooling wax will create a weak bound that will hold it. plus it has other uses around the shop like coating small drill bits to keep them from binding and breaking while drilling. Especially in resin. Makes a great easy to remove sealant too
shane
A pessimist sees a dark tunnel
An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel
A realist sees a frieght train
An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space
My solution would have been to glue the coupler box shut, but that would only complicate maintenance matters.
I've done it a few months back with a Kadee coupler box with the Lima mineral wagon Kadee conversion, having no screws on hand. I would agree with screws, use the Loctite thread-locker.
"No one realizes how beautiful it is to travel until he comes home and rests his head on his old, familiar pillow." -Lin Yutang
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A little bit of pipe thread tape.
It will make the screw just a tad bigger thread wise, helping to hold it in place better.
But it must be very little tape to work properly. Too much, it won't fit at all.
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
Laugh if you must but, I use what I have on hand..Testors plastic glue.. It won't fasten the metal screw to the plastic but,it will hold it in place when the glue dries and will turn freely if you need to remove the screw.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
Kevin, Liqui-tape comes in a small bottle like other Microscale products. It looks like white glue. It is marketed as a "remains sticky" product and works like tape. I use it to hold loose smoke box covers on and it is also good for holding a loose floor in a boxcar for example.
It is nice for adding a bit of friction to a crane boom that will not stay up.
I apply it with a toothpick.
rbturnerI use Microscale's, "Liqui-tape."
Randy, I am not familiar with this product.
Has it worked well, how is it applied?
I use Microscale's, "Liqui-tape."
I used to use the Tamiya on my RC car.
If it's into metal, Loctite is fine. It will come off. I've taken apart numerous items that had a blue threadlocker on them, either Loctite or a knockoff, on screws far smaller than 2-56, and they came off no problem. If the screw threads into plastic, use the Tamiya.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Please do not use LocTite brand products, 242, 271, RC-609, red, blue, purple, or whatever on models with good paint or plastic pieces. These are industrial products for industrial uses.
Tamiya makes a thread locker for plastic R/C cars that has served me well for decades of model building.
Another option which will still allow removal of the screw when necessary is contact cement. However, don't use it as recommended on the can or tube for permanent holding.Instead, apply a little of it to the threaded portion on the end of the screw, let it dry for 15 or 20 minutes, then re-install the screw. The cement will not form a full contact cement-type bond, but will provide an interference fit, which will keep the screw in place, yet allow the screw to be removed when you need to do so.This same procedure can be used of you're continuously losing the knuckle springs in your Kadee couplers. Apply a minute dab of contact cement to the retaining nub on the base of the coupler, and, if you wish, another on the nub on the knuckle. No need to let it dry here, simply re-install the spring. If the spring eventually gets damaged due to other causes, remove it and the excess contact cement, then re-apply and install a new spring.
Wayne
Onewolf Capt Obvious would suggest BLUE loctite.
Capt Obvious would suggest BLUE loctite.
will it allow the screw to be removed at later date with out damaging the threads or worse..... stripping or snapping off the head of the screw trying to loosen it
Looking at their website Blue is for screws 1/4" - 1/2"
they show a Purple that is for screws less than 1/4" and low strength
Modeling an HO gauge freelance version of the Union Pacific Oregon Short Line and the Utah Railway around 1957 in a world where Pirates from the Great Salt Lake founded Ogden, UT.
- Photo album of layout construction -
I have an Athearn locomotive that is nortorious for the screws holding the coupler pocket lids in place to loosen up. I have to check said screws occasionally to make sure all is well
Does anyone have a solution? One I was thinking of is to coat the threads of the screw or the hole in the frame with a small amount of diluted white glue & allow it to dry..forming a coating on the threads that would act similar to "Loctite" when screwed in but still be able to be remove the screw when necessary...
Any thoughts or suggestions?