A search of the forum did not turn up any results. Well, actually, the search engine said that 0 results were found. Oh well.
I need to create some custom decals. I know that many forum members use decals (both custom and store-bought varieties) everyday. I'm looking for specific details about creating water slide decals using my HP OfficeJet Pro 7740 printer and how to apply them to my plastic or wood models.
What sort of paper? What printer settings? My HP says that it can print photo-quality prints on official HP photo paper at 1200 DPI. I'm assuming that decal paper can accept the ink similar to official HP photo paper. Notice that my printer is an inkjet type and not a laser jet type. I plan to use clear decal paper. I'm looking for info on specific brands and types of decal paper. The reviews and customer-supplied questions and answers regarding decal print paper on Amazing-dot-com are all over the place. Obviously, many Amazing customers are full of prunes.
I've seen some YouTube videos about the process. Some videos say to print the image and let the output dry for a few minutes and then spray clear Krylon or some other such product over the images and let that dry for several hours (and some say to not spray a protective clear coat). Then apply the decal to the model in the usual way and let that dry for another few hours. Some say to put the model with the newly applied decals into an oven at 100 C for a while. I doubt that advice applies to plastic models. Apparently, many YouTubers are also full of prunes. Anyhow . . . after the decal is applied to the model, when (or if) do I spray the final clear coat or dull coat or decal fixative or something over the entire thing?
Specific advice, specific makes/models/types/brands, specific techniques, times, temperature, tools, materials, etc . . . please.
Thanks in advance.
Robert
LINK to SNSR Blog
I have done lots of these, both for the trains themselves and for structures and other scenery. I have used a couple of inkjet printers, and you must use inkjet decal paper, not laser paper. During a pretty wide decal paper shortage a few years ago, I ordered what is probably a lifetime supply from decalpaper.com, which I find superior to others.
I usually use MS Word for this. I set the margins close to the top and edges, because decal paper is expensive. I try to print as many decals at once as I can. But, I cut the printed sheet squarely and cleanly with a flatbed paper cutter, and I can feet the shorted remaing sheet back into the printer later for more decals. If you are printing tiny decals like road numbers or small signs, print an extra one or two. Yeah, you'll mess one up once in a while, and it's better to just throw that one away and apply an extra copy.
You can't print white, and you shouldn't expect good results from light colors, either. However, you can paint the surface where the decal will be applied white, just the size of the decal, and you will get a good image. This is great for signs on buildings.
I prefer to print the decals and let the ink dry for 24 hours, then spray it with clear Krylon. I would then let the spray dry for another 24 hours. I am in no hurry.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
MisterBeasleyspray it with clear Krylon
The Krylon acrylic spray clearcoat is what works best for me. When I started doing my inkjet decals, I tested a number of clear coat spray cans. Most attacked the ink and ruined the decal even after overnight drying. Once the gloss clear is dry and the decal installed, then it can be overcoated with a flat finish.
Also, when cutting the decal, leave a small amount of decal paper around the printed area. Ink jet inks are water soluable and will run around the edges if trimmed too close.
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
My experience with an Epson inkjet and inkjet decal paper was a disaster. Black lettering on an orange loco was translucent. However now that I think of it, it the printer may or may not have been on the highest photo quality.
I did have success with black background and clear letters. When that decal was mounted on an area painted white, it looked like white lettering.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Okay, this is good info.
After I get the decal sheet out of the printer, do I use the Testor's Decal Bonder before, after, or instead of the Krylon Clear Coat? How long after taking the sheet out do I wait before applying the first of three light coats of sealer? How light is 'light'? How long between coats?
Regarding Testor's Decal Bonder . . . I've seen ads where the price ranges from $3.99 to $9.89 for a 3-ounce spray can. Are these ads for the same stuff? That big a variation in price? And I've seen two different printed labels on spray cans with the same name. Are these the same stuff simply with different (updated 'new and improved' marketing) labels?
Just by coincidence there is a MRR video showing Micro Sol and Micro Set. I did not know about these products and I did not know about the video, but that's the kind of stuff you run across when researching something new.
Thanks for the help.
I recommend that you use an inkjet printer that permits flat passthrough -- usually this involves a drop-down door opposite the hand-feed slot, so the printer does not curl the paper at any point during the print pass.
There was a line of printers, from ALPS, that featured opaque white ink for these purposes. I don't know if anyone still makes supplies for these printers, or provides parts and service for them, but you might keep a weather eye out for one if they do.
I do hope that Kalmbach gets the lead out of whatever they think they're doing with the community search, as there are a great many discussions with good value in them regarding all the aspects of making and using decals effectively.