wjstix I'll second (third?) Tamiya spray can paint. Its' nozzles produce a fine spray pattern, since it's designed to be used to paint small models - unlike the "big box store" spray can paint that's really meant for painting large areas like furniture. I've been using Tamiya for maybe 15 years now and don't recall a nozzle ever clogging. BTW I use Tamiya TS-5 Olive Drab for Pullman Green passenger cars. It's a bit lighter than Modelflex Pullman Green, which is probably the most accurate Pullman Green out there, but looks better on models to me - the Modelflex paint looks almost black under typical layout lighting. To my eye, Tamiya TS-5 is pretty close to what Walthers, Atlas etc. use on their pre-decorated Pullman Green cars.
I'll second (third?) Tamiya spray can paint. Its' nozzles produce a fine spray pattern, since it's designed to be used to paint small models - unlike the "big box store" spray can paint that's really meant for painting large areas like furniture. I've been using Tamiya for maybe 15 years now and don't recall a nozzle ever clogging.
BTW I use Tamiya TS-5 Olive Drab for Pullman Green passenger cars. It's a bit lighter than Modelflex Pullman Green, which is probably the most accurate Pullman Green out there, but looks better on models to me - the Modelflex paint looks almost black under typical layout lighting. To my eye, Tamiya TS-5 is pretty close to what Walthers, Atlas etc. use on their pre-decorated Pullman Green cars.
I was able to use the nozzle from a can of Tamiya paint to rescue a can of Krylon. Even though it was a different shape, the female end was the same size so it worked well. After using it, I put it back on the Tamiya can to clear it out.
I might check out that Olive Drab although I just got finished painting my fleet of commuter coaches and am not all that anxious to redo them, especially since I've added the window glazing to about half of them. Most of my mainline heavyweight equipment is either Walthers or Branchline so that is what I tried to match to.
For painting locomotive and rolling stock shells I've been using Tamiya spray cans and have yet to experience a clogged nozzle. I do turn the can over and purge the paint if I know I'm not going to continue to paint in 2-3 minutes. I also wipe off the excess paint from the nozzle hole area with a paper towel or rag.
For me, Tamiya nozzles yield the best and finest paint coverage for off-the-shelf rattle cans.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Medina1128 I don't know about other brands, but Rustoleum seems to be the main culprit. I've taken the nozzle off right after use and left them soaking in paint thinner overnight, too, but with mixed results. Maybe they should make new, unused nozzles available separately. I guess I answered my own question. Replacement nozzles
I don't know about other brands, but Rustoleum seems to be the main culprit. I've taken the nozzle off right after use and left them soaking in paint thinner overnight, too, but with mixed results. Maybe they should make new, unused nozzles available separately. I guess I answered my own question.
Replacement nozzles
It is more than just the nozzel... Paint also dries in the tube leading into the bowles of the can, No wait, these cans don't knead tubes do they.
Whale the part of the system that remains in the can can be clogged.
Id thake the nozzel off to wash that, and then I'd was the whole can in paint thinner.
OR IN WATTER if you are smnart enough to use water based products.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
doctorwayne John-NYBW Having never mastered the use of the airbrush, I have long relied on rattle can spray paints. Recently I have been having problems... While I've used spray cans when there was no alternative, I find it much easier to use an airbrush, even if I need to paint only one or two tiny items. However, I usually save-up my paint projects to make the session worthwhile. It would, in most cases, be an advantage to learn how to use your airbrush. Not only is it more reliable (as long as you properly clean it after every use - a couple of minutes, at most), but it's much more economical in regard to the amount of paint used, as the airbrush will afford you much better control over the application of paint. Properly sealed leftover paint from an airbrushing session can last for months or even years, and you can learn to mix pretty-well any colour you'll ever need. I use a Paasche VL internal mix airbrush, and it's been in use close to 40 years, including some commercial work. I've even used it to apply clear urethane to a good-sized oak library table. The manual which came with the airbrush outlined several exercises to allow the user to get familiar with the tool, and I practiced them on broken-up cardboard boxes obtained for free at any supermarket.The best ones were those which directed the user to create a dot of paint as small as they could make it, and to repeat that process again and again, in as straight a line as possible. When satisified with the size of the dots, the next exercise was to connect the dots with a line, as thin as possible, without missing any dot. I practised those two exercises until the dots and lines looked like they had been done with a pen and straightedge...I doubt that my hands are that steady nowadays, but it certainly showed me that I could do much better than I had originally thought. I'd bet than you can, too, if you make the effort, and I'd also bet that you'll be pleasantly-surprised by what you can do. Wayne
John-NYBW Having never mastered the use of the airbrush, I have long relied on rattle can spray paints. Recently I have been having problems...
While I've used spray cans when there was no alternative, I find it much easier to use an airbrush, even if I need to paint only one or two tiny items. However, I usually save-up my paint projects to make the session worthwhile.
It would, in most cases, be an advantage to learn how to use your airbrush. Not only is it more reliable (as long as you properly clean it after every use - a couple of minutes, at most), but it's much more economical in regard to the amount of paint used, as the airbrush will afford you much better control over the application of paint.
Properly sealed leftover paint from an airbrushing session can last for months or even years, and you can learn to mix pretty-well any colour you'll ever need.
I use a Paasche VL internal mix airbrush, and it's been in use close to 40 years, including some commercial work. I've even used it to apply clear urethane to a good-sized oak library table.
The manual which came with the airbrush outlined several exercises to allow the user to get familiar with the tool, and I practiced them on broken-up cardboard boxes obtained for free at any supermarket.The best ones were those which directed the user to create a dot of paint as small as they could make it, and to repeat that process again and again, in as straight a line as possible. When satisified with the size of the dots, the next exercise was to connect the dots with a line, as thin as possible, without missing any dot. I practised those two exercises until the dots and lines looked like they had been done with a pen and straightedge...I doubt that my hands are that steady nowadays, but it certainly showed me that I could do much better than I had originally thought. I'd bet than you can, too, if you make the effort, and I'd also bet that you'll be pleasantly-surprised by what you can do.
Wayne
If I was just starting out, I might take the time to learn to use an airbrush but my current layout will be my last and I have been working on it for about 18 years. It's in the 90-95% completion range. I'm just trying to get to the finish line.
SeeYou190 As long as we are talking spray paints... . Tamiya spray paints have always been excellent when I have used them. . The nozzles don't look any different from cheap department store brands, but they clean out well, atomize well, and seem to produce a smooth finish. . Unfortunately, most of the colors are flat, and I prefer a gloss finish when painting. . -Kevin .
As long as we are talking spray paints...
.
Tamiya spray paints have always been excellent when I have used them.
The nozzles don't look any different from cheap department store brands, but they clean out well, atomize well, and seem to produce a smooth finish.
Unfortunately, most of the colors are flat, and I prefer a gloss finish when painting.
-Kevin
I agree with what you say about Tamiya and after looking hard for a suitable match for the Pullman Green of the Branchline and Walthers passenger cars, I discovered their AS-13 (USAF Green) is close enough. It also has a nice flat finish which is what I want. They have another shade called British Green that is also close but a bit glossier and not quite what I was looking for. Can't remember the number offhand.
I have a can of the old Floquil Pullman Green but I found that in artificial light, it looks almost black.
I don't think their is a conspiracy. The producers probably figure that buyers use the entire can in very short time, so put efforts in getting good coverage from various angles rather than storing it after using it once. Modelers buy various paints to hold over a long time and use as needed. I think the household spray paint market buys paint to use immediately.
- Douglas
John-NYBWHaving never mastered the use of the airbrush, I have long relied on rattle can spray paints. Recently I have been having problems...
gmpullmanI find these indispensable for transfering paints and thinners in the paint shop. They reduce the possibility of spilled paint and help keep the jar lip from getting loaded with paint. They make it easy to fill the color cup on the airbrush without over filling.
Absolutely Ed, I am with you 100%. 3 milliliter pipettes are truly indispensable. I always keep a few hundred on hand.
Living the dream.
A few years ago I contacted Rustoleum and they sold me a bunch of the old style(tall with the "male" connector) and the newer flat top with the female connector. The cost was pretty minimal -about ten bucks a hundred-plus shipping. Got them from their Rockford IL location. My color choices use a lot of their camoflauge colors and when one valve fails I simply replace it. Warming the paint under the hot water faucet helps-make sure it is not too warm to comfortably handle, shake well and then shake some more. A body shop friend also gives the can a few firm hits on a concrete floor to loosen any paint clogged near the pick up tube. If all else fails I use a 9mm or .44Mag universal can opener.
Mark B.
BigDaddyWhen all else fails, I use a pin vise and a small drill.
That won't work for the newer nozzles. They have a "diffuser" directly behind the pin-hole.
I sometimes use the "turkey baster" method mentioned by Overmod except I use these very handy pipette-type "basters" —
https://www.amazon.com/Disposable-Transfer-Calibrated-Essential-Laboratory/dp/B07F3ZN56V/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1HFL6QWCCPH6J&keywords=pipette+dropper&qid=1576961649&sprefix=pipette+%2Caps%2C161&sr=8-3
I find these indispensable for transfering paints and thinners in the paint shop. They reduce the possibility of spilled paint and help keep the jar lip from getting loaded with paint. They make it easy to fill the color cup on the airbrush without over filling.
Indespensable dispensers!
Cheers, Ed
When all else fails, I use a pin vise and a small drill.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
What I always did was use a 'dedicated' turkey baster. Suck up a little paint thinner, take the nozzle off the can, put the baster over the stem holding the rim against the bottom of the spray 'head' for seal, and squeeze the bulb until the flow runs clear. Then wipe any remaining paint off the face of the nozzle, drain any remaining solvent from the baster, and resume with just blowing air through from the "bottom" a couple of times to purge and dry the passage.
Do it outdoors over a pan or jar, of course, and wear nitrile thin gloves, etc.
Clean and keep your empty-can nozzles and you can just drop any clogged ones into a small cup of paint thinner and keep going with one of the 'spares'. Then take all the dirties out as a 'batch' with the baster and sequentially do them all...
Hello All,
I too use "rattle cans" and I also have an airbrush.
Occasionally I do experience clogged nozzles on the "rattle cans".
Using pins/needles to clear the nozzle seems to only damage them.
I have not yet needed to store nozzles in a solvent; mineral spirits, paint thinner, et al.
When preparing to paint with "rattle cans" I warm them in hot tap water using the water bath or "Ban-Marie" method.
To do this I put the can in a tall "Tupperware" type container and fill it with hot tap water.
I allow the can to soak, occasionally shaking the can to distribute the heat from the tap water evenly.
My rattle cans are stored on the back porch, which is unheated. So, I might need to refresh the hot tap water a few times to get the can and paint up to the temperature of the water bath.
Caution: DO NOT USE BOILING WATER FOR THIS!
After painting the object(s) I still turn the can upside down and try to purge the paint out of the nozzle.
Yes, I agree that most modern "rattle cans" will not clear like the older ones once did.
Then I'll wipe the nozzle clean with a paper towel moistened with paint thinner.
I don't know if it's the heating of the pain in the can or the cleaning the nozzle with a thinner but I have not had as many clogged nozzles as I used to have before adopting these methods.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
SeeYou190I have found them the second-best option to an airbrush.
I'll have to check that out.
This thread has turned up some great info, even replacement nozzles! Nice find guys!
I use cans for many different projects besides model painting, as we all do.
Mike.
My You Tube
For What It Is Worth:
Martin Senior paints, available from NAPA auto parts stores, are not "spray any angle" cans, and they have an excellent self-cleaning metal valve in the nozzle. They also make a fine fan spray pattern when in use.
I have found them the second-best option to an airbrush.
I don't think those Montana caps will fit Rustoleum cans.
Male - female thing.
Good Luck, Ed
There are male and female caps.
Here are more choices
Medina1128 I don't know about other brands, but Rustoleum seems to be the main culprit. I've taken the nozzle of right after use and left them soaking in paint thinner overnight, too, but with mixed results. Maybe they should make new, unused nozzles available separately. Replacement nozzles
I don't know about other brands, but Rustoleum seems to be the main culprit. I've taken the nozzle of right after use and left them soaking in paint thinner overnight, too, but with mixed results. Maybe they should make new, unused nozzles available separately.
This has been helpful. Now that I know replacement nozzles are available, I went out to Amazon and found lots of choices. This was the smallest bundle available:
https://www.amazon.com/Montana-Cans-MXGCAPSET-3-Tryout-Capset/dp/B00HSK2GHK/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=spray+paint+caps&qid=1576949944&sr=8-5
I wish they gave more information so I would know what cans they are compatible with, but for 6 bucks, I'm willing to take the chance. Since I am an Amazon Prime member, I get free shipping. The other great thing about Amazon is fast delivery. I'm supposed to get delivery by Monday.
After I use one of the "any angle spray" cans I remove the nozle and spray some CRC contact cleaner through it.
This has worked well so far.
MisterBeasley You might try taking it back if you bought the can at Home Depot or Lowe's, asking for a replacement because the nozzle is clogged. They seem to have a no-questions-asked return policy. To me, these nozzles actually are defective.
You might try taking it back if you bought the can at Home Depot or Lowe's, asking for a replacement because the nozzle is clogged. They seem to have a no-questions-asked return policy.
To me, these nozzles actually are defective.
From my persepctive, it isn't the nozzle that's defective. It's the design of the can that won't allow you to clear the nozzle by spraying upside down until nothing but air comes out. Of course the result is the same. An ususable half can of paint. If I was a conspiracy theorist, I would claim they deliberately design their cans that way to force users to buy new cans of paint.
Medina1128I don't know about other brands, but Rustoleum seems to be the main culprit. I've taken the nozzle of right after use and left them soaking in paint thinner overnight, too, but with mixed results. Maybe they should make new, unused nozzles available separately.
I've noticed that too.
I'll try soaking in lacquer thinner.
They want to sell paint, not nozzles. Nice idea though.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
UNCLEBUTCHBeen there, done that, same results
Same here. I wipe the tip off after each use, and hope for the best, the next time I need to use it.
I've never tried holding the can at other angles, I always did the upside down thing, like you did, with the older style nozzles, but it seams the "newer" style, doesn't allow that.
I've never tried to take one of the newer versions off, don't know if you can.
Having an air brush doesn't eliminate clogged nozzles. They need a thorough cleaning after each use, as well, and can be even more finicky.
I use both on models. With the air brush, I tend to get two or three projects lined up, then paint them all.
I don't have a booth with everything set up and ready to use, I set up a temporary booth, get the paints ready that I need, paint, and clean up.
EDIT: Dave posted while I typed. I'll have to try and take the nozzle off the next time. I've never tried it. The old style was easy.
I dab the opening on the nozzle with a cloth immedately after painting while the remaining paint is still wet. I have also taken to removing the nozzle from these "improved" spray cans and putting it in a closed container of mineral spirits for a day. I also take a cotton swab of mineral spirits and dab it on the verticle small tube you see when the nozzle is removed. Results are mixed but better than nothing.
When a can is kaput but the nozzle still seems OK I save the nozzles.
Dave Nelson
Been there, done that, same results. Then the wife came down with a health issue that prevents useing a rattle can anywhere within 50 feet of the house.
I got an airbrush outfit,and learned how to use it, not that hard.
Still have a dozen or more half emty cans,want them ?
Having never mastered the use of the airbrush, I have long relied on rattle can spray paints. Recently I have been having problems with the nozzles clogging between uses. It used to be after using a can, you could turn it upside down and press the nozzle until only air came out and that would clear the nozzle. Now, more and more companies have come out with cans that spray paint even when the can is held upside down so the old method of clearing the nozzle doesn't work. As a result I am finding that I often have a half can or more of paint with a clogged nozzle which is quite irritating. I sometimes can find a suitable can to swap nozzles with and have had varying degrees of success in unclogging nozzles using needles and toothpicks. I find that Krylon cans are especially susceptible to this problem. Does anyone know of a trick to prevent nozzles of spray cans from clogging after use?