Mounting a Tortoise machine quickly and easily

[cwclark]

QUOTE: Originally posted by fwheadon

I have found that altering scenery/track/structures will usually require removing screws and this is so much easier when they are attached from beneath the benchwork/subroadbed.

That would be easier unless you are an old man like me with really bad knees and don't get under the layout as easily as a lot of others can....If i ever have to replace a tortoise machine, the mounting holes are already there to line up a new machine from the bottom of the layout (and that's the only reason i'll have to go underneath the layout) It is just easier for me to mount them from the top..no bending, stooping, and a whole lot of pain in doing so...I even have a short swivel chair that i took the back off of so i can sit, roll around, and wire stuff under the layout a whole lot easier with....my wiring harnesses are not even under but run beside the benchwork so i don't have to crawl under the layout...Chuck

[fwheadon]

Thanks for a a good set of ideas (well illustrated by your photos), especially the use of a base plate for the actual Tortise machine. I have used this technique for twin coil machines in the past, and it workks for Tortise machines quite nicely. The ease of working with a larger piece of material is a bonus. Try mounting the Tortise to the base material (either Masonite/hardboard or plywood) and starting the screws used to mount the base material to the subroadbed. In this way it is so easy to locate and finish running in the mounting screws from below. I have found that altering scenery/track/structures will usually require removing screws and this is so much easier when they are attached from beneath the benchwork/subroadbed.

[fischey]

Nice work, all of you.

[cwclark]

QUOTE: Originally posted by rexhea

Clinchvalley:

What "number" size is a drill bit .040?

REX

I'm using a #63 bit....it's a bit tight but goes in ok with the help form a pair of needle nose pliers....once the retaining screw is in place the spring wire is not going anywhere....chuck

[Anonymous]

.040 bit is a #60. I cut a bunch of mounting plates out of 1/4 Masonite & drilled mounting holes and a hole for the wire. Then I drill a 5/16 hole through the roadbed. Have a 5/16X2" bolt with a wing nut that I use to hold the mounting plate in place while the glue drys. After the glue drys I use a 3/32' and an angle head drill to drill the mounting holes up into the roadbed. I then start 2 screws (#6X3/8 hex-head sheet metal screws) on the far side, place the unit then hold it in place with a small clamp and put in the other two screws.

[cwclark]

QUOTE: Originally posted by rexhea

Clinchvalley:

What "number" size is a drill bit .040?

REX

I don't remember the size right off hand...the guy at the LHS said this one will work so i put it in the bag..next time i'm down there i'll ask him the bit size....one other thing...a lot of you guys use the harness..i mentioned it but this particular tortoise machine is on a yard ladder and didn't need all six posts wired to the built in DP/DT switch...I do have a lot of them wired as such on the main line track...they are great for target lighting in some areas of the layout which beats the heck out of building train detection circuit after train detection circuit throught the entire layout for minor trackage that otherwise would need a train detection circuit...Chuck

[mikebonellisr]

Thanks,This wil be a big help in future installations,i have about 18 more to do.My problem is that it is a two person operation.I can't hold the motor in position and reach on top of the layout at the same time.

[rexhea]

Clinchvalley:
I also install a terminal strip and wire to each terminal of the Tortoise. This allows easy connection later for signals working off the built in switches of the Tortoise

Thanks CW for starting this thread. The installation methods suggested sure beat trying to drill a pilot hole under the layout and trying to start those danged little screws from underneath.

What "number" size is a drill bit .040?

REX

[ClinchValleySD40]

Very good. Only thing I do differently is start two dry wall screws in the scrap block and when in position, drive them home from under. I keep all screws under for access.

I also solder the wires to the Tortoise and connect them to an 8 position terminal strip which is mounted under the layout near the swtich. Cat 5 four pair wire is used and every switch has the same wire color coding.

Thanks for the posting, excellent info.

[Anonymous]

If I'm only going through the 3/4" subroadbed I use .032 wire as it's easier to work with. .039 wire will work very good with subroadbed up to 1 1/2" thk. I use 3/4" splice plates so I have 1 1/2" thk roadbed where the splice plate is.

I mount all of my tortises with Goop from Lowes Home Improvement. If you ever try this you will not go back to screws again. Don't use too much Goop as if you decide to move the track it's hard to get the tortise off. I make a "C" on the top of the tortise and stick the wire up through the drawbar hole, then move the tortise around to smear the Goop. Take it down for about two minutes, like the instructions tell you, and then remount. It's there for life.

I also use the edge card connectors from Loy's Toys as it's easier to remove the wires.

Bob

[Anonymous]

Thought this deserved to get back on the front page,nice pics,and explanation of the mounting process.In my opinion a very good post that will help out those who have not tried under the table turnout control.Thanks Terry.

[cwclark]

Hi guys....just put together a series of pictures with explanations concerning mounting tortoise machines...it's easy!...check it out... http://community.webshots.com/album/137793353fwcjGj/4 Chuck[:D]