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Painting Brass

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Posted by snjroy on Friday, November 29, 2019 2:04 PM

100% priming on every single brass item? I've been lazy about some things, thinking that I can always do touch-ups later. Like Mark, some stuff I painted a decade ago is still holding well. Polly scale acrylics was such a great product. It stuck to just about anything. I would not bet on other makes, except maybe for Proto-paint, which I think is basically a dilluted equivalent of the old Polly scale line.

Now looking at the item in hand, I would probably consider priming the bumpers given the fact that they will likely do what they were meant to do - take bumps from couplers. Paint is likely to rub off very easily without primer. And to answer your question, acrylics work fine on primed-brass. I have used acrylics on auto primer and dilluted shellac with a lot of success. I tried Vallejo primer on brass, but it rubs off too easily to my taste. If the bumber posts are not on the layout, you could apply a light spray of auto primer, after a good wash of course... You can also brush paint primer.

Anyway, that's my two-cents worth. 

Simon

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Posted by Mark R. on Thursday, November 28, 2019 5:55 PM

mlehman

 

 

 
Mark R.
Really ? The OP is painting brass bumper posts, not a hand crafted brass steam engine ! Take them out of the package, paint them with whatever you want and use them. Why does stuff like this get turned into rocket science ?

 

I tend to prefer to paint things once. It's not the painting that takes most of your time and labor, it's the prep work.

Believe you me, I tend to be a minimalist when it comes to paint. But not knowing how the bumper is finished out of the package, it's worth exploring the possibilities, as the decisionmaking matrix on what to use is pretty similar whether painting a $10 bumping post or a $1,000 brass loco.

 

My favorite medium for making things is brass. I've scratched all my signal towers from brass for example. Once complete, they go right into the booth for a coat of silver paint - no prep what-so-ever. Most of these towers are over 20 years old and there isn't a single flake of paint missing from any of them. 

Same goes for the countless number of feet of scratched brass railings, ladder cages and platforms I've made out of brass. No primer either, straight to a coat of color. Once finished and on the layout, there is zero wear and tear on any of it, unlike a brass engine which will get handled and will ultimately bump into some.

On the flip-side, I DO go to great lengths in the prep department for brass engines and rolling stock - that is pretty much mandatory if you want it to last .... anything else, not so much.

Mark. 

¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ

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Posted by mlehman on Thursday, November 28, 2019 5:22 PM

Mark R.
Really ? The OP is painting brass bumper posts, not a hand crafted brass steam engine ! Take them out of the package, paint them with whatever you want and use them. Why does stuff like this get turned into rocket science ?

I tend to prefer to paint things once. It's not the painting that takes most of your time and labor, it's the prep work.

Believe you me, I tend to be a minimalist when it comes to paint. But not knowing how the bumper is finished out of the package, it's worth exploring the possibilities, as the decisionmaking matrix on what to use is pretty similar whether painting a $10 bumping post or a $1,000 brass loco.

Mike Lehman

Urbana, IL

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Posted by mlehman on Thursday, November 28, 2019 5:17 PM

GNMT76
Is TSP substitute the product's actual name or is it also known by some brand name or other? Where is it sold?

The stuff I have is called "TSP-PS Phosphate Free" by Savogran. You should be able to find it or other brands at any paint store or well-stocked paint dept.

Mike Lehman

Urbana, IL

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Posted by Mark R. on Thursday, November 28, 2019 10:52 AM

Really ? The OP is painting brass bumper posts, not a hand crafted brass steam engine ! Take them out of the package, paint them with whatever you want and use them. Why does stuff like this get turned into rocket science ? No wonder new guys are afraid to do anything. What did we do forty years ago when we didn't have the internet to run to, only to get bombarded by over the top non-sensical advice that leaves us with more questions than answers ? We just did it, and I don't recall any major disasters that weren't easy to recover from. Some paint chipped off the brass bumper ? .... touch it up with some more paint !

Mark. 

¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ

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Posted by GNMT76 on Thursday, November 28, 2019 10:00 AM

mlehman

TSP is trisodium phosphate. Hard on the environment, so now you have TSP substitute.

I've generally found that a primer that works well on one of the common metals will also work well on others.

Vinegar was mentioned. I've used it on unfinished brass, mostly when I built a couple of WP&Y Alcoa from PSC kits. On raw brass vinegar acts as an etchant, so gives a toothy edge to hold paint. Vinegar may not work as well on clear-coated brass .

 

 
Is TSP substitute the product's actual name or is it also known by some brand name or other?  Where is it sold?

Kerry

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Posted by mlehman on Wednesday, November 27, 2019 10:44 PM

TSP is trisodium phosphate. Hard on the environment, so now you have TSP substitute.

I've generally found that a primer that works well on one of the common metals will also work well on others.

Vinegar was mentioned. I've used it on unfinished brass, mostly when I built a couple of WP&Y Alcoa from PSC kits. On raw brass vinegar acts as an etchant, so gives a toothy edge to hold paint. Vinegar may not work as well on clear-coated brass .

Mike Lehman

Urbana, IL

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Posted by RR_Mel on Wednesday, November 27, 2019 8:40 PM

GNMT76

 

 
RR_Mel

After a good cleaning I use a light coat of Rust-Oleum Self Etching Primer.  Never had any paint flake off brass after priming it.
 
 
Mel
 
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
 

 

 
Mel,
 
Are the primers that you and others here cite good on any type of metal that may be found on a model railroad?  Or, is one or the other suitable only for a particular metal?
 

I have only used the Rust Oleum Primer on brass and it really works great.  I painted a brass GP9 about 8 years ago and I don’t keep old spray paints so I can’t see what it says on the can.
 
I did a post on my blog about the process if your interested.
 
 
 
 
Mel
 
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
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Posted by GNMT76 on Wednesday, November 27, 2019 6:41 PM

RR_Mel

After a good cleaning I use a light coat of Rust-Oleum Self Etching Primer.  Never had any paint flake off brass after priming it.
 
 
Mel
 
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
 

 
Mel,
 
Are the primers that you and others here cite good on any type of metal that may be found on a model railroad?  Or, is one or the other suitable only for a particular metal?

Kerry

  • Member since
    October 2017
  • 104 posts
Posted by GNMT76 on Wednesday, November 27, 2019 6:37 PM

mlehman

For paint, either could be used. Most important is what you will prime it with, as you should always prime metal. Usually, you want to go with the primer suitable for the paint you'll use, but some work well with most paints once dry. Read the data sheet. I've used Tamiya spray can primer successfully, but currently am using Rustoleum Universal Bonding Primer for many materials including brass.

 

 
Mike,
 
I plan to use a Model Master acrylic.  Are you referring to a data sheet that may come with a primer - or something else?

Kerry

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Posted by maxman on Wednesday, November 27, 2019 6:35 PM

GNMT76
"MEK" for prepping.

methyl ethyl ketone?

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Posted by maxman on Wednesday, November 27, 2019 6:32 PM

SeeYou190
What is TSP?

Trisodium phosphate?

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Posted by GNMT76 on Wednesday, November 27, 2019 6:31 PM

mlehman

Definitely. Most brass is coated with a clear finish and it needs to be in good shape before painting or prepped so it is. Any fingerprints and oil needs to be cleaned off. 

If there is any rosin or other solder flux on the model, use denatured alcohol for rosin removal or whatever was recommended for clean-up. 

TSP was often used in the past, but substitute TSP is now commonly used. It cleans and allows a spot-free rinse.

Mike,

What is TSP?  In an e-mail reply just now, the manufacturer (Tomar) mentioned a product called "MEK" for prepping.  Ditto on just what that is.

 

Kerry

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  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
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Posted by RR_Mel on Wednesday, November 27, 2019 5:30 PM

After a good cleaning I use a light coat of Rust-Oleum Self Etching Primer.  Never had any paint flake off brass after priming it.
 
 
Mel
 
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
  • Member since
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  • From: Southern Florida Gulf Coast
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Posted by SeeYou190 on Wednesday, November 27, 2019 5:26 PM

I use CRC Brake & Parts Cleaner (be sure to get the non-clorinated formula) to clean the model, then rinse with distilled water.

.

Then I soak in vinegar for about an hour, rinse in distilled water again, and dry with compressed air regulated to 20 PSI.

.

This has served me well.

.

mlehman
TSP was often used in the past, but substitute TSP is now commonly used.

.

What is TSP?

.

-Kevin

.

Living the dream.

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Posted by mlehman on Wednesday, November 27, 2019 5:00 PM

For paint, either could be used. Most important is what you will prime it with, as you should always prime metal. Usually, you want to go with the primer suitable for the paint you'll use, but some work well with most paints once dry. Read the data sheet. I've used Tamiya spray can primer successfully, but currently am using Rustoleum Universal Bonding Primer for many materials including brass.

Mike Lehman

Urbana, IL

  • Member since
    March 2017
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Posted by Track fiddler on Wednesday, November 27, 2019 4:54 PM

I will back that up  I've been using tsp as a dull glosser for years

 

 

TF

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Posted by mlehman on Wednesday, November 27, 2019 4:49 PM

Definitely. Most brass is coated with a clear finish and it needs to be in good shape before painting or prepped so it is. Any fingerprints and oil needs to be cleaned off. 

If there is any rosin or other solder flux on the model, use denatured alcohol for rosin removal or whatever was recommended for clean-up. 

 

TSP was often used in the past, but substitute TSP is now commonly used. It cleans and allows a spot-free rinse.

Mike Lehman

Urbana, IL

  • Member since
    October 2017
  • 104 posts
Painting Brass
Posted by GNMT76 on Wednesday, November 27, 2019 4:39 PM

Is it necessary to prep brass - in my case bumper posts - prior to painting?  If so, how?  And is acrylic or enamal paint more suitable for brass?

Thanks!

Kerry

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