Trains.com

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

More on the Mabuchi SF-266SA motor as a replacement for the Canon EN22

8874 views
20 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
More on the Mabuchi SF-266SA motor as a replacement for the Canon EN22
Posted by RR_Mel on Sunday, October 27, 2019 11:18 AM

I received the ten Mabuchi SF-266SA motors I ordered on Oct 2 Saturday the 26th.  I first checked out the two motors I intended to install in an Athearn SD40-2 frame that will receive a Hobbytown Cast metal E7 body.
 
I built up a crude dynamometer using a pair of SF-266SA motors each with it’s own 0-.999 amp digital ammeter connected to the motor terminals.  With the ammeter directly across the motor connections when they are turned by the test motors they become generators, equal RPM in the generators equal milliamps on the digital meters.
 
I connected the two motors under test with metal universal joints to the generators.  I parallel the two motors under test from my bench 0-20 volt power supply, same voltage to both motors.
 
In this test I used one new Mabuchi SF-266SA and a Canon EN22-R11N1B.
 
I was both surprised and very happy to see that the two motors track very close to each other.  The Canon produced slightly less current at the low end and just a tad more at max RPM. 
 
As far as I’m concerned they are an exact replacement motor for the Canon EN22 at a fraction of the cost as well as readily available.
 
When I got out the Athearn SD40 frame it looked much different than my other Athearn frames, I had bough it off eBay for the Hobbytown E7 body about 5 years ago.  After a good search I found out it is an PPW/A-Line/Arrow Hobby custom frame (F-57701), similar to the 1970s Athearn SD40/45 frame (40017), it uses the 1965 Athearn SD40 trucks (40024/40025).
 

 
A-Line/Arrow Hobby SD40 frame with the two Mabuchi SF-266SA motors glued in place with Amazing Goop and wired for DC operation.
 
 
There wasn’t enough room for flywheels having to use two motors because of the single shaft.
 
 
Rear truck showing a regular Athearn drive line, the long shaft on the motor was the perfect length.
 
 
Forward trucks.
 
I bought the meter below about 10 years ago for measuring drawbar pull in ounces, it’s simple and works great.
 
 
I intend to put everything together to make a nice looking and easy to use package as a bench dynamometer.
 
I use a short piece of Atlas flex track for my testing.  I use a nail in a hole between the tracks for the permanent anchor for the digital scale, a short piece of Bronze wire with hooks to connect the meter to the frame of the engine being tested.  I have lead weights ¼lb, ½lb and 1lb, several of each.  I set the weights on the locomotive under test.
 
The frame shown in the pictures above with its shell goes into wheel slip at 3.1 ounces drawbar.  At wheel slip the motors draw 342ma.  Increasing the weight on the engine another pound runs the current up to 427ma and the drawbar to 5.1 oz.
 
Feel free to comment or ask questions, I would like both.
 
 
Mel
 
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Canada, eh?
  • 13,375 posts
Posted by doctorwayne on Sunday, October 27, 2019 1:13 PM

I modified three of these Athearn U33Cs  with dual motors and extra weight...

The motors are from Mashima, and are mechanically independent of one another - my thought, at the time, being that if one truck slipped due to track condition, the other might not....

Each of them weighed 33oz., although if I had kept them, I'm positive that I could have got them to at least 40oz. each.

Other than running them with various heavy trains, I had no scientific way to determine their drawbar pull (I later acquired the test meter from MicroMark, but by that time, the diesels had gone to a friend in Wisconsin).

I did, however, manage to arrange for a nearby club to test (and quantify) their pulling ability, and they determined it to be 8.3oz. per unit....about what I would have suspected, relative to some info I've read on power relative to adhesion (weight), which works out to roughly 1/4 of the loco's weight.

My own tests with heavy trains (not so precise, I'd guess) was to use one of those U-boats on a train of loaded hoppers on the curving 2.8% grade between Elfrida and South Cayuga on my layout.  It's an elongated S-curve just under 18' long, with a straight stretch of track about 3' long separating the two curves.
I don't recall the test train's length, but it was 44 loaded hoppers with a total trailing weight of 22lbs.
The single loco moved the train easily until it (the locomotive) left the curve at the top of the grade and entered straight track, where its wheels began to slip.

I would have liked to have been able to perform the test on the much longer grade to the second level (45' with two curves, left and right, and an S-bend near the top) but at that time, it dead-ended at the top of the hill, as the partial upper level had not yet been built.  Two of those locos handled the train almost as if it were empty - plenty of power.

Other than for test purposes, I don't normally run long trains - 20 cars would probably be around the upper limit, and for loaded hoppers (live loads of Black Beauty blasting medium) on the longer hill, the limit for two Mikes or Consolidations is 12 2-bay hoppers and a caboose - a trailing weight of almost exactly 100oz.

Wayne

 

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Sunday, October 27, 2019 2:15 PM

The most weight I’ve added to a locomotive is 16 oz.  That brought the Model Power E7A & B up to 28oz each.  Both have Canon EN22 dual shaft motors, haven’t checked the drawbar.  I would guess in the vicinity of 8oz for both.
 
It takes at least 5oz drawbar to pull 11 Athearn 72’ passenger cars up my 3½% grade.  My Cab Forwards have 5.8oz and the wheels slip occasionally pulling 11 Athearn Heavy Weights up my 3½% helix.  I normally operate my layout twice around counter clockwise which makes the helix the down grade.
 
Nothing has been a problem for a pair of my 2¼ pound E7s.  They will pull the paint off the walls.
 
 
Mel
 
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
  • Member since
    July 2007
  • From: Yorkton, Sk, Cnd
  • 441 posts
Posted by wvg_ca on Sunday, October 27, 2019 2:32 PM

I ordered two of the Mabuchi motors from ebay a couple of weeks ago, haven't gotten them as of yet ..

As far as I can see the only drawback seems to be the single shaft, but for the price [2.60 cdn each] they are just wonderful ..

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Monday, October 28, 2019 10:26 AM

I have continued my testing of the Athearn SD40 frame with the dual Mabuchi motors and they look better with every test.
 
I increased the total locomotive weight to 3.119 pounds and the wheels do not stop.  With the wheels slipping I measured the drawbar at 9.4oz and the total current at 6.24 volts was 630ma or 315ma per motor with very little increase in motor heat after 10 minutes.  The room temperature is 69° and after 10 minutes I could tell a slight warming to the touch.
 
The motors measured 2250 RPM at 6.24 volts ÷ Athearn gear ratio 12:1 = 187 wheel RPM 42 " scale wheels = 40 MPH scale speed of the locomotive.
 
Bottom line is the Mabuchi SF-266SA is a extremely good motor.
 
 
Mel
 
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
  • Member since
    June 2018
  • From: Chicago, IL
  • 306 posts
Posted by Eilif on Monday, October 28, 2019 11:53 AM

I'm really interested in these.   I'm curious to know how consistent these are and if there are any problems to be had if one spins at a slightly different speed than the other.

I do have some oldies that could use an upgrade and this seems like a way to do so without investing alot in cheap locos.

Visit the Chicago Valley Railroad for Chicago Trainspotting and Budget Model Railroading. 

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Monday, October 28, 2019 12:27 PM

I have purchased a total of 12 so far everyone are the same max RPM ± about 100 at 6700 RPM (seems to be max at 12 volts).  I think that’s the best I can measure them with my meter and power supply.  Tenths of volts makes a large difference at the high end.
 
Pretty darn good quality for the money.
 
 
EDIT:
 
I thought I would post a picture of my RPM Meter
 
 
It measures the RPM by counting the reflected Laser beam off the white stripe I painted on the universal.  The meter is quite accurate for a cheapie.
 
As always you can click twice on the picture to enlarge.
 
 
Mel
 
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
  • Member since
    June 2018
  • From: Chicago, IL
  • 306 posts
Posted by Eilif on Monday, October 28, 2019 5:50 PM

Thanks for that!

I think I'll pick up a couple, even though I've got more pressing projects in the works now.

Visit the Chicago Valley Railroad for Chicago Trainspotting and Budget Model Railroading. 

  • Member since
    June 2005
  • 4,368 posts
Posted by Darth Santa Fe on Monday, October 28, 2019 7:45 PM

Nice find on those motors!  I'll have to keep those in mind.  Mabuchi's motors have done very well for me in my projects.  Two of the somewhat small FK-130SH motors were powerful enough to drive a DD40!

By the way, here's a slight correction to the scale speed calculation based off motor RPM for you.  I hope this helps!

2,250RPM ÷ 12 gear reduction = 187.5 wheel RPM
42" x Pi = 131.9469" ÷ 12 = 10.9956' wheel circumference

circ x 187.5 = 2,061.67 feet per minute
x 60 = 123,700.2107 feet per hour
÷ 5,280 = 23.43 scale MPH

To reach 40 scale MPH, the motor needs to run at about 3,840RPM.  At the motor's maximum 6,700RPM, the maximum speed will be about 70 scale MPH.

_________________________________________________________________

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Monday, October 28, 2019 8:58 PM

Darth Santa Fe

Nice find on those motors!  I'll have to keep those in mind.  Mabuchi's motors have done very well for me in my projects.  Two of the somewhat small FK-130SH motors were powerful enough to drive a DD40!

By the way, here's a slight correction to the scale speed calculation based off motor RPM for you.  I hope this helps!

2,250RPM ÷ 12 gear reduction = 187.5 wheel RPM
42" x Pi = 131.9469" ÷ 12 = 10.9956' wheel circumference

circ x 187.5 = 2,061.67 feet per minute
x 60 = 123,700.2107 feet per hour
÷ 5,280 = 23.43 scale MPH

To reach 40 scale MPH, the motor needs to run at about 3,840RPM.  At the motor's maximum 6,700RPM, the maximum speed will be about 70 scale MPH.

 

Bow

You are correct I missed that one.  I went back over my calcs and it came out correct, I’ll chalk that one up to a brain fart.Dunce  I have no idea where that 40 MPH came from.  The older I get the more often it happens.Sigh
 
 
 
Mel
 
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
  • Member since
    December 2009
  • 54 posts
Posted by Carolina Northern on Friday, November 8, 2019 5:51 PM

I ordered four of these on Oct 29th and they arrived today. Quick shipping from China. Not sure what I'm going to use them in, but the newest rule of Model Railroading is - If you see it, better get it, it may never be available again.

 

Don

  • Member since
    November 2012
  • From: Kokomo, Indiana
  • 1,463 posts
Posted by emdmike on Saturday, November 9, 2019 1:16 AM

How many pole motor are they?  3 or 5?   I have seem some skew wound 3 pole that would give a 5 pole a run for its money.  For now, I stick with Canon or a high quality coreless when I repower a brass model.   Should be interesting to see how these motors hold up in some long term use such as on a club layout that puts the locomotive thru its paces for several hours at a time. 

 

Silly NT's, I have Asperger's Syndrome

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Saturday, November 9, 2019 7:35 AM

emdmike

How many pole motor are they?  3 or 5?   I have seem some skew wound 3 pole that would give a 5 pole a run for its money. 

 

Mike
 
The Mabuchi SF-266SA is a 6 pole non skewed Rare Earth Magnet (Neodymium) motor.  I believe that the 6 pole armature makes it equal to the 5 pole skewed Canon EN-22 in performance.
 
Very good low RPM torque and smooth running from almost 0 to 6900 RPM (no Load).  If anything I think the SF-0266 has more low end torque than the EN-22, again probably due to the 6 pole armature.
 
It is slightly smaller than a Canon EN-22 and my tests have shown to me that it is so close to the EN-22 that it makes a great replacement for the hard to find EN-22.
 
I now have Mabuchi SF-266 motors in four locomotives.  One Athearn SD40-2 frame with a cast metal E7 body and three Rivarossi articulated, all run equal to the Canon EN-22 in similar equipped locomotives, all four of the locomotives have added weight.
 
As far as I’m concerned the SF-266 is a great replacement for the EN-22.
 
I have read other posts about removing the plastic end off the SF-266 to reduce the overall motor length by .21”/5.35mm but I have not done that as of yet.  That might help somewhat when needing a dual shaft motor, check out Wayne’s post above and my earlier post with the SF-266 motors back to back.
 
Back to back motors eliminate the Athearn flywheels but the pair of SF-266 motors are superior to the single Athearn motor and I can’t tell any difference with the missing flywheels.  My much over weight E7 runs better than the original Athearn with the flywheels.
 
 
 
 
Mel
 
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
  • Member since
    November 2012
  • From: Kokomo, Indiana
  • 1,463 posts
Posted by emdmike on Saturday, November 9, 2019 9:17 AM

Sounds like a good replacment motor if it holds up in long term use.  I use mostly the CN series from Canon and not the EN, wonder what the differance is in them?  The motor in my PFM 2 truck Shay is a CN22.   Mike

Silly NT's, I have Asperger's Syndrome

  • Member since
    June 2005
  • 4,368 posts
Posted by Darth Santa Fe on Saturday, November 9, 2019 10:06 AM

emdmike
I use mostly the CN series from Canon and not the EN, wonder what the differance is in them?  The motor in my PFM 2 truck Shay is a CN22.

I think the EN22 has higher torque than the CN22.  I have a Hallmark/Samhongsa E1A/B set that came with CN22 motors, and compared to the 3-pole DN22 in my Stewart/Ajin switcher, it's easier to stall under load.  It's by no means a weak motor since I used one of them in my DJH 2-8-0+0-8-2 Garratt with great results, but it doesn't seem quite as strong to me.

_________________________________________________________________

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • 33 posts
Posted by stevetx on Saturday, November 9, 2019 10:57 AM

Mel has done a great job in his testing and review of this motor. A big thanks. It is  way more than I found in the Remotor/Regear "Groupsio" where I first read about this motor while looking for an EN22 alternate.  That group included lots of success stories in DC and DCC loco uses.  If anyone is still somewhat skeptical about using this never heard of motor, they should again consider the fact that their current cost, just over $2 each, makes them a great gamble AND they are easy to find.  I bought 8 but have used only 2 so far on which I removed the plastic end cap and shortened the drive shaft on each to fit space available. Mabuchi makes this motor for automobile rear-view mirrors.  So, they maybe could be a future model railroad go-to motor. Thanks Mel.

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Saturday, November 9, 2019 11:20 AM

Mike/Darth
 
Canon doesn’t list a CN-22 in their current catalog, I have several Canon motors labeled EN22/CN22, indicating to me that they are the same motor.
 
 
I opened up one of my Canon EN22-R11N1B several years ago and it is a 5 pole skewed 12VDC - 6900 RPM (No load).  I checked the RPM with my cheapie meter.
 
They apparently made a 3 pole CN/EN22??? motor at one time or another according to the picture below.
 
 
I’m pretty confident on the reliability of the Mabuchi 266 motors, there primary use is motorized rearview mirrors on vehicles.  The mirrors on our Ford Freestar are still working OK after 12 years of Bakersfield heat.  Before I ordered the motors off eBay I popped one of the mirrors out of the housing and sure enough they are the SF-266 motors.
 
Thanks for the good words stevetx!
 
 
 
 
Mel
 
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
  • Member since
    June 2018
  • From: Chicago, IL
  • 306 posts
Posted by Eilif on Saturday, November 9, 2019 3:05 PM

RR_Mel
Back to back motors eliminate the Athearn flywheels but the pair of SF-266 motors are superior to the single Athearn motor and I can’t tell any difference with the missing flywheels.  My much over weight E7 runs better than the original Athearn with the flywheels.
 
Mel 

 
Thanks Mel,
      This is the main issue I was considering as far as using these.  Two of these are still vastly cheaper than a motor and flywheels and I have a few old Athearn (some with and some without flywheels) that could use an upgrade.  
 
I have some very nice condition (probalby 80's or 90's) Athearn BB open motor and flywheel sets (though not enough for all my old BB locos)  and now I have some of these on the way.  I may try both methods on similar locos and do a head to head.
 
Thanks again for all your work on this.  Very helpful, especially for us budget railroad guys.

Visit the Chicago Valley Railroad for Chicago Trainspotting and Budget Model Railroading. 

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Huntsville, AR
  • 1,251 posts
Posted by oldline1 on Saturday, November 9, 2019 5:02 PM

RR_Mel

 
EDIT:
 
I thought I would post a picture of my RPM Meter
 
 
It measures the RPM by counting the reflected Laser beam off the white stripe I painted on the universal.  The meter is quite accurate for a cheapie.
 
 

 

Mel,

 

I got some of these motors from China through feebay and the price was right. Only took 3 weeks to get them here.

QUESTION: I also ordered one of those tachometers. I'm having a hard time getting a battery for it though. It seems there are no 6F22 9v batteries in NW Arkansas. Would a regular 9v battery work? I don't want to damage the thing.

Thanks,

oldline1

  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Saturday, November 9, 2019 6:06 PM

6F22 is just a plain old carbon-zinc 9V battery. The ones called "Heavy Duty" are usually just carbon-zinc batteries as opposed to the more common alkaline. An alkaline 9V is still 9V, so there should be no issue using whatever you have.

                                         --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Saturday, November 9, 2019 6:27 PM

Randy got it right.  It takes a standard 9 volt battery.  I don’t use mine very much so it still has the battery that came in it over a year ago.
 
It takes a bit of experimenting to get the hang on how to use it.  I always try it three or four times to make sure it’s correct.  I either put a silver paint stripe on dark or in the case of flywheels I paint the flywheel black and leave a brass stripe for the laser to reflect back to the meter.  The tape they sent with the meter works but at high RPM it comes loose easily.
 
I also use a painted NWSL universal.  A silver stripe on the black U-Joint work pretty good.
 
Mel
 
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Users Online

There are no community member online

Search the Community

ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
Model Railroader Newsletter See all
Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox!