Removing (Automotive??) paint from Plastic Models

[NS6770fan]

I acquired an Athearn bluebox SD45 a while back as a project engine. I recently finished installing a dcc ready motherboard and I am ready to work on the exterior. Theres only one problem. A thick layer of what seems to be automotive paint Has been applied. This results in many details being caked with paint and orangepeel. I would like to try whatever I can to get the paint off. If I really have To, I will replace the shell. I have acetone, alcohol, and lacqer/paint thinner at my disposal. Any recommendations?

[gmpullman]

SuperClean has been my favorite "go-to" for stripping any kind of paint off plastic.

https://superclean.com/products/superclean-cleaner-degreaser/

Try it first. Some of those solvents you mentioned WILL soften or destroy the plastic.

Before the SuperClean some folks have had good luck with Pine Sol? I don't have any personal experience with Pine Sol.

Good Luck, Ed

[jjdamnit]

Hello All,

gmpullman

I don't have any personal experience with Pine Sol.

I have used PineSol with limited success. I used it full strength. I put the shell in a zip-top gallon freezer bag, filled the bag with PineSol and purged the air out of the bag.

This was then placed in a metal loaf pan, in case of leakage. The pan is steel and not aluminum. 

I then let the shell soak in the solution for about 12-hours.

Then I removed the shell and with an old toothbrush, under warm running water with nitrile gloves on, scrubbed it. 

Full strength PineSol can be harsh on bare skin.

I put the shell back in the zip-top bag and added fresh solution.

To completely strip the paint off of a Rivarosi shell it took four (4) rounds of soaking, scrubbing and refreshing.

NS6770fan

A thick layer of what seems to be automotive paint Has been applied.

What makes you suspect this paint is an automotive type?

I am not familiar with automotive paints but I suspect they are lacquer based.

NS6770fan

I have acetone, alcohol, and lacqer(s.i.c.)/paint thinner at my disposal. Any recommendations?

Mineral spirits might do the trick without damaging the plastic.

Hope this helps.

[doctorwayne]

Do not use lacquer thinner or acetone as a stripper on plastic models, as it will damage or destroy the plastic.

Alcohol or methyl hydrate may work, but I have also found that Super Clean works well as a stripper for plastic.

Wayne

[RR_Mel]

I acquired a similar Atlas GP9 and soaked it in several solvents for weeks including denatured alcohol and Super Clean to no avail.  I ended up replacing the shell.

 

 

 

 

I have a bunch of Athearn SD40-2 shells if you are interested.  Send me your address by PM if you’re interested and the road name would you need?  I bought the Athearn SD40-2s for their frames, the Bowser/Carry E7 bodies fit the Athearn SD40-2 frames.

 

 

Mel

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

 

[OT Dean]

I bought a pint of Scalecoat II Wash Away paint remover for plastics quite some time ago and have had good luck using it.  It's handy to have and, even better, it's re-usable.  You soak the model in it for ten minutes, then rinse it under warm water, using a brush (I use a soft toothbrush, but firmer ones might work better in some cases) to scrub.  Repeat if necessary.  Are you sure it's automotive paint, though?  It's been a while since the ban on lacquers and I don't know what auto painters are using now, although I think they, also, are using acrylics, whose esters are gentler to the planet.  Good luck!

Deano

[Hillyard]

Pine sol is strong.  Don't let it soak too long.

Not knowing this, I let a F7 soak for about 2 weeks.  Yes it stripped the paint.  It also attacked the plastic, turning it softer and almost cheesy.  The model was a loss.

[danno54]

Automotive brake fluid will remove paint. As long as the shell is polystyrene or other hard plastic. It melted the soft plastic used for models cars back in the early 60s.

[Eilif]

It doesn't work for every paint, but I've had very good luck over the years with Purple Power.  In my experience, it's the same thing as Super Clean (same active ingredient 2-butox Ethanol) but at a significantly lower cost.  I've stripped hundreds of wargamign miniatures with it.  It's plastic and tin/lead safe, but it can rust metals that are prone to corrosion.  Also it will brutally dry out your hands so wear non-latex (it will soften latex) gloves, I recommend Solvex.

I always keep a covered bucket of it (full strength) around for anything that needs to be stripped or degreased. I just pulled a set of Athearn coach bodies out of the bucket that had been painted over by a previous owner and it stripped ust about everything but the primer layer. 

[Medina1128]

I'd just buy a new shell, but then, that's just me.

 

[Doughless]

I don't think the issue is the plastic shell as much as it is the autootive paint.  Automotive paint is designed to use on metal, and methinks that whatever will work on removing automotive paint will also harm the plastic.

I have had limited success with using mineral spirits to remove rattle can paint.  Rattle can paint is more akin to automotive paint, IMO, than the paint that typically goes over plastic models.

The black Athearn BB plastic is more robust than most shells, so maybe mineral spirits won't attack the plastic so much. 

Brake fluid also works well on black Athearn plastic shells.

[danno54]

I use actual automotive paint and primers on model cars. I use the Scalecoat Paint Remover available at most hobby shops or brake fluid. Easy Off over cleaner is good for stripping the “chrome” plating off plastic.