I haven't been in this position so I'm not sure I'm qualified to respond. But from looking at this from the outside I'd say this is a simple mater of time and finances.
As in the old expression, "time is money". You'll spend a lot of time recovering track, turnouts, etc. that could be spend moving forward with the new layout, nevermind the aggrevation. But clearly the issue is the $$$ involved. It's not my time and it's not my $$. Only you can decide what the balance is involved. I don't envy your dilema. I'm a bit fortunate in that I might be able to affod the $$ to buy new and would maybe just rescue the turnouts and scrap all the rest. But my $$ situation might be a bit more advantageous that yours. Only you can trully decide how to procede. Just my $.02.
MisterBeasley Thanks, everyone, for the advice. I will try to salvage the long pieces of flex track and use that in hidden staging. There is a lot of flex track in small sections that will be difficult to reuse. Way too many snap switches, too. I, too, found myself with old brass fiber-tie flex track and brass snap switches and sectional track. I went to a train show, found a dealer in that stuff and just gave it to him. I hated to just toss it. Hopefully someone else got some use out of it.
Thanks, everyone, for the advice. I will try to salvage the long pieces of flex track and use that in hidden staging. There is a lot of flex track in small sections that will be difficult to reuse. Way too many snap switches, too.
I, too, found myself with old brass fiber-tie flex track and brass snap switches and sectional track. I went to a train show, found a dealer in that stuff and just gave it to him. I hated to just toss it. Hopefully someone else got some use out of it.
I had a little brass and fiber track many years ago, and while I was a starving grad student, actually used it on a garage layout that was all code 100.
I have used both code 100 and 83 on the last two layouts, code 100 in staging and code 83 in the main visible part of the layout. It's not hard to join track of different codes in a limited number of places. I used home-made transition joiners and make sure the top and inside surfaces of the rail match. For those who prefer not to do that, transition track pieces are available commercially.
As for the small sections of track, usually "off-cuts" from fitting flex track into a yard, I save it all. Reason being that when laying out a yard, you can go through a box of smaller pieces and find one that will fit or that you can cut down a bit to make fit, that way you don't have to sacrifice another full length piece.
Ties, offcuts, pieces of rail, I save it all. I may never use all of it but likely I'll use some of it. Same with pieces of wood off the old layout, such as risers or other pieces. When I moved, I probably had 3 good sized boxes of dimensional wood pieces. I expect most of it can find a place on another layout.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I agree with Jim/RioGrande. Even if they were designed with moving in mind, old layouts tend to not fit into new houses without plenty of modification, but the basic components are certainly salvageable.
If you can find a three foot length of PVC and cap it at one end, then fill it with inexpensive 90% alcohol found in pharmacy's, soaking the tracks overnight should remove anything that's stuck to them. Turnouts can be soaked in a pan. Both can be scrubbed with an old toothbrush. After the debris settles to the bottom of the container, the alcohol can be reused for other purposes if stored properly.
The fact that some tracks are code 100 is another factor, however.
Maybe your new layout can have a portion of stouter rail representing another railroad or a mainline of the current railroad? Not necessarily an intregal part of the new layout's operations, but more of a scenic element.
Also, old track and turnouts can be sold on ebay for a decent price, if they are in good shape. I'd say $5 a turnout net of ebay costs would be an easy price to get, if its worth your troubles. List them for $7.50 each.
- Douglas
Personally, I save/salvage everything possible. Some of the wood on my current layout is being used for the 5th time. I have track that has been used on 2 or more previous layouts.
OTOH I tend to save too much stuff. It wasn't until about 3 years ago that I decided I was never going to reuse brass code 100 flex on fiber ties (from the 70's) and dumped it.
Paul
mobilman44After pulling up the trackage (all nailed down, no adhesive) I divided it into 3 piles. One pile was to go to scrap, and one was good enough for sub main running. The bulk of it was good for sidings, terminal, and yards. I ended up buying new track and turnouts (#8) for the mains, but almost all of the rest of the layout was reused track.
I tore down a layout about 20 years ago and like you, track was nailed down and not glued. The layout mainline was never completed due to separation and later divorce. I saved all the track and much of it was soldered. No problem, I could desolder or nip with Xuron Rail Nippers.
My next layout was 90% re-used track and it was all in very good condition.
I've gone through some financial low times due to divorce, job layoffs, etc. and that along with being raised by depression era parents loath waste. Sure, I get it, some are very well off and would rather throw away and buy new. I find with a little effort you can salvage and re-use a lot of stuff.
After I tore down my last layout and moved, I did the same thing as 20 years ago and saved nearly all layout components. I've already identified two benchwork sections that will drop right into my next layout, and the others I can modify to fit other parts by disassembling and re-sizing. It should be fairly easy now that I have a mitre saw handy. My previous layout was built with only two power tools, a 25 year old cordless drill and a corded sabre saw.
Now the next layout I've decided to change some of the track. I had mostly Atlas code 100 turnouts in staging previously, which I saved, but since I'm switching to Peco, I've sold all the Atlas turnouts and used the funds to help defray some of the costs of the Peco's. I also sold off most of my Walthers code 83 DC style turnouts have replaced them with Peco code 83 and a couple of Walthers DCC friendly turnouts. I plan to re-use most of the rest of the track and purchase additional as needed.
MisterBeasley Phase 1 was built with code 100 track, but the rest of the layout was done with code 83, which I like much better. Everything is ballasted down. Part of me just wants to trash the old track, and part wants to be frugal and reuse it. How much work is it to clean old Atlas track that's been down for a while? So, what should I do? Should I save everything, just save the turnouts, just save tunouts but toss the snap switches, Or toss everything?
Phase 1 was built with code 100 track, but the rest of the layout was done with code 83, which I like much better. Everything is ballasted down.
Part of me just wants to trash the old track, and part wants to be frugal and reuse it. How much work is it to clean old Atlas track that's been down for a while?
So, what should I do? Should I save everything, just save the turnouts, just save tunouts but toss the snap switches, Or toss everything?
To clean flex track ballasted and glued with matte medium, the flex track needs to be soaked in isopropyl alcohol. To accommodate 36" lengths of flex track, I used a 40" length of 2" diameter PVC pipe capped at both ends and filled with the rubbing alcohol. That set up let me "clean" 6 lengths of flex track at a time. But even overnight soakings did not completely remove the ballast (Woodland Scenics).
I finally gave up, tossed all of the flex track except for some lightly ballasted flex track that I was able to sell on eBay. I am now building a new large layout, and I purchased all new Atlas Code 83 flex track.
By the way, if you decide to keep your old flex track and reuse it on the new layout, I disagree with those that say that Code 83 and Code 100 are incompatible. The combination worked fine on my old layout, and it seems that you were equally successful with than combination of codes.
Rich
Alton Junction
I took down my previous 11x15 two level layout in 2008, and built a new (and improved) one in its place. Obviously there was a lot of track (Atlas 100 flex) and turnouts (Atlas #6 and #4).
After pulling up the trackage (all nailed down, no adhesive) I divided it into 3 piles. One pile was to go to scrap, and one was good enough for sub main running. The bulk of it was good for sidings, terminal, and yards.
I ended up buying new track and turnouts (#8) for the mains, but almost all of the rest of the layout was reused track.
Oh, as my layout is in a spare bedroom (W/HVAC of course), dirt on the track was minimal, so a swipe with an alcohol rag got them ready to use.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
Analyze what you liked about the previous layout, what you did not like, and sketch out what you hope to accomplish with the new one. This will give you a better idea of what you want to reuse and what you want to give away or discard.
Code 83 is as easy to work with as Code 100. Buying new switches and flex track will be expensive, but you will get better performance and appearance than you did with the older snap switches.
I have not made any effort to save track from my previous layouts. Too much work for the money saved.
.
All my track has been soldered, weathered, and ballasted.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I have removed ballast from track easily by taking it out to the driveway and gently putting the toe of my big rubber boot on one end and hitting it with the pressure washer. One pass on each side and it was good as new. I think soaking it first and then doing it might be an even better idea as it might even come off with a garden hose at that point.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
Been there done that a number of times. It would be very unlikely that a layout could be moved and reused, especially if it is a medium to larger layout. Small layouts sure. But to make best use of any space, probably not.
I built my last layout with moving in mind but also expected I couldn't re-use it in the form it was built. Since the track hadn't been fixed with ballast, I was able to save EVERYTHING except the hard shell scenery. I saved the rail joiners, drywall screws, basic benchwork frames and legs, track, even the wood pieces used as risers etc. I plan on re-using most of it.
In summary, re-use what you can and throw away the rest. It could save some money which is a good thing.
If you salvage something, you don't have to buy another one. Once you have your layout planned and rebuilt, then if you have stuff you are sure you won't use, sell/give for a little income or satisfaction.
As for the code 100, if you prefer not to see it, use it for a staging yard or places you won't have to look at it often. If you have a reasonable amount left over, pass it on.
I know you were i the Boston area before, what area are setting your new layout up in?
Good luck,
Richard
My grandpa is using code 100 in some areas of his layout were is is not visible or staging and such. I would do the same if I had a ton of code 100 laying around. You should easily be able to pull up the balast by wetting it with water first. No getting the track unglued from the module may be harder but it’s do able.
The snap switches I will not may be less useful as their diverging radius is very tight. That would really depend on what your running on your new layout. Still if you find them easy to salvage I’d say take them out, you may later find a use for them!
Regards, Isaac
I model my railroad and you model yours! I model my way and you model yours!
My layout has been rebuilt 4 times. I reused every thing but the 2in foam base. There were too mutch plaster in the wrong places. And the glued on grd.foam
If your track joints were soldered,you have to decide to spend the time to clean them, or just cut em off. If you used the white glue method to hold ballest,that will clean up with warm/hot water thru a spray nozel on a hose.
Of coarse all lumber can be reused. Ther will be some loss. but very little compared to replaceing every thing.
I also mix code 100/83, even have a little brass mixed in. No issues
I'd do my best to upgrade to 83 in a situation like this. Even if salvagable, the difference in rail size of 100 makes it a no go here, but that's just me. If it isn't bothering you, then it's probably as reusable as any...unless you're talking fiber ties, of course!
You use track nails or spikes to do the basic hold down? Spikes are usually a matter of running a stiff-bladed putty knife under the ties (after misting with suitable ballast bonding solvent - see below) and gently lifting it. Track nails? Those are harder to salvage, be gentle is best I can do with that, but may be more frustrating than worth the trouble.
How easy it is to soak the ballast off is the next question. What's the ballast bonded with? I use matte medium, mist it with 91% alcohol and it practically melts off, just needing a rince to clean it up after that.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
Mr. B, I think you already know what you 'should' do; save what you may regret having to purchase later for something you don't know you'll want to do...today. It's sometimes a pain where the sun don't shine to have to do this, but I think you'll thank yourself later. I did. I, like you, wanted to move my medium-sized layout to the new place, but quickly learned that it was wishful thinking. Next, I set about lifting off what I could, soaking it in 3" PVC tubes with hot water and TSP overnight, and then picking off what I knew would get in the way of a fresh and clean lay later. I used almost all of it on one of my twined main lines.
Now, it wasn't Code 100 as I'd already transitioned to Code 83. But my long wide spiral around the room descending to my staging is all Code 100 saved up from earlier layouts.
If it were me, I'd put all my excitement and fresh ideas into the new build, but take comfort in knowing I'd set up some provisions for that effort in 'reclaimed' materials. Oh, and not just rails, but some trees, all my structures, all turnouts, even some wire.
I hope you get tons of pleasure out of this new opportunity.
-Crandell
I recently moved, and now find that the original Phase 1 of my layout doesn't really fit in the new train room, and in fact is too big to get up the stairs. I've started to tear apart that module.
I am retired now, and my income isn't what it used to be.
Thanks.