Thanks for those tips Wayne. I have always had issues working with CA, now I think I may just be using it wrong.
Thanks for that link, Marlon..
While much of what he covered is pretty-much standard practice, I thought the part on the ca-type glues to be a somewhat awkward approach to using such glues.While I have, just very recently, used the method of coating an object with the thicker version of such glue, then inserting it into a hole, it's not always the best or neatest way to apply ca. In this case, I used it only because the hole was somewhat oversize for the part being added.
Where possible, I like to add parts, such as metal grabirons into pre-drilled holes f'rinstance, then apply the ca (the very liquid type) from the interior (unseen) side of the model. The glue will be drawn into the hole, around the wire, but, unless you're overly generous with the glue, will not bleed onto the exterior surface. I usually form a puddle of ca on my glass work-surface, then use an old blade in an X-Acto handle, dipping the tip of the blade into the ca, then using it as an applicator inside the car - easier to see what you're doing than holding the container of ca inside the car and trying to not squeeze-out too much, and also affording better reach and accuracy.
For things such as sill steps, where holes are drilled into the bottom edge of the car's sill, rather than pre-coating the step's mounting legs with glue, it's both easier and neater to insert the steps dry, then, using the same method as outlined above, touching the tip of the blade first to one side of one leg where it enters the hole, and immediately to the other side of the same leg - this causes both applications of glue to not only be drawn into the joint, but also to be drawn towards one another - completely surrounding the mounting point for an extremely strong bond.
Most of my use of ca is for metal parts into metal (where soldering is not an option) or for dissimilar materials, such as metal with plastic.
In some instances, solvent-type cement (I use MEK) is useful for joining plastic with metal, but only if the work includes a mechanical joint, as described below.For example, I'm building a Bowser kit for an A-5 (PRR 0-4-0) for a friend. It's the version with a can motor and an extensive package of super-detailing parts.The locomotive and tender are zinc castings, a not overly-hard material but one not especially friendly to small drill bits. To add grabirons to the sides of the sand box, I drilled two holes in each side, spaced appropriately, using a #48 drill bit (.076" dia.). I then took a piece of Evergreen .080" styrene rod, and dipped one end of it into the bottle of MEK, holding it there for several seconds. The now-softened end of the rod was forced into the under-sized hole. After the oozed-out plastic had re-hardened, the excess was filed off, leaving easily-drilled styrene plugs in which the grabirons can be mounted.
The same technique can be used to easily (and solidly) fill unwanted holes in styrene - simply re-drill (only if necessary) the hole to a size .003"-.005"smaller than the size of the appropriate styrene rod you have on-hand. Use a small brush to coat the inside circumference of the hole and that of the outside of rod using a liquid solvent-type cement, wait a few seconds, then force the rod into the hole. Let the joint harden, then clip-off the excess and file or sand until the plug is flush with the surrounding surface. This plug will not only be invisible once painted, but faster and more permanent than using body putties.
This Varney metal boxcar dates from the mid-'50s. While it had free-standing plastic ladders and metal grabirons, the former were rather clunky compared to what's available nowadays, and the grabirons were incorrectly placed.I stripped off all of the paint, disassembled the car, the re-assembled it somewhat better than original. I then used contact cement to affix .060" sheet styrene to the interior of the car anywhere that holes were present.
Next, using a drill bit smaller than the rod I planned to use, all of the original holes were re-drilled, as was, at the same time, the styrene backing material. All of these holes were then plugged, as outlined previously...
...the corrugated ends necessitated the addition of gluing blocks, as the ladders to be used did not have mounting pegs...
...the holes in the roof for the original running board got plugged, too...
Here's the re-worked car, with new doors and a built-up wood-type running board...
Lettering was done using C-D-S dry transfers.
Wayne
I found an interesting video about glues, types of cement and adhesives.
Glues and adhesives
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR