I use drawbars between some A-B F-unit sets, but I also use them on my old MDC (now Athearn Roundhouse) "Michigan" iron ore cars, connecting them in groups of four. Although there is a prototype precedent (DM&IR four-unit "mini-quads") I mainly did it to allow the cars to be closer together - even with short-shank couplers, the cars were very far apart. I just made the drawbars out of fairly thick styrene and drilled holes for the screws.
Accurail (I think still) makes dummy couplers whose head is almost exactly the same size as a Kadee No.5. I think they list them as being for unit tank trains, but I use on my Walthers ore cars - groups of four cars connect to each other with the dummy couplers, but the "outside" two cars have a Kadee on one side.
Not sure if they do now, but the first runs of Walthers HO "Minnesota" ore cars came with dummy couplers that fit together very tightly, essentially forming a drawbar, but one that could still be separated.
I may be changing the topic a little but I personally would never use draw bars except were the prototype does, and the only example of that I know of is the early FT. I mean this as no offense to anyone holding a different opinion but I will always use standard couplers even if I will always run a set of locomotives together. It seems to me to be more lodgical and more prototypical and more flexible, especially in the case of a failure in one locomotive of a set.
If anyone has a different opinions please give me your reasons, I am very iterested to know why!
Regards, Isaac
I model my railroad and you model yours! I model my way and you model yours!
Thank you gentlemen for the ideas.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
mvlandsw For a more realistic appearance use dummy couplers glued or soldered together. Kadee couplers could also be glued together. Mark Vinski
For a more realistic appearance use dummy couplers glued or soldered together. Kadee couplers could also be glued together.
Mark Vinski
airlines connected together at the gladhands is a very nice addon ..:)
That's exactly what I've done on a few of my permanently coupled sets. Set the couplers together in alignment on the bench and apply some JBWeld to the knuckles from the bottom. Kadee has short, medium and long shanks, so it's easy to get the length you want. For added realism, I add a set of airlines mounted under the couplers that are actually connected together at the gladhands !
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
I use these from State Tool and Die. They are available from Walthers in a pack of ten for $3.00.
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They can be cut into five different lengths.
They holes need to be enlarged a bit, and then they can go into a Kadee #242 snap together coupler box just fine.
They work very well and I have been happy with them.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
If using metal drawbars, make sure they are in insulated coupler boxes. This will prevent shorts if you decide to reverse one of the engines at some future date.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I've made them out of styrene for two sets of Stewart FTs. They did come with two sizes of drawbars but I preferred to make my own.
With a Dremel moto tool you can easily shape what you want, drill the holes, etc.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
As Mel suggests, brass is a good option, as is his suggestion about all-wheel pick-up. I've also made drawbars from .060" sheet styrene. I believe Evergreen also offers their sheet material in black styrene.
Wayne
Are there any available commercially? Those of you who have made your own what did you make them with? I want to connect 3 Athearn SD40s 3 Kato GP30s and , Lifelike f3s and intermountain fs.
Thanks