The Pre-war Track was bought at a Hobby shop locally Also Thanks
Hello All,
On my 4'x8' pike I have several areas that use 15-inch radius sectional track.
There is a wye that uses #2 PECO turnouts and another is a spiral trestle (helix).
I have a MU of two GP30s that can negotiate these curves.
On the mainline the curves are asymmetrical; half of the curve is 15-inch the other half is 18-inch radius sectional track and they are super elevated.
My coal drag of eighteen 34-foot hoppers is pulled by an MU of four GP40s and they negotiate the mainline curves with no problem.
The coal loading siding is comprised of #2 PECO turnouts and the GP40 four unit consist negotiates this trackage just fine.
One thing to pay attention to is coupler swing.
On the GPs the couplers are free-swinging with out having to modify the draft gear boxes/pockets.
Even on my GE 70-tonner I had to use long shank couplers to accommodate the smaller radius curves.
All the vintage rolling stock has been converted to body mounted couplers and Kadee couplers.
The frogs are all un-powered and I make sure that even my GE 44-tonner has all wheel pickup.
Many older locomotives only pickup power from one set of trucks rather than both sets.
Upgrading to all wheel pickup might not be possible, depending on the age of the locomotive and might not be cost effective.
One question I have is...
Safety Valve...the tight 30s pre-war curves and switches...
The prototype GP9s didn't come into existence until the mid 1950's.
Where did you acquire the track?
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
Most American HO equipment needs 18 inch radius curves. You can tune up rolling stock for tight curves by checking that the trucks swing freely and don't hit or get caught on bits and pieces of the undercarriage. Check wheel gauge. Add as much weight as possible to locomotives, weight cars up to the NMRA recommendations. Check coupler swing. Good luck.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
You most likely just need to get the trucks to swing a little bit further. Figure our what is hitting and remove it.
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If the gear towers are hitting the inside of the body shell that will be a lot more work.
Make sure the universals or drive shaft couplings have enough motion as well.
You should really try to run it under its own power first. Pushing a powered locmotive can be misleading.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Hello! upon aquiring an AHM electric Train (With a GP9), I was attempting to "run it" (really pushing it) to see how well it could go across the tight 30s pre-war curves and switches which it doesn't go well across, without replacing the chassis how could one convert one to be able to run on such tight curves, Thanks!