Locomotives

[PC101]

SeeYou190

 

PC101

Looks like my most liked are DCC with and without sound.

 

 

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I'll bet it would be a job to put a decoder in the Kato NW2.

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If I ran DCC I would need to try. That, and my Atlas S2 are extremely smooth running engines that make switching and car movements a joy.

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-Kevin

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I'm sure that there are way more DCC decoders now then back when I aquired that Kato NW2. DCC only or DCC with sound, that would be my question.

EDIT: Oh, now I see why it never polished rail or never got modified, it's in Con-Rail blue livery. 

[SeeYou190]

PC101

Looks like my most liked are DCC with and without sound.

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I'll bet it would be a job to put a decoder in the Kato NW2.

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If I ran DCC I would need to try. That, and my Atlas S2 are extremely smooth running engines that make switching and car movements a joy.

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-Kevin

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[PC101]

SeeYou190

 

PC101

The ones with smilies are my favorite at this time.

 

 

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Not a single one of your smileys would have matched mine.

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Right now, my Kato NW2 is my absolute favorite. I noticed yours did not have a smiley.

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-Kevin

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(NOB) Never out of the box.

Looks like my most liked are DCC with and without sound.

Now if I'd been asked which were my favorite 25 to 30 years ago, things would be marked different.

[SeeYou190]

PC101

The ones with smilies are my favorite at this time.

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Not a single one of your smileys would have matched mine.

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Right now, my Kato NW2 is my absolute favorite. I noticed yours did not have a smiley.

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-Kevin

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[Midwest Northern R.R]

I use mostly Bachmann, Older Athearn loco's. Alot of my older locos run just as smooth as the IHC Lehigh Valley in my profile Pic. 

• Bachmann ATSF FT Unit
• Bachmann UP SD-45 #977
• Bachmann UP GP-35 #866
• Bachmann Mikado #2528
• Athearn S-12 #25
• Athearn GP-35 #1347
• IHC Cons. #707<(My profile Pic)

Moving Into O Scale ('Cause I Wan't To)

• Lionel Scout #1130
• Lionel Scout #295(?)
• Lionel Pennsy Columbia #8602
• Louis Marx & Co. UP 100003

That's pretty much all I have to brag about. I can never complain about any of my engines, exept for my (partially) restored Marx loco. She runs a bit jumpy, and the reversing unit is faulty. However, my Lionel locos all run as if they were bought yesterday. All of my HO locos (with the exeption of #2528) Run as if brand new. I always make sure of smooth operation in my locos, and if repair is needed, I, being the good person I am (don't worry, I'm not saying you aren't bad people), shall preform all neccesary repairs.

countryman-Thank you for starting this forum feed! :)

[PC101]

countryman

I'm just curious. What ho scale locomotive brands do you use.

 

This is something to think about. Which Loco's. I did use and which Loco's I do use. I have had no less then 12 layouts in my Model Rail Roading life. The first being taped down to the tile floor using shoeboxs for buildings and Athearn Blue Box's for tunnels. Oh and slot car throttles for train controls with twist ties to hold the triggers. The leads switched on some of the motors so the loco's would run opposit then normal. 

I will list the HO Loco's in alphabetical order, noted as mothballed (MB), switched on and off layouts (SO&O), never out of the box to touch rail head (NOB), currently running (CR), excellent runner (ER), master series (MS), repair shop (RS), super gearing (SG), DCC (DCC), Sound (S) and (PITB). The ones with smilies  are my favorite at this time.

AHM By Rivarossi.

(1) 0-8-0 Switcher (MB) 

(1) 2-8-2 Heavy Mikado (MB, ER)

ATHEARN

(2) F7B (SG, MB)

(2) GP9 (MB, ER)

(4) F7A (SG, MB, ER)

(1) PA-1 (MB, ER)

(1) PB-1 (MB, ER)

(2) U30C (NOB)

(1) S-12 (NOB)

(1) SD9 (MB, ER)

(2) SW1500 (SG, ER, CR)

(1) SDP40 (NOB)

(1) SD45 (MB, ER)

(2) SW7 (ER, SO&O)

(1) GP35 (MB, ER)

(1) EMD DD40 (MB, ER)

(1) FM TRAIN MASTER (MB, ER)

ATHEARN GENEISIS

(2) F7A (CR, DCC, S, ER)

(2) F7B (CR, DCC, S, ER)

ATLAS

(2) SD24 (MB, ER)

(4) RS3 (SO&O, DCC, S, ER)

(1) RSD4/5 (SO&O, ER)

(2) RS11 (SO&O, ER)

(3) ALCO C-425 (SO&O, ER)

(4) ALCO C-424 (NOB)

(7) GP7 (CR, DCC, ER)

(2) U33C (SO&O, ER)

(1) U23B (CR, ER)

(5) RS1 (SO&O, ER)

(2) FM TRAIN MASTER (RS, DCC, S, ER)

(1) GP40 (NOB)

(3) GP38 (MS, CR, DCC, S, ER)

(1) DASH 8-40B (MS, NOB)

(2) GP40 (MS, CR, ER)

(11) SD35 (MS, CR, DCC, S, ER)

 

 

BROADWAY LIMITED IMPORTS 

(1) M1b (SO&O, DCC, S, ER)

(1) M1a (SO&O, DCC, S, ER)

(2) EMD SW7 (CR, DCC, S, ER)

(1) I1 2-10-0 (CR, DCC, S, ER)

(1) H10 2-8-0 (CR, DCC, S, ER)

(1) ALCO RSD15 (CR, DCC, S, ER)

(1) SW1500 (CR, DCC, S, PITB)

BACHMANN & SPECTRUM

(1) GP30 (MB)

(3) GE 44 Ton (MB)

(1) GE 70 Ton (MB)

(1) K4 #1361 (NOB)

(1) 0-6-0 Saddle Tank (MB, PITB)

(1) 80 Ton 3 Truck Shay (MB)

BOWSER / PENNLINES 

(1) H9

(1) E6

(3) ALCO C628 (CR, DCC, S, ER)

(2) ALCO C630 (CR, DCC, S, ER)

CON-COR

(1) FA2 (MB, ER, DCC)

(1) FB2 (MB, ER, DCC)

HOBBY TOWN OF BOSTON

(1) GP-38-9-20 Chassie only (MB)

KATO

(1) EMD NW2 (NOB)

(1) EMD SD45 (NOB)

(1) EMD GP35 (MB)

LIFE LIKE / PROTO 2000 ALL WITH AXEL GEAR REPLACMENT

(1) FA1 (DCC, CR, ER)

(1) FB1 (DCC, CR, ER)

(1) BL2 (MB)

(1) FA2 9MB)

(1) SD7 (MB)

(3) GP9 (CR, DCC, ER)

(2) SW9-1200 (MB)

(1) GP7 (SO&O, ER)

(1) SD9 (MB)

(4) GP30 (DCC, SO&O, ER)

(1) ALCO S1 (MB)

(1) ALCO S3 (MB)

(1) EMD SD45 (DCC, CR, ER)

MANTUA

(1) Cherry Valley Lumber co. #25 Logger w/tender (NOB)

(1) 4-6-4 Hudson (NOB)

MODEL DIE CAST

(3) Climax

(2) Boxcab

(1) RS3

(1) 2 Truck Shay

MODEL POWER

(1) Boxcab (shop built, PITB)

RAIL POWER PRODUCTS

(2) EMD CF7 (MB)

RIVAROSSI

(1) 2 Truck Heisler (NOB)

STEWART

(1) Baldwin AS16

(1) Baldwin RS12

(2) F3 (DCC, S, CR, ER)

(1) F7A (DCC, S, CR, ER)

(1) F7B (DCC, S, CR,ER)

TYCO

(1) F7A (SF #4015 Blue and yellow, my first loco.)(MB)

WALTHERS

(2) EMD SW1 (NOB)

(1) GP16/GP9M (MB)

(1) GP15 (NOB)

WALTHERS PROTO 2000

(1) FM H10-44 (NOB)

THE BRASS LOCO'S.

(1) AKANE 4-8-4 Heavy USRA (MB)

(1) SEIKO 4-8-2 M1b (MB)

(1) PRESCALE Class A 20 Ton Shay (MB)

(1) PFM UNITED 2-8-2 L1 (MB)

(1) PFM UNITED 2-10-0 I1 (MB) 

(2) PFM UNITED 4-6-2 K4 (MB)

[BroadwayLion]

LION worries not about who makes them.

 

Whoever makes HO scale subway cars in my price range is my friend.

 

ROAR

[nwsisu]

SeeYou190

 Sorry, I used wrong terminology. I don't have, or plan to have, any stock cars.

What I meant is that I have been buying miscellaneous cars at train shows, for cheap,  just to get started. Some of them are good quality, and fit my theme, and others don't quite fit in and will eventually be replaced. Just basic freight cars, hoppers, excursion, caboose, etc...

 

nwsisu

I have been buying used stock cars at train shows.

 

 

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Interesting... stock cars lettered for freelanced railroads you say?

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HO scale? I just might have something along those lines that you can have...

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-Kevin

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[emdmike]

I do that from time to time, keeps people on their toes!  lmao!   But back to the topic, in my early teens my motive power was Athearn Blue Box and Atlas/Kato yellow box diesels.  But in my late teens, thanks to my lucrative lawn mowing business, I started buying brass.  I gradually shifted all my motive power to brass models, PFM/United Shays and Overland diesels for the most part.  I did rehab a few Alco Models and Hallmark diesels to run better with can motors and rebuilt/replaced trucks.   The fragility of the new super detailed diesels was a huge turn off for me as I took my models to and from the local club every week.  My brass steam and diesels held up just fine.  That is why I chose what I did.  Not saying its better or worse, just what worked best for me.    Mike the Aspie

 

[SeeYou190]

emdmike

In HO scale I run locomotives from Overland Models(brass)

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Hi Mike. I did not realize that was you since you changed your avatar.

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-Kevin

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[SPSOT fan]

countryman

I'm just curious. What ho scale locomotive brands do you use.

Well that's a broad question!

I don't do much in HO (switch mostly to N) but I have a nice P2K SW7 with a great motor. I got it used and damaged, but the motor is intact and it runs super reliably. I'd if your going used go for P2K.

I also like Athearn Genesis, Bowser and Atlas models if your buying new. I don't own any though because I find buying new locos to be a bit expensive for me at the moment. My only experience with these brands comes from other people's models.

I'd say if you want advice about buying loco's, select loco for the railroad you need, and look at reviews for the individual loco, not the brand.

[SeeYou190]

nwsisu

I have been buying used stock cars at train shows.

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Interesting... stock cars lettered for freelanced railroads you say?

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HO scale? I just might have something along those lines that you can have...

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-Kevin

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[nwsisu]

Due to space- and time limitations, my HO scale layout is only 9x6 feet, with 18" curves, which limits me to shorter engines and stock.

I'm freelancing, with imaginary railroads, so it doesn't matter what railroad name units I purchase since I plan on repainting them anyway.

Current goal is to have two diesels and one steam, for mining activity, local excursions, and freight.

I am doing all DCC.

I bought 2 Bachmann SoundValue diesels a while back, on clearance, and finally bought a BLI steam, also on clearance. I have been buying used stock cars at train shows.

So, based on my goals, and budget, I buy units on clearance, regardless of brand, as long as the units are good quality (decent reviews), and are compatible with my layout and theme.

[emdmike]

In HO scale I run locomotives from Overland Models(brass).   In gauge 0 and 1, I have engines from Bassett Lowke, Lionel, USA Trains, Bachmann and LGB.  

[rrinker]

 (duplicate message)

[rrinker]

 I buy what fits me era. SO mostly P2K, Stewart/Bowser (all of them run well for me), Atlas. Pretty much covers it for diesels. One Mantua steamer because it;s a reasonable stand in, a couple of PCM ones, and if I want any other potential maybe just slightly still operating in my time frame steam locos I'd have to go to brass, or craft my own frame for the old Bachmann train set class 2-8-0, since the Bowser replacements are long gone. Or build my own on an existing mechanism ala RDG Casey.

                                --Randy

 

[ATSFGuy]

Athearn RTR, Athearn Genesis, Atlas, Atlas Master Series, Broadway Limited Imports, and perhaps some Scaletrains Rivet Counter models.

Still looking into SRC......

[thomas81z]

i have 27 big boys mostly rivarossi but have 5 bli & 3 athearn & 2 MTH

various diesel all first gen then of course most of those are PROTO2K

i have athearn turbine & 2 u-50s 

bachmann EM1 with full tsunami even thou i model union pacific lol

all the manufactures have stepped up thier game so you really cant go wrong

RR_Mel

Well remember this is Weirdo Mel here. 

 

My favorite steam locomotives are Rivarossi Articulateds.  I have 19 restored and remotored Rivarossis, all run great!!!   All with added weight and they will pull your socks off.

 

My favorite diesels are Athearn SD40 frames with Cary E7 diesel shells, close to 2lbs per locomotive for super drawbar.

 

 

Mel

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

 

[Darth Santa Fe]

countryman

I'm just curious. What ho scale locomotive brands do you use.

I personally use Bachmann, Athearn, Hobbytown, Kato, Atlas, Roco, Tyco, Samhongsa, Mantua, Bowser, MDC, Proto, KMT, Penn Line, Tenshodo, IHC, Rivarossi, DJH, and a few others.  I know, it's a small list, but I like to stick with what I don't know.

[PRR8259]

First I preface my comments by stating very clearly that I do not expect others to do what I do.  Nothing below should be construed to imply that anyone should buy what I buy.

My purchase decisions are based upon what I want on my layout--which is currently big Alco/MLW diesels.  That limits my choices a great deal.  I love Kato engines, or those engines produced in the past that had Kato or Kato-clone drives, even the current Kato Dash 9's can be great engines.  That in itself is limiting because few were Alcos.

Because I need big six alxe Alco/MLW's on the layout, I am pretty much left with:

Overland Models/Ajin Precision brass imports

Oriental Limited/Challenger Models (Samhongsa built) brass imports or

Older Alco Models brass imports (which are not as nicely detailed as today's Bowser)

Bowser current generation plastic models (many brass details).

I have both Overland and Bowser engines in service.  There are pros and cons to both.  There are plenty of road specific details on both product lines.  The Overlands have more "see-through" screens, and, depending on the production run, can more accurately represent specific individual units.  Both are capable of running very well indeed.  Both can be found with dcc, though the Bowser's now offer working class lights and of course sound, which was not offered when the Overlands were made.

So, liking one particular prototype engine or family of engines can dictate the purchase choices.

John

[xboxtravis7992]

To sort of toss my opinion on the Bachmann stuff out there, my first engines were their low end stuff. Not something I ever plan on buying again those low end Bachmann models, detailing and tooling looks pretty dated and I'd rather save up to spend more on an Athearn/Walthers/Rapido/ScaleTrains type model than on a lower end Bachmann.

But Bachmann's Spectrum line is excellent, and I have heard good things about their On30 line. From what I have seen online if you ever dabble in British OO stuff Bachmann Europe is also a strong contender for high quality and good detail in that market. Those upcoming Siemmens products for Bachmann look great too, the Charger prototype for example looks as good as any product on the shelf these days.

Why the disparity between the different products? As previously mentioned some brands have different 'tiers' of detailing. Bachmann and to an extent Athearn's Ready to Run line, a lot of lower priced Atlas stuff, and Scale Trains 'Operator Series'; all exist to fill the demand in the market for lower detail models at budget pricing for entry level modelers. Bachmann's just look cruder because the tooling and designs they use for their entry level stuff just so happens to be several decades old, showing the limitations of a pre-CAD era in the hobby. But their higher end brands, Spectrum and their European stuff are all modern post-CAD era stuff; and really show the increase in detail digital modeling has brought to our hobby. 

Frankly, while its not my cup of tea anymore I am glad Bachmann is covering the entry level pricing for the hobby. Its probably the closest to an affordable entry point our hobby has for teenagers and kids, and for a more experienced modeler can offer a cheap body to practice their super detailing skills on. Besides its much more affordable to build up a Bachmann fleet of GP40's than it is to say buy one DCC/Sound equiped 'Museum Quality Gas Turbine' from ScaleTrains! 

[Eilif]

I like cheap-and-reliable and usually buy used. In order of amount I own, my favorites are:

-Athearn, mostly used Blue Box.   Simple to service and strong pullers though not as generally as quiet as others.

-Bachman, Used Spectrum and new and used examples of the current base level which is about the same drive and detail as Spectrum was.  These tend to have better details compared to my other favorites.  

-Base level Walthers. Really smooth runners with good pull.

-Model Power/Mantua/MPC (Mostly 8wd models) Very simple drives but as easy to service as Athearn BB and can run pretty quiet if you tune them right.

I have some others including AHM, IHC, Lima etc, but not as many as they don't tend to run quite as well or be as easy to repair. I also have a couple of lovely higher-end locos from Kato and Athearn, but they are the exception.

[Trainman440]

I tend to buy used, to save money. I have mostly steam engines, so I cant say for diesels. Assuming all manufacturers made the SAME model, this would be who I'd buy from:

SUMMARY (from best to worst): Trix, Proto 2000/Athearn, BLI, MTH, Rivarossi new, Bachmann, IHC, Bowser, Mantua, TYCO, Rivarossi old, Bachmann old

Bachmann's steam engines are great, as long as you arent aiming for prototypicality. They are super cheap and run well. 

BLI is generally my go to, since they have a nice balance between price and models. Runs well, and very detailed, though not as good as Proto 2000/Athearn genesis.

Proto 2000/Athearn genesis is top notch, but costs a lot. I like to buy broken ones cheap and fix them up. 

MTH is overpriced, but their engines have the best sound(imo) and smoke. Runs as good as Proto 2000 and Athearn Genesis. They also retain their value the most. (besides brass)

I only get brass when the above manufacturers dont make a model I want. As I model the santa fe, quite a few of my engines are brass. 

[blackpowder1956]

My collection spans 40 years. I model the Union Pacific transition from steam to diesel. The older Atlas and Kato have always been very reliable. I have a number of re-engineered Athearn Blue Box diesel locomotives. The Athearn Genesis series have generally been pretty good. BLI steam locomotives are decent but prohibitively expensive. Over the last 40 years I have picked up several brass engines: a PFM 0-6-0 switcher, a Samshongsa 4-6-0, a Key 2-10-2, an Ajin 4-8-4, and an Overland cow/ calf TR5 switcher set. I have installed decoders in my Athearn, Atlas, and Kato engines. The brass is another story. For custom painting and sound/ decoder installs I have entrusted Derrell Poole of 7th Street Shops in Hamilton, MT. Derrell does a superb job. I usually supply my own photographs of the prototype as well as supporting information from the Union Pacific Historical Society. 

[ATLANTIC CENTRAL]

BRAKIE

 

 

ATLANTIC CENTRAL

Going by brand does not insure satisfaction.

 

 

Sheldon,I can't complain about my Atlas/Classic,Atlas/Kato or my four Atlas/Roco S-4s since they are smoth runners as is my lone Kato GP35.

A 40 year old Atlas/Roco S4 runs as smooth as my Atlas/China S2. That alone speaks well for Atlas locomotives.

Of course my 50 plus year old United Models Santa Fe 2-8-0 with its Pittman DC70 motor still runs good.

 

That may be, Atlas generally makes great stuff, I was selling train back when they first came out.

But I don't own any. They have made very little in my pre 1955 era, and what they have made can be pricey and hard to find.

By comparison, most of my diesels are pre Walthers Proto2000, where a big selection of 1st generation diesels have been offered over the years with lots of different detail options, great undec versions with a wealth of detail parts, and they all run great, at leat after replacing a gear or two. And mostly at half the price of an Atlas loco. 

In my fleet, multiple copies of: GP7, SD9, BL2, Alco FA1/FB1, Alco FA1/FB2, Alco PA/PB, Alco S1, Walthers Proto F7, and more.

I also have multiple versions/roadnames of Genesis F units, and Intermountain F and FP units.

Atlas has made very few of the locos on my roster, so for me it of little concern how good they are, they don't fit my theme.

But the point of my comment would be someone pre judging an Athearn Genesis F unit because of the problems with the Athearn Genesis Mikado - what a big mistake that would be.

Sheldon

[BRAKIE]

ATLANTIC CENTRAL

Going by brand does not insure satisfaction.

Sheldon,I can't complain about my Atlas/Classic,Atlas/Kato or my four Atlas/Roco S-4s since they are smoth runners as is my lone Kato GP35.

A 40 year old Atlas/Roco S4 runs as smooth as my Atlas/China S2. That alone speaks well for Atlas locomotives.

Of course my 50 plus year old United Models Santa Fe 2-8-0 with its Pittman DC70 motor still runs good.

[ATLANTIC CENTRAL]

No, but you can ask others about their experiance with a specific model. As explained above. Going by brand does not insure satisfaction. As about a specific model and those who have that model can offer their thoughts.

Sheldon

[kasskaboose]

Is there a way to test out the different brands before you buy?

I like any that are DCC-friendly, reliable, and inexpensive.

[csxns]

Scale Trains#1, Athearn Genesis#2,Atlas#3 my top best.