rrinker HD and Lowes in my area all have extruded foam. But no 4x8 sheets, it's all 2x8. Just use 2 of them for a 4x8 layout, or consider alternative shapes that give you more layout area in the same foootprint. --Randy
Yep 2' x 8' are easier to find even up here in the Great White North.
Just a side note, this was the first layout I built using foam and spline. I considered it an experiment and my findings were, I would use foam and spline again except I would not put mainline track on foam as it became a little rock and rolly over time. I would run spline for all or most of the mainline and I like it way better than cookie cutter and it is really cheap. For sidings and yards I really like using the foam as it is so easy to contour with ditches, holes, dirt roads going up and down..... This bench is 6' x 18' and you can see the 2' x 8' sheets. They are placed on open grid, the only place there is plywood is on this end to give the curved end some support. All 200lbs of me has climb up onto the foam to work on the layout, I kneel on a 1/4" sheet of plywood that is 20" x 30" and when I get off there is no evidence I was ever there.
Just a side note, this was the first layout I built using foam and spline. I considered it an experiment and my findings were, I would use foam and spline again except I would not put mainline track on foam as it became a little rock and rolly over time. I would run spline for all or most of the mainline and I like it way better than cookie cutter and it is really cheap. For sidings and yards I really like using the foam as it is so easy to contour with ditches, holes, dirt roads going up and down.....
This bench is 6' x 18' and you can see the 2' x 8' sheets. They are placed on open grid, the only place there is plywood is on this end to give the curved end some support. All 200lbs of me has climb up onto the foam to work on the layout, I kneel on a 1/4" sheet of plywood that is 20" x 30" and when I get off there is no evidence I was ever there.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
HD and Lowes in my area all have extruded foam. But no 4x8 sheets, it's all 2x8. Just use 2 of them for a 4x8 layout, or consider alternative shapes that give you more layout area in the same foootprint.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
kenbenOK, my Home Depot does not carry the 2" 4ʻx8ʻ extruded blue/pink foamboard. Who else carries this? And one last question... Elmerʻs Yellow or White Wood Glue? For benchwork? For laying down cork roadbed?
Sorry but your on your own asto where to find the foam. I use mostly scrapes, I find for free. I can tell you , you don't need 2in, its better but 1or even 3/4 works also. I resided the house 2 yrs ago, used 3/4 pink as added insulation,under the siding, I have enough odds and ends to last me till after the funeral.
The yellow glue as said to be water proof,other then that its the same as white. I didn't use any glue on the bench work,and have no issue. I think any wood glue would work.
AS for road bed and track. Any ole cheap laytex caulk. Just a thin smear is enuff. And its removeble if needed.
kenbenOK, my Home Depot does not carry the 2" 4ʻx8ʻ extruded blue/pink foamboard. Who else carries this?
It's not available in the south east, south west, parts or maybe all of California.
In previous threads, one would have to special order, more than you can possibly use. Local insulation firms may have it, but want a huge mark up, compared to what it is sold for in the North.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
carl425 ATLANTIC CENTRAL Titebond....... I, II or III?
ATLANTIC CENTRAL Titebond.......
I, II or III?
Well, III of course.
Sheldon
ATLANTIC CENTRALTitebond.......
I have the right to remain silent. By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.
UNCLEBUTCH ATLANTIC CENTRAL Easy, when I climb a short step ladder, put down a protective mat and lean on the layout, a large percentage of my 200lbs is now supported by the benchwork Well OK, but I and I"M sure others have never needed to use the layout as scaffolding.....
ATLANTIC CENTRAL
Well OK, but I and I"M sure others have never needed to use the layout as scaffolding.....
Sheldon's not the only modeller climbing on his layout. I spent some time lounging on the upper level at the far end of this aisle...
I needed to paint the normally unseen back side of the rails on a wide curve up there, just in case I one day decide to place a camera, facing the aisle, for a photo or two.Construction is 5/8" plywood atop a grid of 1"x2" and 1"x4". The layout there is 38" deep, and I weigh nowhere near 200lbs.
Wayne
kenben OK, my Home Depot does not carry the 2" 4ʻx8ʻ extruded blue/pink foamboard. Who else carries this? And one last question... Elmerʻs Yellow or White Wood Glue? For benchwork? For laying down cork roadbed? Thanks.
OK, my Home Depot does not carry the 2" 4ʻx8ʻ extruded blue/pink foamboard. Who else carries this?
And one last question... Elmerʻs Yellow or White Wood Glue? For benchwork? For laying down cork roadbed?
Thanks.
Titebond.......
And Homabed/Cascade Rail Supply not cork.
https://cascaderailsupply.com/
And nail it down with a brad nailer.....to the 3/4" plywood.
.
Menard's in Indiana has it.
I brought back a whole truck full of two inch foam and Homasote to Florida last year.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
jjdamnitBut "They" do make 1-inch plywood.
Drat! It is only available in-store, and not sold in South Florida.
UNCLEBUTCH kenben reach is not an issue. There is a center open area that I "could" place a pop-out area for scenery in the future. But everythign is within a 2ʻ reach
kenben reach is not an issue. There is a center open area that I "could" place a pop-out area for scenery in the future. But everythign is within a 2ʻ reach
Well OK, I do remember reading that early on. I would still use 3/4" plywood.
Hello All,
I'll throw the proverbial "spanner in the works"...
Many of the responses have been focused on bench work.
You have not specified what method of support you are using.
To really answer your question of thickness of plywood sub roadbed that information would be helpful.
kenben...they will be cut up a bit for track elevations etc.
For your elevations are you planning on using the cookie cutter method or are you planning on adding risers on top of the sub roadbed?
Sharing these answers will help folks on this forum better address your specific issues.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
UNCLEBUTCHWhat you plan on doing makes perfect sence,if he [the OP] voiced an interest in a layout such as you plan, he didn't.
Well actually, he kinda did. He said his dimensions were 8ʻ x 6 1/2ʻ, which very well might result in a layout that gets climbed on top of. It'll at least get leaned on pretty firmly.
UNCLEBUTCH ATLANTIC CENTRAL I'm sure even a "newby" can figure out what his situation might require...... But thats my point,they don,t there for they ask. I feel we should be stating the bare, minimal facts,and not over loading them with info they don't need,didn't ask for. What you plan on doing makes perfect sence,if he [the OP] voiced an interest in a layout such as you plan, he didn't. Kinda like telling me how to build a clock,and where to get the parts,because I asked for the time of day. just MO.
ATLANTIC CENTRAL I'm sure even a "newby" can figure out what his situation might require......
But thats my point,they don,t there for they ask. I feel we should be stating the bare, minimal facts,and not over loading them with info they don't need,didn't ask for. What you plan on doing makes perfect sence,if he [the OP] voiced an interest in a layout such as you plan, he didn't.
Kinda like telling me how to build a clock,and where to get the parts,because I asked for the time of day. just MO.
But the OP says his layout plan is 8' x 6-1/2' ? Sounds like an island layout, with pretty deep reach in distances to me? Short of seeing a diagram to the contrary?
Did I miss something?
ATLANTIC CENTRALI'm sure even a "newby" can figure out what his situation might require......
Marc_MagnusYes heavy, but this is a permanent layout, but with two friends we have move all the modules quiet easily and put them in a container for my move in Canada.
Welcome Marc!
What part of the Great White North are you moving to? Train Guys are always welcome. If you end up on the West Coast and need help putting the layout back together let me know.
I use 3/4 plywood for my N scale roadbed
The layout itself is open grid construction with 3/4 plywood bolted to an iron frame; the layout is divided in numerous modules each has his own iron frame.
This was done to move if necessary the layout.
Yes heavy, but this is a permanent layout, but with two friends we have move all the modules quiet easily and put them in a container for my move in Canada.
Mark R.I'll always remember a comment made by Tony Koester many years ago when asked why he used 3/4" plywood for his road bed. His response was that nobody made 1" plywood.
But "They" do make 1-inch plywood.
UNCLEBUTCH ATLANTIC CENTRAL Easy, when I climb a short step ladder, put down a protective mat and lean on the layout, a large percentage of my 200lbs is now supported by the benchwork Well OK, but I and I"M sure others have never needed to use the layout as scaffolding. Perhaps thouse who do should issue a disclamer stating such, I think that would help newbes not to over think, over build, and overspend,on benchwork thats not normally needed.
ATLANTIC CENTRAL Easy, when I climb a short step ladder, put down a protective mat and lean on the layout, a large percentage of my 200lbs is now supported by the benchwork
Well OK, but I and I"M sure others have never needed to use the layout as scaffolding.
Perhaps thouse who do should issue a disclamer stating such, I think that would help newbes not to over think, over build, and overspend,on benchwork thats not normally needed.
I guess that depends a lot on the layout design. If you are happy with 2' deep shelf layout concepts, then it is very likely you will not need benchwork as strong as mine.
But I like deep scenery, my new layout will be around the walls of my basement with two peninsulas out into the space. The benchwork along the walls will mostly be between 3 and 4 feet deep. The peninsulas will be 8' wide to accommodate the 40" radius and larger curves on the double track mainline.
There will be access hatches in places, but climbing/leaning on benchwork will be necessary from time to time.
Trackwork will mostly be within 24 to 30 inches from the layout front edge, but scenery construction will require that extra reach in places.
One section will have a 20' long, eight track freight yard, behind that the double track mainline, behind that a passenger terminal with 4 tracks - 14 tracks requires a minimum depth of 28", without even allowing for passenger platforms or other separating features. Behind the passenger tracks will be a city scene........the 48" depth barely works.........
I'm sure even a "newby" can figure out what his situation might require......
ATLANTIC CENTRALEasy, when I climb a short step ladder, put down a protective mat and lean on the layout, a large percentage of my 200lbs is now supported by the benchwork
ATLANTIC CENTRALEasy to cut?, you mean messy to cut.
Not to prolong a point, but when I score one side of the extruded foam, then snap it, I end up with less mess than the sawdust involved in cutting plywood.
As you and others have said, what works for you ...
York1 John
I asked my doctor if I gave up delicious food and all alcohol, would I live longer? He said, "No, but it will seem longer."
I use 1/2" G1S for both decking and sub-roadbed. I don't see the necessity to pay for anything more substantial because I have no problems with my method of construction or with shifting materials subsequent to starting scenery (with all that water) and running trains. In fact, I have used 3/8" finish-quality ply when, due to normal variance in construction, I need an extra bit of clearance overhead. I just keep the supporting elements to within a span of about 12". So far, so good.
UNCLEBUTCH betamax I actually did some rough testing of the deflection in a 5' by 2.5' frame built out of Baltic Birch. The boards were 3.5" wide. For the test I piled precision weights on the center of the frame, with a total of 73.8 lbs. in the center. Using a laser I marked a zero point, added the weight, and measured the difference. With the frame made of 12mm plywood, with five crosspieces of 12mm, the deflection at the center was 1/8". Same construction with 18m How is it even possible, to get 70lbs of MR stuff in a 5ft span ?
betamax I actually did some rough testing of the deflection in a 5' by 2.5' frame built out of Baltic Birch. The boards were 3.5" wide. For the test I piled precision weights on the center of the frame, with a total of 73.8 lbs. in the center. Using a laser I marked a zero point, added the weight, and measured the difference. With the frame made of 12mm plywood, with five crosspieces of 12mm, the deflection at the center was 1/8". Same construction with 18m
How is it even possible, to get 70lbs of MR stuff in a 5ft span ?
Easy, when I climb a short step ladder, put down a protective mat and lean on the layout, a large percentage of my 200lbs is now supported by the benchwork.
I like deep scenes, most of my new layout will be 3-4 feet deep, with most trackage in the front 30".
York1 ATLANTIC CENTRAL Still don't understand the attraction of foam? But to each their own. It's very lightweight, it's easy to cut, it's rigid and strong, and it can be shaped and glued into just about anything I want without using a lot of tools. I also think some people have regular old styrofoam confused with the extruded foam we use.
ATLANTIC CENTRAL Still don't understand the attraction of foam? But to each their own.
It's very lightweight, it's easy to cut, it's rigid and strong, and it can be shaped and glued into just about anything I want without using a lot of tools.
I also think some people have regular old styrofoam confused with the extruded foam we use.
I work in the construction trades, I am very familiar with the product, that is why I will not use it for model trains. In my business of restoring old houses we avoid it as well.
It will not support my weight, my benchwork must support me if necessary.
Easy to cut?, you mean messy to cut.
Lightweight is not a requirement or advantage for me.
Glad it works for you.
ATLANTIC CENTRALStill don't understand the attraction of foam? But to each their own.
Eh! Plywood? Watt is this plywood of which ewe speak.
LION used 1/2" Celotex (The OLD kind made before the advent of fire codes). Today's Celotex is a company making many things, but not the "old Celotex"
This material is lighter than Homasote, and much less dense. It is easier to cut, and seems to also be mor rigid than Homasote.
Lion use 16" centers for support. This is important since that is how much space is needed to get a drill between the supports.
I used up all ten sheets on my layout. I was over in the Gym the other day and saw several more sheets of the stuff. The seem to have torn out a ceiling someplace.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS