headlight modification

[ShaunCN]

ok thanks guys, i'm still considering all of my options here, still thinking of shortening th esnoot nose to the regular lenght. I model the 70's and CN centertanly didn't have their SD40u's yet, but i fi shorten the snoot nose and remove the DB brakes i could make a good model of a GT unit. One thing with shortening the nose is that you end up with ahole in the front porch that would have to be covered.

Too many possibility's.

[CP5415]

Shawn, I found a CP nose kit

http://www.modeltraincrossing.com/229_ho_dieselparts.htm
or
http://www.walthers.com/exec/search?category=Part&scale=H&manu=229&item=3605&keywords=&instock=Q&split=30&Submit=Search

Gordon

[AntonioFP45]

Shaun,

This may not be much but I hope it points you in the right direction. I checked in my 2005 Walther's Catalog. Go to your LHS as they "SHOULD" have a countertop copy.

Cannon & Company makes the "Snoot" diesel nose itself. Part #191-1106.
See page 954.

This nose has no headlight however, you might be able to use the following:
Detail Associates #229-1008 or #229-1004. See page 961. Whichever headlight you purchase, be sure to carefully drill all the way through the headlight opening as the back is actually sealed off. Install Athearn or other clear lenses in the opening. I'm assuming you want to use a "Flush Fitting" headlight, not the bulky headlight that SP used.

Whether you keep the nose on your unit or change it over to the Cannon, you will need to refer to a very good prototype photo.

Don't rush! A small project can "decevingly" look like a quicky! ( I learned my lesson when I damaged an Athearn FP45 while installing "see thru" radiator grills).

CAREFULLY mark the area on the nose for cutting out. Remember, it should be slightly smaller than your headlight. Too big and you have to start slapping in the putty!

For something like this, I prefer to drill a series of tiny holes within the area. #50 and #68 drill bits would be helpful. First drill one hole in the center, next drill holes "inside of the corners". Go slow as tiny drill bits can sometimes slide across smooth surfaces. Continue to drill out the remaining area until it looks like "Swiss Cheese". By now it will be easy to push in and break off the remaining plastic with a file. Next, check your light against the nose. Carefully file the edges until your headlight fits in snuggly.

Now for "The Fun" part (hope you realize I'm being sarcastic). Apply a quality glue to the opening that dries clear, like Ambroid. Using tweezers carefully set your headlight in place. Make sure the light is straight. If you're satisfied, leave it alone for a few hours and then comback and apply a small amount of glue from the inside.

There are other methods that modelers use. Hopefully NightCrawler or some of the other kitbash artists will chime in with their methods.

Peace and Cheers!

[ShaunCN]

i wi***o move the headlight on my athearn snoot nose SD40-2 to the nose and not between the numberboards like on so many american units. I feel i can file flat the original headlight and sand it smooth with the body, but i'm not totaly confident on tring to put a nose headlight in, how would i do it? is there a headlight assembly i can buy? or could i remove one off a scrap body i have? still don't know the proper way to put one in. The headlight is not a big deal on the unit but it dose give it a distinctive look when it's in the right place. thanks for anyones help. [:)] ( i was originally goign to model a regular SD40 unit but it would require shortening of the nose and removal of the dynamic brake)

o if u care to know what i'm trying to model it is a CN SD40u
http://stewart.railfan.net/rail/cn/40u-6000a.jpg