Good evening guys.
I have a two-part request for help and advice with decals.
Number one, I have purchased Duluth Missabe & Iron Range locomotive decals on eBay. I have two SD-9 locomotives I purchased at a train show. They are N scale Kato's and run really great. They are Road number 111 and 117. I never liked how someone changed the 7 to a zero.
I want to change the zero back to a 7 to make it original again. The only decal experience I've ever had was the Revell models when I was a kid. I'm sure there's more to this skill applying them to our fine scale models we have today.
The second request. I cannot find any DMIR ore car decals. Is there any companies you can obtain them from? or do I have to get someone to make custom decals on a computer program. If I have to go that route, I would definitely appreciate that information as well.
I really want to change all my ore cars that are not Duluth Mesabi & Iron Range. I would like to test my skills repainting these cars and putting DMIR decals on as I have seen some of you do so well. Do I have to strip the old decals off these cars before I repaint them?
I would rather have a big Fleet of DMIR instead of all these mixed ore cars I made the mistake of purchasing.
Thanks for your help in advance.
Track Fiddler
On your first question - A bit more skill, but not much different.
We still use water slide decals, still do the same prep work of making sure it’s clean and smooth, still use decal set of various preference, and still seal the decals with clear overspray.
You may know some of these, but for everyones benefit, Major points of note are as follows -
Use Distilled water with the decals, not drinking water.
Have a glossy surface to apply the decals too.
Cut the decals close using a single edge razor blade, by pressing down on the decal, on plate glass. (NOT a glass kitchen plate!!!!!!)
Float the decals into place, as you do not wish to tear or rip them.
Once the decal solvent is in place, don’t touch the decal!
Once dry, pop any bubbles with a needle or sharp knife, and apply more solvent. Again, once solvent is on, no more touching.
Once the decal is fully dried and secured, clear overspray to seal it. Many are of the thought that a gloss overspray will help make the decal film invisible as it will make everything the same gloss level as the decal film. Then spray with whichever degree of flat clear you prefer. (I’ve not done much, but I’ve not noticed a difference, as all my decaled models were later weathered lightly.)
Some tools that help -
Smooth decal tweezers.
A blotting sponge.
Eye droppers.
Small, sharp scissors. (For trimming from the sheet itself.)
A small piece of plate glass.
Single edged razor blades and holder. (Trimming closer to the decal print edge.)
X-acto or similar knife.
Optional -
Music.
Drink of choice.
I don’t have much of an answer for the second question, other than "the Bay." Some to check are Shell Scale, Microscale, Circus City Decals, and a few others I know I missed.
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
ricktrains4824Optional - Music.
.
Not optional. I am putting decals on a BETHLEHEM AND MANTICORE boxcar right now, and Reel Big Fish is jamming loudly in the workshop. Sell Out from their 1996 album Turn The Radio Off is blasting away. I saw them live at the House Of Blues in Orlando last week with Bowling For Soup. Great show.
All the above advice from Rick is perfect.
I have never tried to apply decals to change numbers. I have no advice how to do it and get it to look right.
As far as painting over current artwork. The answer is sometimes. Some cars have very thin printing and you can paint right over it with no problem. I use a toothpick to check. If the toothpick cannot feel the edge of the artwork you are probably OK to paint over it.
I do not like stripping cars. I prefer to start with undecorated models.
I had a similar string of all-different ore cars in N scale. I loved them.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
A note on painting over paint vs. stripping; many models already have a very thick coat of paint on them, which is partially covering the molded on details. Additional paint serves to further cover up those details. My advice, like Kevin, is to strip the paint, then paint/decal the model. I believe you'll find that the molded on details really stand out when you paint a stripped model, provided you are careful to not make your paint too thick as well. I've repainted a stripped locomotive with a rattle can in thin coats and the molded on details really popped. It's a bit more work but worth it.
I miss Rail Graphics. You can find dry transfers or Microscale alphabet and number decals, it that is all you need.
There is an ALPS printer that can print white. Expensive to buy for just a few decals.
ALPS says they can produce custom decals. So does Kadee, and Microscale (high minimum number of decals)
You have to submit artwork using Illustrator or Corel Draw. If "they" do the artwork, it's around $50
Circus decals $40 for artwork, $40 for a 8x11" page
My experience with DIY inkjet decals is they aren't very opaque, meaning black lettering over orange paint, isn't very visible. YMMV
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
A pessimist sees a dark tunnel
An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel
A realist sees a frieght train
An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space
Maybe they found this one in a warehouse as it comes with Win98/XP drivers?
Free shipping
Replacing number is not too challenging. I did that when I bought duplicate cars. The one that needed replacing got addressed by using rubbing alcohol to remove the number. I then attached a sticker to replace the number. Apparently, replacing road numbers is quite common.
Quite often when changing a number, it is not as simple as removing the offending digit and replacing it with the one of your choice, because the decal is not the same size as the offending digit. You are left with the choice of forgetting, and living with issue or, changing the entire number. Then, there is the question of, does the number you want appear on the decal sheet or, will it have to be "constructed" from individual digits? I have found that simply changing one digit results in the decal being lighter or darker than the printed lettering in most instances.
Developing the ability to change or correct factory markings opens up a new aspect of the hobby--the ability to personalize your railroad. I number all of my equipment to replicate a prototype that I have photographed or have railroad paper documenting its passage through this area so, the manufacturer may as well not put a number on it anyway. I change Southern Pacific units to Cotton Belts and vice versa. Eight 8300 series SD40T-2s and none with a factory or duplicate number. There is a pair of GP-35s that had their too-thick in size factory applied road names scraped off (the best method of factory print removal for me) and replacement road name and numbers applied with decals.
Try decaling on "junker" before you tackle a model that matters. Decaling is not rocket science or, brain surgery, and it is reversible. Even now, when I'm not pleased with the results of my efforts, I have no heartburn about re-doing the job. Sound techniques have been presented by a number of posters so, you are armed with the information you need to go for it. Bottomline--too many modelers are afraid of decals. If more people embraced them, we would have a greater variety available in all scales.
NVSRRWhen did Alps start making printers again? They were the printer to have for making decals, last i knew, those printers were not produced since 2001
Thanks for all your replies guys. I have a lot of helpful information to work with here. As always, it is appreciated.