I have that problem gp18 does athearn sd 40 gears work?
Athearn part # 60024 I believe is what repairs this problem. Yes SD40 gears.
I presume you are talking a LifeLike Proto 2000, the early GPs usually having the cracked gear problem. That being the case, I will offer the following but do wait until someone confirms.
You can see by the Walthers wheelset (wheels plus gears) offering below (not always available) that the GP18s are included with the list of GP7s, etc. I'm fairly certain that the Geeps use the Athearn ATH60024 gears (re-use the wheels & 1/2 axles) that Athearn is showing as SD40-2 replacements.
https://www.walthers.com/replacement-geared-driver-assembly-diesel-wheelset-pkg-2-for-early-proto-2000-r-bl-fa-gp7-9-18-20-30-60-proto-1000-tm-f3
http://www.athearn.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=ATH60024
I have used the Athearn gears on a number of LL locos that I have procured & converted to DCC. Always count the gear teeth, though, to be sure you do not have another gear need. For example, my LL E6s (a less common problem but it can occur with the 6-axles diesels) required a different gear tooth count, see the next item for those. And I believe there are other variations such as non-centered gears and/or a 3rd tooth count for a few of the LL's. But you should be safe with the Athearn gears for your GP.
https://www.walthers.com/replacement-geared-diesel-wheelsets-fits-early-proto-2000-r-e6-7-8-9-pkg-3
When you cannot find what you want on Walthers or Athearn site the items are usually offerred by someone on EBay.
If you have not done this replacement before do pay attention to the assembly of the 1/2 axles & gears. I had a case where I thought I had used my NMRA gage to set the gauge close enough. But one loco had a derail issue at some turnouts. I found it is important to get the wheels "just so" in the NMRA gage such that the gauge is not set a bit too wide or a bit too narrow. So get the wheels precisely centered in the NMRA flange spots. I've also read that one can assemble the wheels so narrow that a short occurs (1/2 axles touching) within the gear, but I suspect that occurring would mean the wheels were set way too narrow vs. correct gauge.
P.S. - is it gage or gauge?
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
peahrensAnd I believe there are other variations such as non-centered gears and/or a 3rd tooth count for a few of the LL's. But you should be safe with the Athearn gears for your GP.
Good Info
Here's a photo:
Proto_gear-2 by Edmund, on Flickr
A few of the variants:
IMG_0128_fix by Edmund, on Flickr
Once you've made a few of the repairs it will become routine for you.
peahrensSo get the wheels precisely centered in the NMRA flange spots.
Also good advice!
Good Luck, Ed
I have also purchased ATH 40028 which are the whole wheel/gear assembly and are just drop in replacements. They come 6 per pack.
Ralph
Still need to check the gauge with an NMRA gauge. I guess it's slightly less work, but there's nothing wrong with the P2K wheels. Unless they have really high run time and are worn, then I'd get the complete wheel and axle sets.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.