MisterBeasley As I recall, I needed a special long shank coupler for the front of an Athearn F7 to clear the pilot. Also remember that these engines may have an electrically hot frame, so be careful of metal couplers and make sure they are insulated from the frame. I ground down the original boxes and installed Kadee plastic draft gear boxes to make sure the couplers were isolated.
As I recall, I needed a special long shank coupler for the front of an Athearn F7 to clear the pilot. Also remember that these engines may have an electrically hot frame, so be careful of metal couplers and make sure they are insulated from the frame.
I ground down the original boxes and installed Kadee plastic draft gear boxes to make sure the couplers were isolated.
That would be the best solution for Athearn BB engines. A 28 series with a plastic shank will be needed due to the hot frame.
I recommand using the KD 146 long shank coupler in the 252 small snap together gear box.
https://www.kadee.com/ho-scale-couplers-c-272_230_231/252-small-snaptogether-gearbox-ho-p-335.htm
https://www.kadee.com/ho-scale-couplers-c-272_230_231/146-whisker-metal-couplers-long-centerset-p-296.htm
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
This is the best wayto put Kadee couplers on it:
http://www.americanlimitedmodels.com/ho-athearn-f-unit-close-coupling-adapter-kit-black/
Or with diapgragms:
http://www.americanlimitedmodels.com/ho-athearn-f-unit-connection-kit-black/
And this will couple the unit to another unit in a closer, more correct position.
Sheldon
I was given a non-running (Athearn, I believe, with only molded-in details,etc) F7 in UP colors, and I have just finished converting it into a BAR F3 ( using modelers license, of course). it's finished except for couplers. It looks to me that there is a projection cast on the frame at the front and back that appears to take a small clip the holds the coupler in place; I'm having difficulty actually getting the clip on with a Kadee coupler ( which it came with); my question is, is there a standard way to force the clip on? and is there an acceptable, common alternative - i.e., drill and tap a hole for a screw installed coupler? Any suggestions would be welcome.