HELP! I've got DCC and I can't use it! (Atlas H16-44 disassembly question)

[bpickering]

I've got a VERY nicely detailed Atlas Master Series H16-44. I've tried it out on DC, and it runs VERY nicely.

However, upon reading its notes (I can't really call a sheet of paper or two a "manual", sorry), I see that in order to use it in DCC mode, I need to switch a jumper. In addition, I'm considering upgrading my locos to sound, and want to get a feeling for the space that can be made inside for a speaker.

For that, though, I need to get the hood off, and after about twenty minutes of trying last night, I'm stymied. I'm afraid of breaking the darn thing!

What I've got so far- fuel tank comes of relatively easily, revealing a screw. Goodie. Looking at the exploded view, though, there is one more obvious screw. After some >worried< prying (partly worried, because I actually left some small scratches... darn!), I was able to get the air reservoir off, revealing the second screw. That's it, right?

Nope. Still seems to be attached at the front (cab) end. I tried removing the front coupler (the only other screw I could see in the exploded view), and it didn't seem to make any difference. Next try- the view appears to show the short hood, cab, and long hood are separate parts. I'm able to remove the cab (revealing cute interior details of engineer & fireman), but it still doesn't free the long hood.

I've reassembled it for now, since I'm afraid of breaking this sweet little engine. I was wondering if anyone else has this (or a similar) unit, or other Atlas locos. It's odd- my Atlas C30-7 came apart easily (and looks to have room for two speakers, albeit little ones, with little difficulty).

(P.S. I've got similar problems with my Bachmann Spectrum Doodlebug... except in this case, can't seem to find much in the way of screws at all. Similar advice is appreciated!)

Brian Pickering

[cspmo]

If it's like other Atlas Their are no screws holding on the body, just four latches on the inside the shell that hooks on the weight. It's a pain in the a** to get off, unfortunately I have only got one off accidentally,(C 40-8) so I can't help much.

PS did you remove the coupler pockets on both ends?

[nfmisso]

Brian;

Go to Atlas's Forum, and search for the answer, it has been addressed there.
http://forum.atlasrr.com/forum/

[bpickering]

Looks like CSPMO wins the prize; at least, the following post on the Atlas forum sounds appropriate:
http://forum.atlasrr.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11080&SearchTerms=h16-44,master
I'll try after I pull myself away from the computer. [:)] Looks like I'm not the only person having this problem, esp. from the last posting.

QUOTE: Originally posted by cspmo

If it's like other Atlas Their are no screws holding on the body, just four latches on the inside the shell that hooks on the weight. It's a pain in the a** to get off, unfortunately I have only got one off accidentally,(C 40-8) so I can't help much.

PS did you remove the coupler pockets on both ends?

As noted in my post, I tried the front-end only. The back end didn't seem to important, since the back end was the one I already had fully-clear of the frame... [:p]

Now, any word on the Doodlebug? I'll see if Bachmann has any forums like the Atlas one, I guess.

Thanks for the notes,

Brian

[Don Gibson]

BRIAN:

What you need is a good L.H.S.

Retro-fitting engines with speakers will be expensive - see Tony's Train Exchange
A $100 Atlas engine with Soundtraxx DCC sound module istalled may cost you an additional $300. - $400,. A factory installed QSI unit nearly half - and will run on both DC & DCC.is the SOUNDTRAXX unit worth the difference? - If you're a connoseur.

[bpickering]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Don Gibson
What you need is a good L.H.S.

Oh, I've got two- The Inside Gateway, and Eastside Trains. I even work (right now, at least) only about a mile away from the former. I even bought the Doodlebug at T.I.G.

I've just erased a couple of paragraphs of whining about how easy it is to get time to go over there, despite the, shall we say, almost "teasing" closeness. Let's just say it's a whole heck of a lot easier asking the forums for help.

In addition, I'm not comfortable constantly going in to any hobby store and asking them for assistance on hardware I didn't buy there. I was just in to T.I.G. last month asking about my DOA Veranda Turbine... don't like rubbing their noses in the fact that I'm not particularly monogamous. [:D]

Brian Pickering

[Don Gibson]

BRIAN:

Any LHS worth it's salt will welcome customers with questions and give free help, Sounded like your not a customer.

RE:Lionel 'Veranda Turbine'.

You'll need to go your purchasing source, or enlist 'Factory Service'. I understand someone may have bought their parts and offering service, but it would be unusual ot them to offer umder Warranty. I'd get it fiexed.
'

[bpickering]

Well, well, well!

After some carefull pushing, poking, etc., I finally got this shell off. Post mortem suggests that the CA the previous owner had used to install the front grab-irons seeped just enough inside the shell to glue the front end of the shell to the frame. Didn't need to remove the fuel tanks, couplers, or any screws after all.

Should be able to make the jumper change to take this from DC to DCC fairly easily now. That makes four DCC-equipped locos.

NOW... we get to the nitty-gritty. I'm looking at the interior space w/ consideration for adding Soundtrax DSX. Of course, it's a hood unit, so they will likely have to be fairly narrow speakers, likely ovals. I can see what is probably enough space for two 0.56" or 0.625" -wide oval spearkers (Loys Toys part numbers TU112 or TU113, respectively). I've got some TU112s on-hand, and they will easily fit in. My calipers says 23/32" wide, so I suspect the TU113s will fit as well (I actually have some on the way, partly suspecting they would work, partly as pieces to have around to try...).

However. The H16-44 doesn't have any exhaust/radiator fans in a nice convenient location to let out the sound (spare space is in the center, not at the rear under the radiator fan). There are, however, mesh areas cast on the sides just aft of the cab- probably air intakes. (see http://usloki.tripod.com/images/h1644/h1644up1.gif for how I plan on painting this loco.)

I've found a number of materials on the Walthers site that would likely work well. Need to make measurements to determine WHICH type of mesh will work, but Micron Art appears to have some very similar material. That's step one- WHAT.

Now, for step two- HOW? I've gone through Kalmbach's "How to Detail Diesel Locomotives", "Diesel Detailing Projects", Railmodel Journal's "Tuning & Upgrading Athearn Locomotives", and Googled around for a while looking for suggestions as to how attach mesh. While I could certainly drill and file out the openings, that leaves me wondering how to attach the mesh inside the opening.

Just gluing it to the back will result in the same problem as just gluing a window inside the cab- the prototype isn't inset, and so neither should the mesh.
I could cut a little wide/high, trim the corners, then fold in and glue that. Not sure if I'm that comfortable with my skill, yet. :-)

Other suggestions? Useful links? Suggestions for alternative reading material? I'm hoping to hit my LHS on the way home tomorrow for additional advice, but any comments prior to that would be appreciated.

Brian Pickering