Hi everyone,
I was unpacking some of my HO scale equipment and came accross my Bachmann GE 70 ton switcher. The loco looks great but runs very poorly. It takes a while to start moveing (my Life-Like SW7 starts emidiently, while the 70tonner takes alot of power. It also produces a wierd electrical smell similar to old slot car sets, could this be something melting? When it runs it is the opposite of smooth. Once it is moving it jerks around alot and makes alot noise.
So I need help fixing this. If anyone has any ideas of what's causing the problems, please say so below!
I will mention I know the issue is not electrical pickup from the wheels, because the headlight works very well, turning on well before the engine accually starts moving, and quickly brightens.
I think there is a possiblity that the gears are the issue. Could anyone confirm if this is likely? Also where could I get replacement gears?
Thanks in advance to everyone for their help!
Regards, Isaac
I model my railroad and you model yours! I model my way and you model yours!
Also here's an image of the loco in question to help you guys!
That drive line is the same as the eariler 44t. Clean the motors and gears and such of all grease and oil. Re lube properly. These motor gear setups are higly sensitive to over lubricating. It gets all over the motor and especially the commutator. That cause exactly what you describe.
I rebuilt my early 44t with newer 5 pole motors. The over greased ones from china. Melted two of them before i figured out the lube problem. Once i completely cleaned and relubed it has run fine since.
Wolfie
A pessimist sees a dark tunnel
An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel
A realist sees a frieght train
An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space
About the same setup as the two motor 44 ton.
I now have the single motor 70 ton which came with DCC on board. I stripped the electronics and upper weight and converted it to LokSound. Great runner.
I use to have the two motor 44 ton version. It ran fine until it cracked a gear. I even converted it to DCC.
I now have the single motor 44 ton.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Well thanks for the help so far. I'm not sure if it's over lubicating, I can't see any grease or oil on the gears or motor. I also don't think it's a cracked gear, because I don't see one. I think I'll take the loco apart further in a bit and have a better look. Could anyone tell me what I would need to look for to find over lubrication?
Keep the advice coming!
Hi,
I've worked with this motor (and a lot of other old HO power) before, and if its over lubricated you will certainly see it. In any case, I would take the motor apart, clean each piece, put back together and put a drop of oil at the spots where movement takes place.
Unless the brushes are screwed up or there is a winding problem (very unusual), that should work fine.
That said, there is a more likely place that cause your problems - and that is dirty wheels (or pickups that bring juice from the wheels to the motor) or dirty track.
Take a rag, wrap it around your finger, dip it in alcohol and wipe the track first. If you get a black line on your finger, the track is dirty.
Then - while there are better ways to do this - wipe the alcohol rag on the wheel surfaces. Often you can see black gunk, which in my experience was pretty common.
Like all mechanical problems, it is usually best to check the most common problem sources first, before getting in deeper.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
SPSOT fan Well thanks for the help so far. I'm not sure if it's over lubicating, I can't see any grease or oil on the gears or motor. I also don't think it's a cracked gear, because I don't see one. I think I'll take the loco apart further in a bit and have a better look. Could anyone tell me what I would need to look for to find over lubrication? Keep the advice coming!
if you are not seeing any grease or signs of oil. That could be the problem as well. No grease or oil causes a slow run and such as the gears and armature bind. Same as old still grease. I would stick with the cleaning and fresh relube. If the problem persists, we will have to look deeper
It should be easy to pull the motors. I did on my two motor 44 ton.
There is a two motor on ebay that is shown with the shell off on the layout. Looks like the seller has it running. The headlight is lit.
Below is what you should see with a very light coating of oil on the worm where it drives the worm gear.
https://tinyurl.com/y47887rc
About the same as what my two motor 44 ton had.
I hope you get back with us.
Bachmann does not use different colored wires.
Edit.
If it cracks a gear, you can send it back with a check and they will send a replacement. Look at the Bachmann forum site for replacements but call first.
My two motor 44 ton cracked a gear. They sent me a single motor 44 ton DCC ready. You might not get the same shell.
Well folks a trip to the LHS reveled that the issue was a bad motor. I put one on order that will cost about $13 when it arrives. According the guys their that is what caused the smell. I think both motors may be bad, but whatever, it can run with one if I need it too.
Thanks for everyone's help!
They dont ruqn well on one. Never could figure out why. I didnt give a thought to a weak solder connection or bad winding insulation. Good to know you found the issue. And you know what to look for before you run the new one so you dont damage it
I have a lot of experience with the small Bachmann GEs. IMO, you'll be happiest if you just swap the old shell onto one of the newer single-motor drive chassis. They swap easily and you'll find the newer chassis far better in running characteristics - or it will be once you also pitch the B-mann decoder, which was pretty cranky on all mine, with someth basic and good.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
mlehman I have a lot of experience with the small Bachmann GEs. IMO, you'll be happiest if you just swap the old shell onto one of the newer single-motor drive chassis. They swap easily and you'll find the newer chassis far better in running characteristics - or it will be once you also pitch the B-mann decoder, which was pretty cranky on all mine, with someth basic and good.
Maybe ten years ago My two motor cracked a gear.
With a check I sent it back to Bachmann and got a single motor DCC ready. Stripped it out.
Removed all the caps on the motor. Both lights. Made a styrene board and mounted a LokSound v3.5 Micro decoder and speaker. Removed upper weight and made my own weights with metal that melts at boiling point of water.
Got the idea from a fellow in So, Africa.
Runs quite well. Sorry. Photo Bucket went away. I will not go back. Still have the photos.
I think RMC or MR had an article about seven or eight years ago about this. I have the magazine somewhere.