Locomotive Takes a Tumble and I Need Help!

[Eastrail11]

Hello all the wonderful people on the fourm!

I recently had the heart stopping experience of having a locomotive fall about 8ft from a storage shelf to the floor. 

I heard a loud bang, and originally I tought it was a book from the sound, but it was my Walthers SD45 faling flat on its wheel side of its box. I immediately took it out of the box to investigate the damage, and from what I can see, there is only "minor" damage. From a first glance, some handrails, steps, and a radiator fan cover fell off.

Upon further inspection, I also noticed the springs for the mchenry scale knuckle couplers had fallen off. Amazingly, I was able to find both springs. 

Now for my questions: 

1. For the couplers, it is worth trying to reinstall the spring to its correct location, or should I just buy new couplers and repace them?

2. How do I fix the fan? I have tried glueing it, but it seems to never want stay attached. I will update this part when it stays overnight, and if it still doesn't want to glue, I'm out of ideas. 

3. The handrails. The handrails have a clean cut from the locomotive, as if someone took a knife and just cut them. I tried glueing, but all I managed was to crookedy get one part glue on and smudge the paint. 

4. The steps are bent, with the edge of the plow being broken. I tried bending it back into place, but I feel like I am just making it worse. 

I know someone who might be able to help me with the steps, but I will not be able to see him for atleast 3 weeks. 

Also miraculously, all the internal componants are fine under a quick inspection. I put it on a test track and ran it, tested sounds and lights, and everything seems to be working. 

I am still relatively new to the fixing aspect of modeling, since I have never had to fix a model before. (unfortunaty it finaly happened, and to my favorite model!)

I can provide pictures if requested. 

~Eastrail

[MisterBeasley]

I would replace the couplers with Kadees.

What glue are you using?  Are these parts press fit or held with tabs that might have come off?  I usually use CA for small difficult parts.

[Eastrail11]

MisterBeasley

What glue are you using?  Are these parts press fit or held with tabs that might have come off?  I usually use CA for small difficult parts.

 

The glue I'm using is generic plastic glue (Testors iquid cement), which I also use for making buildings. I do not believe they are press fit because there is a small lip around the edge of the interrior of the engine, which I assumed is where it was glued down. 

What Kadees would you recommend?

Forgive my ignorance, but what is CA? 

[York1]

Eastrail11

Forgive my ignorance, but what is CA? 

 

It's cyanoacrylate, which is usually called super glue. Be aware that there are different varieties of ca, some which dry immediately, some take a few seconds, etc.  It will usually work when plastic cement won't, but it's unforgiving.  Make sure you have something exactly where you want it when you touch the parts together.

[Eastrail11]

York1

 

It's cyanoacrylate, which is usually called super glue. Be aware that there are different varieties of ca, some which dry immediately, some take a few seconds, etc.  It will usually work when plastic cement won't, but it's unforgiving.  Make sure you have something exactly where you want it when you touch the parts together.

 

Thanks, I may need to buy some if the plastic cement does not hold. 

[PC101]

with CA, don't glue your fingers to the grill.

If your shelfs are wood or metal or maybe you do not want to do this with the selfs but, go to local store that sells minnow netting, the netting used to catch small fish. Fasten it securely to the front of the self the boxes are on, then something on the above self to catch and hold the netting. Cup hooks come to mind. Reach up unhook the netting remove the item, rehook the netting and no more bumps in the night.  

[mbinsewi]

OOOPS!  I've had that!  You might want to call Walthers, and see what parts you can get.  They don't have a specific "parts" dept. on their web site, as all of their stuff is assembled "elsewhere".

For the couplers, you can take them off the loco and reinstall the springs.  I've done it quite a few times with Kadee's, or, you can replace.  It's up to you. 

Kadee's web site will have a replacement for the Walthers, I'm not sure if you have the Trainline, Mainline, or Proto loco, or if it makes a difference.

https://www.kadee.com/

The fan, just glue the cover back on with the CA, AKA Super glue, as John mentioned.  Use VERY sparingly, and apply it with a pointed tooth pick, or a piece of wire, so you don't smear it all over.

If the handrails sheared off, you'll have to get a new set.  Check with Walthers on those, and see what others might fit.  You might have to drill out the tiny holes that the rails press fit into.

The steps and plow, I don't know what Walthers uses.  There are many replacement steps and plows from other detail manufacturers that might/will work.  Wait for your "step guy" if he seems to know about such things, as detail parts.

If this was my loco, I would probably use after market parts from other suppliers, but that would be a long involved "how-to" that you could understand, to replace these parts.

Kind of a good thing, at least now you will get familar locomotive repair.  If your going to run'em, learn how to fix'em.  

Always remember, Google is a great "tool" to have in your tool box.  Tons of videos and "how-to" resources are out there.

Good luck!

Mike.

 

[Eastrail11]

PC101

with CA, don't glue your fingers to the grill.

If your shelfs are wood or metal or maybe you do not want to do this with the selfs but, go to local store that sells minnow netting, the netting used to catch small fish. Fasten it securely to the front of the self the boxes are on, then something on the above self to catch and hold the netting. Cup hooks come to mind. Reach up unhook the netting remove the item, rehook the netting and no more bumps in the night.  

 

I have a door that closed over, since they are stored in a cabinet, but I had kept the door open because I was looking for a book. With the *thunk* sound, I originally thought it was a book that fell. 

[doctorwayne]

Eastrail11

1. For the couplers, it is worth trying to reinstall the spring to its correct location, or should I just buy new couplers and repace them?

The springs are easy to reinstall, and the McHenrys with coil knuckle springs work fine with Kadees. 

Eastrail11

2. How do I fix the fan? I have tried glueing it, but it seems to never want stay attached. I will update this part when it stays overnight, and if it still doesn't want to glue, I'm out of ideas.

I'm not familiar with that model, but it may have a key (nub or slot) on it which needs to be aligned with an appropriate matching slot or nub.  Testor's liquid cement should work if the parts are styrene, but if there's any paint on the mating surfaces, it should be scraped-off to ensure a positive bond.
If one of the parts is made of engineering plastic, there are few glues which will work well.  If the grill mates with its mounting area (fits together, rather than simply sitting atop), ca may keep it in place. 
For neatest results using ca, fit the part in place, then use an appropriately-sized tool to apply the glue to only the mating surfaces - it will be drawn into the joint.  The tip of an X-Acto #11 blade is useful in such situations as an applicator for the ca.

Eastrail11

3. The handrails. The handrails have a clean cut from the locomotive, as if someone took a knife and just cut them. I tried glueing, but all I managed was to crookedy get one part glue on and smudge the paint.

Handrails on most current diesels are made from some form of engineering plastic, which does not respond well to most glues and cements.  There are glues which will work, but most are rather expensive.
Photos of the damage would be helpful.  In many cases, I re-use the plastic handrail stanchions, but drill them out appropriately, then remove the handrails and replace them with ones formed by wire.  Simply thread the stanchions onto the wire handrails, then re-install
This Atlas RS-1 uses its stock stanchions, but all of the actual handrails were formed from .015" piano wire... 

This retains the flexibility of the Delrin stanchions, and the wire handrails readily spring back into their proper alignment.

Eastrail11

4. The steps are bent, with the edge of the plow being broken. I tried bending it back into place, but I feel like I am just making it worse.

You may be able to carefully push the steps back into alignment, but since they're likely styrene, it's also possible to use sheet or strip styrene from Evergreen to replace the damaged areas.  For that, the Testors cement will work very well.
As for the plow, if you can't repair it, Details West have several suitable replacements from which to choose.

Wayne

[G Paine]

Eastrail11

2. How do I fix the fan? I have tried glueing it, but it seems to never want stay attached. I will update this part when it stays overnight, and if it still doesn't want to glue, I'm out of ideas.
3. The handrails. The handrails have a clean cut from the locomotive, as if someone took a knife and just cut them. I tried glueing, but all I managed was to crookedy get one part glue on and smudge the paint.
4. The steps are bent, with the edge of the plow being broken. I tried bending it back into place, but I feel like I am just making it worse.

If you have the original paperwork that came with the locomotive, there may be an exploded diagram with part numbers.

For the parts that need replacement contact Walthers Customer Service at the phone number listed

https://www.walthers.com/contact-us

 

[Southgate]

Dr Wayne; I've thought of drilling out those stansions and threading steel rail through them, but was reluctant to try, fearing the drill bit will wander off center and breach out the side of the hole.  Is there a trick to know before starting, or is it easier than I'm thinking? Dan

[Harrison]

If you are satisfied with the performance of the couplers, put the spring back in. Use a drop of glue on one end, so when it comes out, it won't fly into the great beyond. I don't know how you found the springs, you must have a really clean floor! I dropped a Walthers GP9 from about 4 ft, and it cracked a gearbox cover. The loco is now alive and running Rouses Point-Montreal transfers. Good luck on your loco.

[Eastrail11]

Good morning!

This morning I went to check on the locomotive, and the fan seems to have been gued back into place. The eaiser part of the handrail to reglue also seems to be working. 

Unfortuantly not everything was perfect. I tried reglueing the plow, but it just fell off this morning. 

What kadee type would be recommended?

[Eastrail11]

G Paine

 

 

Eastrail11

2. How do I fix the fan? I have tried glueing it, but it seems to never want stay attached. I will update this part when it stays overnight, and if it still doesn't want to glue, I'm out of ideas.
3. The handrails. The handrails have a clean cut from the locomotive, as if someone took a knife and just cut them. I tried glueing, but all I managed was to crookedy get one part glue on and smudge the paint.
4. The steps are bent, with the edge of the plow being broken. I tried bending it back into place, but I feel like I am just making it worse.

 

 

If you have the original paperwork that came with the locomotive, there may be an exploded diagram with part numbers.

For the parts that need replacement contact Walthers Customer Service at the phone number listed

https://www.walthers.com/contact-us

 

I do have the original paperwork with the explode model, but the model is a about 3ish years old, so I am not sure if they will have the parts. Will they replace them for free or at a cost? 

[BigDaddy]

Eastrail11

Will they replace them for free or at a cost?

Your optimism brings a smile to my face.

[Eastrail11]

Harrison

If you are satisfied with the performance of the couplers, put the spring back in. Use a drop of glue on one end, so when it comes out, it won't fly into the great beyond.

Thanks, this at least can be a temporary solution if I can manage to fit the tiny springs back into place. If the springs stay, then I won't replace them with kadees. 

I have already tried to put them back into place, but it doesn't help that they are quite springy 

Harrison

I don't know how you found the springs, you must have a really clean floor! Good luck on your loco

The loco was in the box when it fell, so everything was inside the box. If just the locomotive fell 8ft, I would have larger problems than coupler springs. Thanks. 

[Eastrail11]

BigDaddy

 

Eastrail11

Will they replace them for free or at a cost?

 

 

Your optimism brings a smile to my face.

 

 

I have never had to replace something before, so I am still "new" to this. 

I have read here that some companies do have free replacements of broken parts. 

[BigDaddy]

It could happen, but in this case there was collusion between Sir Isaac Newton and the floor.

[mbinsewi]

You never know with Walthers.  Did you buy it from them?  from a hobby shop? or from an auction site?  This must be a Proto 2000 ?

It doesn't hurt to call Walthers and ask, and to see if they have any parts.

Mike.

[Eastrail11]

mbinsewi

You never know with Walthers.  Did you buy it from them?  from a hobby shop? or from an auction site?  This must be a Proto 2000 ?

It doesn't hurt to call Walthers and ask, and to see if they have any parts.

Mike.

 

I bought the model from MB Klein (ModelTrainStuff)

Yes it is Proto 2000

I will call them when I get home later today. 

[Eastrail11]

BigDaddy

It could happen, but in this case there was collusion between Sir Isaac Newton and the floor.

 

I do have to credit Walthers on their boxes for holding locos, I was  personally expecting a lot more damage. 

Now, I will not test to see how other company's boxes hold up to the drop, so I can't compair it fairly. 

[richhotrain]

What's the roadname? You may need to pick a new one up on eBay. I'd be shocked if Walthers has any replacement parts. Those days are long gone.

Rich

[Eastrail11]

ATSF #1835

[richhotrain]

Eastrail11

ATSF #1835 

There is a new one on eBay for $129.99. You could use the shell and re-sell the chassis.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/WALTHERS-PROTO-HO-Santa-Fe-SD45-ATSF-1843-920-48067-DCC-Ready/222725516270?epid=11016507865&hash=item33db79abee:g:TUYAAOSwvD5aFzz2

Rich

[mbinsewi]

That's not a bad idea, Rich.  Just the chassis usually go for around $50 to 60.  That would recoop some of the cost.

Sometimes, decent locos, such P2K's, Genesis, Kato, Atlas, etc., sold as damaged or for parts, with a good chassis can go for more.

I'm always watching sales like that, for a good chassis.  I'm not fussy about the shell.

Mike.

[doctorwayne]

Southgate

Dr Wayne; I've thought of drilling out those stansions and threading steel rail through them, but was reluctant to try, fearing the drill bit will wander off center and breach out the side of the hole.  Is there a trick to know before starting, or is it easier than I'm thinking? Dan

 

I use the point of a draughting compass or dividers to "punch" a dimple for starting the drill bit.  It helps if the cuts removing the handrail portions are clean and true, and, naturally, use a pin vise, rather than a motorised tool, to do the drilling.  I often start with a #79 bit, then enlarge the holes using a bit sized to match the wire used to create the new handrails.
The only somewhat tricky part of doing the RS-1 was the end handrails, with the angled uprights....

 

 

Once you've drilled-out all of the stanchions and threaded them onto the railings, space them out as necessary, then carefully press the bottom ends into their respective holes in the side of the walkways, aligning the top end of each - use a small square, if necessary.
Once everything is straight and neat, use the X-Acto blade, as I mentioned earlier, to apply a small amount of ca to each stanchion's base where it enters the bodyshell, and also to each side of each stanchion where the railing passes through - doing both sides draws the cement into the joint.  Use a rag or tissue to remove any excess glue before it hardens.
The ca will stick to the styrene bodyshell and to the metal handrails, but it will not adhere (at least in a reliable fashion) to the enginering plastic of the stanchions. However, by ensuring that it's drawn into the joints, it will create a facsimile of an "interference fit", which will stand-up well to reasonable handling.

Wayne

[Eastrail11]

Update: 

So after 24 hours, the glue is holding, so I was able to fix the fan. Unfortunatly the plow still seems to have trouble beening glued on, so I may need to remove some paint. 

I do not think the damage is so severe that I would have to have to buy a new shell. The damage to the steps would only be noticable if you pay attention to the loco, and when it is moving at 40 scale mph, it is nearly imossible to notice the damage. 

 

I am confused what you mean about fixing the handrail? 

[doctorwayne]

Eastrail11

...I am confused what you mean about fixing the handrail?

If you're referring to my most recent post, it's in response to Dan's query about repairing damaged handrails.

You also indicated that the handrails on your flying diesel were in some way severed, but without a picture or a more complete explanation, it's difficult for me to know if the procedure outlined for Dan would be of use on your locomotive.  If the stanchions (uprights) are broken, the repair which I suggested won't be of use.

Wayne

[Eastrail11]

doctorwayne

 

 

Eastrail11

...I am confused what you mean about fixing the handrail?

 

 

If you're referring to my most recent post, it's in response to Dan's query about repairing damaged handrails.

You also indicated that the handrails on your flying diesel were in some way severed, but without a picture or a more complete explanation, it's difficult for me to know if the procedure outlined for Dan would be of use on your locomotive.  If the stanchions (uprights) are broken, the repair which I suggested won't be of use.

Wayne

 

I guess I should have been more clean, the stanchions broke from the carbody. Normally, the uprights have a needle/pin which fits into a hole into the carbody, but the needles/pins snapped. 

Sorry about the confusion, I didn't know the name for them.