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Atlas HO GP38

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  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Middle Tennessee
  • 42 posts
Atlas HO GP38
Posted by rlbeetle on Saturday, January 1, 2005 9:11 PM
I am new to the forum and fairly new to the hobby. I have a couple of Atlas HO GP38's with the dual-mode DCC decoders. I am running them on DC right now. One of them quit running today. I am getting voltage to the motor, I checked it on the buss bars on the motor. This makes me think the motor is bad. I have not checked resistance on the motor yet, what kind of resistance reading should I expect?

Thanks for you help and this forum. I have learned a lot just by reading the forum.
  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Conemaugh Division
  • 389 posts
Posted by Pennsy58 on Sunday, January 2, 2005 1:45 AM
Although doubtful, You may want to check to see if the pin may have worked loose on the board that has it set to DC control.
  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Middle Tennessee
  • 42 posts
Posted by rlbeetle on Sunday, January 2, 2005 7:19 AM
I checked that and it was OK. I am getting track voltage to the board and on the motor itself.

Thanks
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, January 2, 2005 7:52 AM
To eliminate the motor as the problem,remove the motor wires from the decoder and run power straight to the motor.There may be something on the decoder with an open circuit.You can do this with alligator clips or strips of wire.It is very rare for an Atlas motor to go bad.Dan
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Sierra Vista, Arizona
  • 13,757 posts
Posted by cacole on Sunday, January 2, 2005 8:08 AM
I would suspect the decoder has gone bad rather than the motor. As suggested by dancarm, bypass the decoder and see if the locomotive runs. If it does, you need to contact Atlas about a replacement decoder, which should be under warranty.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: US
  • 665 posts
Posted by darth9x9 on Sunday, January 2, 2005 8:31 AM
Just for giggles, you may want to swap the decoder of the defective unit with one from a good unit. This is let you know immediately where the problem lies.

As a side note, this is only the second time I have heard of a problem with an Atlas HO GP38. The other being a problem I had with a decoder board as somehow it managed to burn a hole in the two IC chips yet it still ran in DC mode! Atlas replaced the decoder at no charge. You may want to give them a call tomorrow.

Bill Carl (modeling Chessie and predecessors from 1973-1983)
Member of Four County Society of Model Engineers
NCE DCC Master
Visit the FCSME at www.FCSME.org
Modular railroading at its best!
If it has an X in it, it sucks! And yes, I just had my modeler's license renewed last week!

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Middle Tennessee
  • 42 posts
Posted by rlbeetle on Sunday, January 2, 2005 8:36 AM
Thanks, that's a good idea. I will try that this afternoon. I already have alligator clips rigged on a set of leads where I was checking out some other loco's for a friend. That's what got me interested in the hobby, checking out a friend's trains.

But would I be getting track voltage (14 vdc at full throttle) on the motor leads if the decorder was bad?
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Sierra Vista, Arizona
  • 13,757 posts
Posted by cacole on Sunday, January 2, 2005 8:40 AM
Yes, it's possible that you could get 14 Volts DC but with too low an Amperage to turn the motor. Another thing to check before you do burn up the motor is to turn one of the flywheels by hand and insure that the mechanism has not locked up for some reason.

Although a very rare occurrence, you may indeed have a bad motor. In that case, I would definitely contact Atlas and get it replaced by them with a totally different engine under their warranty program.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: US
  • 665 posts
Posted by darth9x9 on Sunday, January 2, 2005 8:44 AM
Charles make a good point. You might have a piece of ballast or some other debris that may have worked its way into the gears of a truck preventing the gears from turning. It is unlikely but certainly possible.

BC

Bill Carl (modeling Chessie and predecessors from 1973-1983)
Member of Four County Society of Model Engineers
NCE DCC Master
Visit the FCSME at www.FCSME.org
Modular railroading at its best!
If it has an X in it, it sucks! And yes, I just had my modeler's license renewed last week!

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Middle Tennessee
  • 42 posts
Posted by rlbeetle on Sunday, January 2, 2005 2:03 PM
I had already checked to be sure the drive train was not locked up, but it did feel tight. I hooked the motor up directly isolated from the decorder. It did not run, I spun the flywheel and the motor started running but not near full speed. I will look at the gears next.

On another problem, what type grease is recomended for the gear box? I am working on one for someone else and they had sprayed WD-40 in the gearbox. Now it is all over the bottom of the loco. I am in the process of cleaning it up but need to know what type grease to put back.

Again, thanks for all the help. This is a great board.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, January 2, 2005 3:25 PM
Definately check the gears for a crack or debris.If you know how,pop off the worm covers and remove the worm and shaft and try the motor again.If it runs you have a bind in the mechanism. Also check for a loose brush or cap on the motor.As for the other locomotive,GET THE WD40 OUT OF THE GEARBOX.It will eventually eat the plastic.For lube I use Labelle grease and oil.Make sure they are plastic compatible and use sparingly.Hope this helps,Dan
  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Middle Tennessee
  • 42 posts
Posted by rlbeetle on Sunday, January 2, 2005 8:43 PM
Thanks, I will inspect the gears. I also thought about uncoupling the gearboxes from the motor (if it easy) and try it.

You are right about the WD40. And it is all over the underneath of the train. I guess it is all over his track also.

Thanks
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, January 3, 2005 6:59 PM
No problem.Welcome to the forum and the hobby.Dan
  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Middle Tennessee
  • 42 posts
Posted by rlbeetle on Tuesday, January 4, 2005 9:32 PM
Thanks for the welcome, this is one of the most active forums I have ever been involved with.

Turns out it was the motor. I took it out and hooked it up to the controller and it does not run. When I spin it, at one spot in the rotation I can feel the magnetic field kick in for a second. When I check the resistance it reads open, when I rotate it and hit the spot it will read resistance for a second. I am talking with Atlas now.
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Weymouth, Ma.
  • 5,199 posts
Posted by bogp40 on Tuesday, January 4, 2005 9:46 PM
The Labelle grease that dancarm mentions is the 106 w/ teflon. You may have to disassemble the trucks to clean out all the WD-40, other than dishwashing detergent and a toothbrush, I don't know of any other solvent that won't harm the plastic. Good luck on the GP-38.
Bob K.

Modeling B&O- Chessie  Bob K.  www.ssmrc.org

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