Question letter one: I have walthers decal setting solution. Is there something stronger and better? Especially for rougher surfaces?
Question number B: I have city classic modular pieces. I got the concrete painted. put a mortar tone on the brick area. Started working on dry brush paint the brick. Not going well. Having a hard time getting the paint to cover the bricks. and a slight bit more paint ends up filling the mortar lines. Is there a better way to get the mortar line affect using a different method?
Thanks
wolfie
A pessimist sees a dark tunnel
An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel
A realist sees a frieght train
An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space
For #1: YES! There is Daco brand "Strong" Solution.
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It is very hard to find in the United States. I mail order it from Brick & Mortar hobby shops in Germany.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
On the mortar lines, I would paint the brick color first, then use a thinned mortar color, and wipe off the brick "faces" while still wet.
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
NVSRRQuestion number B: I have city classic modular pieces. I got the concrete painted. put a mortar tone on the brick area. Started working on dry brush paint the brick. Not going well. Having a hard time getting the paint to cover the bricks. and a slight bit more paint ends up filling the mortar lines. Is there a better way to get the mortar line affect using a different method?
There was a recent thread on this topic:
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/p/274770/3131716.aspx#3131716
One of the posters suggested using artist's oil pencils to colour the brick. That would seem to address the issue of the brick colour filling up the mortar joints, although I have never done it myself.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I recently ruined a decal after using Solvaset. The stuff works great, but you cannot successfully move it after it is applied. The instructions tell you that. I read them, and yet did not pay heed. FYI.............
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
NVSRRI have walthers decal setting solution. Is there something stronger and better? Especially for rougher surfaces?
Solvaset is pretty strong, in the sense of being a light solvent that makes the decal snuggle down on a surface with rivets, bumps, or other irregularities. Indeed some find it too strong with a tendency to make very thin decals almost disintegrate before they can be fully applied.
If by "rougher surfaces" you mean non-glossy, however, then I am not aware of any solution that will help much by virtue of being "stronger."
Dave Nelson
My preferred method for making mortar is:
Paint the brick wall your preferred brick color before assembling.
When the paint is dry, mix some joint compound and water to achieve a skim milk consistency. (I'll call it 'slurry' from here on)
Spray the wall with a mist of water and then brush on the slurry with a cheap 1" paint brush. The brush can be rinsed and used again.
After the slurry has dried, use a damp sponge and lightly graze the brick surface to remove any slurry there.
Done.
I have also misted the end product with India ink in alcohol to make the mortar look dirty.
If, for some reason, you don't like what you see, you can just throw the wall in a bucket of water, lightly scrub with a paint brush and the slurry comes off. Can't do that with thinned white paint.
I've been very happy with this method.
Jeff