RR_Mel This is my Dremel 4486 Keyless Chuck with and without a #80 bit. It isn’t loose either easily tight enough that it would easily drill holes if you have the guts to attempt it at the high RPM of the Dremel. I have drilled a couple of #78 holes in 1/16” styrene using my Dremel in my Dremel Drill Press and really lucked out, didn’t break a bit. That gap at the center of the jaws is smaller than a #80 bit.
Well, I obviously can't argue with photographic evidence (like some can). I was only going by what the Dremel information said, which was 1/32 inch. Maybe there is some tolerance in the numbers so that purchasers can't complain if it won't tighten on a #80. Only way for me to find out is to get one and try it out.
And I wasn't intending to use it in a high speed Dremel. I was going to try it in a Dremel with Variac speed control.
If I get one of the chucks I'll report back if it actually closes down to #80.
Thanks
RR_MelI have drilled a couple of #78 holes in 1/16” styrene using my Dremel in my Dremel Drill Press and really lucked out, didn’t break a bit.
I got my Dremel drill press around 1970 when I was building R/C planes. I could use the smallest drill bits and not break them in the drill press, I had no such luck holding the thing freehand. It was a good investment.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
maxman RR_Mel I just checked mine, it grips an #80 easily If you say so. Not sure how it does, however. #80 is 0.0135 dia. Information for the chuck says it will work down to 1/32 inch, which is 0.031 dia.
RR_Mel I just checked mine, it grips an #80 easily
If you say so. Not sure how it does, however. #80 is 0.0135 dia. Information for the chuck says it will work down to 1/32 inch, which is 0.031 dia.
I will add to the Dremel recommendations. I have a very old two speed 285 that I bought when I was in high school when a local shop was bought out and they decided to clean out the backroom. (THe price I paid for it was so low that I won't mention it.) I also recently purchased a cordless one as well. (I should have purchased the slightly more powerful one butI solved the problem by buying another battery.) To the grumble about discs shattering, I have started putting two of the thinner discs together and that seems to solve that problem. As to the non-straight cuts. I usually set the track on top of where it needs to go, cut it, and then use the disc to grind the track to 90 degrees.
IF a dremel chuck is concentric enough to hold a #80 drill with no run out, so that it could start and drill a hole, where you really wanted it, I really doubt that very many of us have the hand eye coordination to do that. Don't forget the lever effect of holding the Dremel far from the bit.
I gave up on cheapo pin vises because the drill was either off center, or I needed a box wrench and a pair of pliers to adequately tighten the collet so it wouldn't slip. Even then, it was an iffy thing.
I bought a #1 and #3 Starrett off Ebay and it was money well spent. I can tighten the collet with my fingers and it holds.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
RR_MelI just checked mine, it grips an #80 easily
I have a mini chuck that fits in a cordless screw driver, it will close tight on a #80 bit.
I still use that size with a hand pin vise. I break them fast enough, I don't need any power behind it. It is a nice pin vise, with the ball that rest in the palm of your hand, very comfortable to use, and I have very little of the bit sticking out, seems to help.
But I digress.. off topic. Not that I don't think it's been well covered already.
Mike.
My You Tube
RR_Melanyone that doesn’t have a Dremel Chuck is really missing a good thing.
I wish it went down to zero so that I could use a #80 bit.
Renegade1c I use a product called Rubi Slitters. they can be found here. https://www.dedeco.com/product/800/RUBI-SLITTERSbr-1-12-X-032-Br-100BX/5174/ They will cut through just about anything. They are also thinner than the dremel disks at .032" wide and they are 1-1/2" inches in diameter so making cuts in rail are perpendicular to the rail. They are not the cheapest but they work well. They will shatter if you flex them just like the dremel ones. And as mentioned always wear the proper PPE when using Rotary tools. Its only a matter of time before something shoots off of it. Safety glasses are a must. Anyway back to topic. I have 3 dremels, one is 25 years old and I had to replace a Shaft connector insided that rotted out, my bench top one is actually a DC model and has large power brick that controls the speed and I have a newer i use in my travel tool box. One thing I have also found super handy and it has already been mentioned is the 3-jaw chuck. They are worth every penny. No wrench to lose, no collets to deal with and can accept many different drill bits.
I use a product called Rubi Slitters. they can be found here.
https://www.dedeco.com/product/800/RUBI-SLITTERSbr-1-12-X-032-Br-100BX/5174/
They will cut through just about anything. They are also thinner than the dremel disks at .032" wide and they are 1-1/2" inches in diameter so making cuts in rail are perpendicular to the rail.
They are not the cheapest but they work well. They will shatter if you flex them just like the dremel ones.
And as mentioned always wear the proper PPE when using Rotary tools. Its only a matter of time before something shoots off of it. Safety glasses are a must.
Anyway back to topic. I have 3 dremels, one is 25 years old and I had to replace a Shaft connector insided that rotted out, my bench top one is actually a DC model and has large power brick that controls the speed and I have a newer i use in my travel tool box. One thing I have also found super handy and it has already been mentioned is the 3-jaw chuck. They are worth every penny. No wrench to lose, no collets to deal with and can accept many different drill bits.
It's turning into a "what is the best DCC system" thread, or DC vs DCC.
Normal.
ricktrains4824 I would stick with the Dremel branded cut-off disks. They are a bit pricier than the knock-offs, but they are worth it. I've only ever shattered one cut-off disk from them, and that time I had slightly twisted it while cutting, so it was my fault. The knock-offs I have shattered many of, for seemingly zero reason at all. (Including one knock-off that shattered even before cutting anything! It was just spinning on the tool and blew apart before I even did anything with it.)
I would stick with the Dremel branded cut-off disks. They are a bit pricier than the knock-offs, but they are worth it.
I've only ever shattered one cut-off disk from them, and that time I had slightly twisted it while cutting, so it was my fault. The knock-offs I have shattered many of, for seemingly zero reason at all. (Including one knock-off that shattered even before cutting anything! It was just spinning on the tool and blew apart before I even did anything with it.)
I disagree. I have nothing but issues with dremel brand cut-off wheels. They wear out way too quickly (diameter gets smaller and smaller). They are too small to start with.
I had two knock-offs at one point and they both died and ended up in the circular file.
Colorado Front Range Railroad: http://www.coloradofrontrangerr.com/
steemtrayn I, too, had a Craftsman drill with a dead battery. When I bought a new battery, got home and found thay changed the design slightly, but just enough that it would not fit the tool or the charger. Later, I decided to go with Porter Cable and bought an 18 volt set. Now they're selling 20 volt tools that are not compatible with what I have. I have a Ryobi wall mounted vacuum with a charger and they say that they will never change their system of battery attachment, so I think I'll stick with them.
I, too, had a Craftsman drill with a dead battery. When I bought a new battery, got home and found thay changed the design slightly, but just enough that it would not fit the tool or the charger. Later, I decided to go with Porter Cable and bought an 18 volt set. Now they're selling 20 volt tools that are not compatible with what I have. I have a Ryobi wall mounted vacuum with a charger and they say that they will never change their system of battery attachment, so I think I'll stick with them.
SteamTrain,
I have a Craftsman drill I bought back in the early 1990's and was using it right up until last year, AND with one of the original batteries too!
I did find if you put the battery model number in searches, I've found what is supposedly equivelents and eventually I plan to buy one as it will be handy to have two cordless drills on hand for layout building
As for 18V and 20V, seems the companies keep changing to get us to buy the newest model? Battery merry go round.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
IDRick I have found that I must ask questions on a MR forum to get reviews/opinions from MR'ers. Just my experience... Yours likely differs.
I don't know about differing, but I do noticed you get such a variety of answers it often seems there is often no clear winner. I find that often the case here although it doesn't mean you can't gleen a little useful information now and then.
The one thing that stood out in this topic, which stands out from the "I've had good luck with this brand or that brand" is MikeFF who recommended finding older Dremel models. As I mentioned there does seem to have been a trend over the past 10-15 years where many items are now being manufactured in China with cheap materials and they don't seem to last as well as those made before that trend.
Naturally it depends. For battery powered items, battery technology has come a long way so those items may be better from newest models, but corded power tools ... well, food for thought.
Mark B I had a Sears Craftsman rechargeable drill. The battery died and would not take a charge. Took it back to Sears(before they closed our local store) and they weaseled out of their guarantee by saying they only warranted hand tools such as wrenches, hammers etc. Anything that was electrical was not covered. This was on a drill that was about 3 years old. I vowed never to buy anything that said Craftsman on it again. I have a 30 year old corded Dremel and a cordless 5 year old Dremel. Both continue to give excellent service. Dremel is the only way to go. My 2 cents worth. SHC-RIP Mark B.
I had a Sears Craftsman rechargeable drill. The battery died and would not take a charge. Took it back to Sears(before they closed our local store) and they weaseled out of their guarantee by saying they only warranted hand tools such as wrenches, hammers etc. Anything that was electrical was not covered. This was on a drill that was about 3 years old. I vowed never to buy anything that said Craftsman on it again. I have a 30 year old corded Dremel and a cordless 5 year old Dremel. Both continue to give excellent service. Dremel is the only way to go.
My 2 cents worth. SHC-RIP
Mark B.
Back to the main subject...If your looking for a low-priced rotary tool, Harbor Freight has one for about 20 bucks.
Dave
Just be glad you don't have to press "2" for English.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQ_ALEdDUB8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6hqFS1GZL4s
http://s73.photobucket.com/user/steemtrayn/media/MovingcoalontheDCM.mp4.html?sort=3&o=27
riogrande5761 I wonder how useful it is to ask in a forum as user experience is going to be pretty random and probably not that useful, just like the airbrush topic where there is a variety of them and everyone is happy. It might be more useful to read product reviews on the web that ask in a forum?
I wonder how useful it is to ask in a forum as user experience is going to be pretty random and probably not that useful, just like the airbrush topic where there is a variety of them and everyone is happy. It might be more useful to read product reviews on the web that ask in a forum?
MikeFF Suggest that you look on auction site for an older Dremel. My 280 lasted for 50 years and that is what I did to replace it. Also get the the speed control. I very rarely use these at high speed and the control get it down to reasonable.
Suggest that you look on auction site for an older Dremel. My 280 lasted for 50 years and that is what I did to replace it. Also get the the speed control. I very rarely use these at high speed and the control get it down to reasonable.
Mikes may be the best advise here. I like being able to vary the speed and the higher speeds can be useful as it's the strength of these tools vs. brute force.
ricktrains4824I would stick with the Dremel branded cut-off disks. They are a bit pricier than the knock-offs, but they are worth it. I've only ever shattered one cut-off disk from them, and that time I had slightly twisted it while cutting, so it was my fault.
I've only ever shattered one cut-off disk from them, and that time I had slightly twisted it while cutting, so it was my fault.
I've used cut-off disks a lot over the past 30 years and always Dremel brand, and can't see I've had the same experience. I've shattered many over that time and of course have learned how to minimize the chance of shattering over time but only one? You've got the mad cut-off wheel skills!
Therefore, I do also recommend strongly proper PPE, in both hearing protection and impact resistant safety glasses. (Should go without saying, but sometimes we just don't think of these things when doing hobby stuff... I know I have failed to think of it before!)
I don't think there is hardly a post about power tools where there is the obligatory reminder for all the dafty's out there!
Word of advice on the Lowe's editions of the Craftsman line - Their line of Craftsman tools is exclusive to them, and on the power tools, the only ones who have replacement batteries for the Lowe's exclusive edition is Lowe's... So don't try to mix them with the ones you can get at Ace Hardware stores, or Sears/Sears Hometown/Sears Outlet stores. They will not fit each other. (I did try this at my former employer. This is the only reason I know this is indeed true.)
I can't tell you how many charity shops have battery power tools in them; cordless drills seem to have evolved a bit better in recent years but so many other cordless tools end up being useless due to battery issues; I've stuck with my trusty corded Demels and have that's probably why I'm still using the 40 year old one. If it were battery powered, it's been tossed a long time ago. I find for Demels, having a cord isn't terribly inconvenient. Drills are another story.
And, as the Lowe's line is exclusive, they currently do not warranty older Craftsman tools purchased elsewhere, which is their rightful choice to make. (They will warranty their exclusive line, as that is mandated by B&D. However, the B&D warranty for Craftsman line on hand tools now says that you must return it "to the retailer of original purchase" for the warranty to be honored. Power tools have always required original receipt to verify warranty coverage.)
And, Craftsman, nor any other tool brand, has never had a lifetime warranty on any power tool. They are, on average, 1 year, with most brands having only 1 year or less (sometimes none) on batteries. (DeWalt does 1-3 years, 1 year or less [several only 90 days] on batteries.)
For the Milwaukee warranty, you must send the battery in to Milwaukee for them to test, and they decide if they will cover it, or if it was not a manufacturing issue and you must then purchase a new replacement battery pack. Even the Milwaukee power tool itself is limited in warranty coverage, so it's not just a certain retailer issue.
I bought a Dewalt cordless drill which came with 2 batteries. One of them went bad pretty quickly and I called them actually probably more than 6 months after purchase; they sent me a replacement battery with no fuss. Thanks for the heads up on Milwaukee - may be a reason to avoid them if they are that much hassle to get a replacement.
Harbor Frieght has some nice tools, for the price, but you do need to know the tools do have limitations, much like any other. (And, their one power tool line is just a different color DeWalt.... Even the battery packs fit each others tools!)
Interesting.
hon30critter bearman Dremel...period. As for Craftsman, I believe the quality has fallen since Sears sold the brand If I was buying one new today, I would likely be following Bear's advice. My Craftsman is probably 35 years old. Dave
bearman Dremel...period. As for Craftsman, I believe the quality has fallen since Sears sold the brand
If I was buying one new today, I would likely be following Bear's advice. My Craftsman is probably 35 years old.
I have a Dremel variable speed moto tool that is about 40 years old and still going.
That said, my impression is that the durability of moto tools made recently isn't as good as back when my 40 y-o Dremel was made. I also have a Dremel made around 15 or so years ago and it stopped spinning after a few months use. It's achilles heal is a plastic part that connects the motor shaft to the collet drive shaft. You can order replacement plastic connector part but I suspect those will fail over time - I ordered 3 anticiapating this. Basic concept here is most tools are made in China and are probably not the same as those made many moons ago.
My new employer sells Milwaukee and SK tools. (Among others.) Power tools have a limited warranty, with Milwaukee Batteries warrantied only against manufacturer defects in workmanship for 1-3 years, depending on the battery. If the battery wore out, you must purchase a new one. For the Milwaukee warranty, you must send the battery in to Milwaukee for them to test, and they decide if they will cover it, or if it was not a manufacturing issue and you must then purchase a new replacement battery pack. Even the Milwaukee power tool itself is limited in warranty coverage, so it's not just a certain retailer issue.
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
As you said, there are so many. I'd stick with the Dremel brand, mainly because I'm not sure what else is out there from other manufactuers.
But I don't use other brands, so I stick with Dremel, which makes the collet/shaft size work, not sure what other manufactuers use for shaft sizes.
Using a Dremel bit, means I have the correct collet. No looking for odd sizes.
Pick one or two that you'll think you'll use the most, and start from there, and don't ask me which ones I use the most, as it varies with what I'm doing. Probably cutt-off wheels are some where in the top choices, and then ginding bits.
You'll figure it out.
bearman Autonerd I can advise you NOT to buy the cheap little one that Harbor Freight sells. I buy very little from Harbor Freight, especially the knock offs.
Autonerd I can advise you NOT to buy the cheap little one that Harbor Freight sells.
I can advise you NOT to buy the cheap little one that Harbor Freight sells.
I buy very little from Harbor Freight, especially the knock offs.
Interesting comments and helpful advice! After doing some searching, I'm leaning toward purchasing a cordless Dremel 8220 1/28 ($79), a rotary flex shaft ($20) and some diamond cutting wheels. There's many different diamond cutting wheels, can anyone give me a specific recommendation? Thanks
Mike
I have some Dremels and bought the drill press in 1970. They run great still. I have a Kawasaki that is crap. We have some of these around the house for doing dog toenails. I think they are Dremels as the case is the same. We wait for the 70% off sales.
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-1-4a-rotary-tool-with-accessory-kit-250-pc-0544892p.html#srp
I received a Dremel kit as a Christmas gift from my father back in 6th grade. That was 60 years ago. It still works fine, and I use it frequently.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Hello All,
I have had good luck with the Harbor Freight & Tool multi-speed rotary tool (Chicago Electric #68696)
This tool fits the Dremel Work Station.
I added the MicroMark Quick Jaw Vise to securely hold items I am working on with the Work Station.
To cut track I use a Xuron track cutters or a small miter box and saw.
My pike is based on a coal branch loop that uses vintage Tyco Operating Hopper Cars.
These cars have a metal frame and originally came with Hook and Horn (XF2) couplers.
I have been upgrading my fleet of vintage cars to Kadee couplers. This requires the drilling of the frame to tap them for 2/56 screws.
To date I have upgraded over 30 of these vintage cars with the above setup.
I don't use the rotary tool for long periods of time, subjecting it to a lot of wear and tear.
For my purposes this tool has sufficed for my limited use.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
I have the Dremel model 200. I just used it yesterday. It works fine but I’ve only used it on plastic or acrylic so far. I also have the cordless Dremel Minimite 750. It doesn’t have a lot of power but it works ok for drilling very small holes in plastic locomotives. Lowes is now the place to buy Craftsmen tools. I've only had two Craftsmen tools ever break. One was a hacksaw which I used every day at work doing construction. They replaced it no problem back in the 1980s. The other is a rachet wrench which I've had since the 1980s which recently started to fail but I've been to lazy to return since I have others.