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How to refurbish a P1k F3A?

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How to refurbish a P1k F3A?
Posted by IDRick on Wednesday, March 20, 2019 9:41 PM

I was able to inexpensively acquire a P1K F3A that is new in the box but had sat on a shelf for 15 to 20 years...  Price was right but I've never cleaned the gears of a Proto loco or performed general maintenance on one.  Can someone give me some direction and hopefully a link that shows the process?  I'm a visual learner so pictures help me a lot!  :-)

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Posted by RR_Mel on Wednesday, March 20, 2019 9:48 PM

There is a good breakdown of a F3 on HOSeeker, go to Life Like click on Engine Diagrams/Part Numbers then F-3 Proto 1000 2.
 
 
 
 
Mel
 
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
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Posted by IDRick on Wednesday, March 20, 2019 10:10 PM

Thanks Mel, the HOseeker site is a tremendous resource but the images are not always as helpful as they could be.  For example, on my P2K GP30, it was not clear from the diagram that the chassis was held in place by only two screws, a very important detail for me.   

In this case, I am looking for a bit more of a tutorial such as how to clean out the old dried grease, which parts to lubricate, and so forth.

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Posted by mbinsewi on Wednesday, March 20, 2019 10:37 PM

If your going to run locos like this, you need to learn how they come apart, how to clean them, and put'em back together.  They won't bite.  Laugh

So now you caught on to how the big weight inside that covers the  motor comes off the frame, now you know what to look for on the next one.

It all needs to come apart, dropping the trucks, completely from the frame, remove the bottom truck cover, remove the side frames,  remove the axles, remove the electrical contact strip, remove the snap on cover on the front face of truck, the truck will now split into two pieces.  If it's not on the front face, look on the back, but there is another clip, beside the bottom cover that holds the truck halves together.

Remove the gears, completely clean out all old grease, clean the gears, clean the worm gear assembly. 

I use LaBelle 106 grease?  I think it's 106.  Just a tiny bit on the worm gear, and it will work it's way around the rest of the gears.

Use the HOSeeker diagram as a guide.  It shows the parts, might not be as detailed as you like, but you'll learn how to "read between the lines" with these diagrams.  From each loco, you'll learn a little more.

You can search for a You Tube, I'm not sure if one excist.

Jump in Rick, take the beast apart and clean it up.  Older blue box Athearns are a easier, not quite as much stuff to remove.  A great loco to learn with.

Most of these P2k's and P1k's have the Athearn "clone" drive. almost just like an Athearn.

By the way, I replied a "Thanks" for the speaker info.

Mike.

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Posted by j. c. on Thursday, March 21, 2019 12:09 AM

also be sure to check out the axle gears, they have a history of splitting.

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Posted by garya on Thursday, March 21, 2019 12:49 AM

IDRick

In this case, I am looking for a bit more of a tutorial such as how to clean out the old dried grease, which parts to lubricate, and so forth.

 

 

Is the grease dried out?  My experience with these locos is that Life-Like used a lot of grease, but it doesn't harden up. I'd clean the wheels and see if it runs.

Gary

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Posted by RR_Mel on Thursday, March 21, 2019 11:43 AM

I agree with J.C., check the gears for cracks!!!!  I’ve bought several used Proto 1000 series locomotives and every one had at least one broken gear.  Replace them with Athearn ATH-60024 gears.
 
 
Mel
 
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
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Posted by IDRick on Thursday, March 21, 2019 4:44 PM

Thanks guys, always helpful!  I did find a video that demonstrates how to clean the trucks   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wYkzmwS-sYg

I found it helpful because shows me how things go together and how to take apart.  My friend Mike, is right, I need get my feet wet and start working on my locomotives.

I trying to make sure I have everything I need before starting.  Appreciate the heads-up on the potential cracked axles, will order replacements before starting.  Mike suggested some Lobelles 206 for lubrication.  What about cleaning parts, just wipe as they did in the video or use a solution (if so, which one)?

I don't know for sure if the grease has hardened/dried out.  Just a guess and suggested by the original owner.  Assuming I need to remove the hardened grease, what is the process?  soak and wipe?  Clean with a toothbrush or what?

Thanks, you're all helping me move from novice to semi novice status...  Most appreciated!

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Posted by garya on Thursday, March 21, 2019 4:54 PM

IDRick

Thanks guys, always helpful!  I did find a video that demonstrates how to clean the trucks   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wYkzmwS-sYg

I found it helpful because shows me how things go together and how to take apart.  My friend Mike, is right, I need get my feet wet and start working on my locomotives.

I trying to make sure I have everything I need before starting.  Appreciate the heads-up on the potential cracked axles, will order replacements before starting.  Mike suggested some Lobelles 206 for lubrication.  What about cleaning parts, just wipe as they did in the video or use a solution (if so, which one)?

I don't know for sure if the grease has hardened/dried out.  Just a guess and suggested by the original owner.  Assuming I need to remove the hardened grease, what is the process?  soak and wipe?  Clean with a toothbrush or what?

Thanks, you're all helping me move from novice to semi novice status...  Most appreciated!

 

If you flip the loco over, there is a cover plate on each truck that fits over the gears.  A small screw driver can pop that off, and you can remove the wheelsets and gears.  You can wipe the grease off, but if it's really hard you may need to use Dawn and hot water and an old toothbrush.  You may need to remove the trucks completely to get all the hardened grease out.

The F3s are easy to take apart:  remove the front coupler, and spread the shell above the fuel tank. The shell should come off.  You can remove the power leads from the trucks to the boards by removing the plastic covers and removing.  There is a cover over the truck that can be popped off, at which time the truck can be removed and disassembled. Don't lose the brass bearings for the worm gear.

 

Gary

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Posted by BigDaddy on Thursday, March 21, 2019 5:04 PM

IDRick
I don't know for sure if the grease has hardened/dried out.

My P2K G7 had grease that looked like peanut butter.  I assume that is the dried out look.  While you in there, we are talking about what, 20 year old grease?   Just wash it out and replace, soap & water or alcohol, no need for strong solvents.

Henry

COB Potomac & Northern

Shenandoah Valley

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Posted by mbinsewi on Thursday, March 21, 2019 7:35 PM

IDRick
I don't know for sure if the grease has hardened/dried out.  Just a guess and suggested by the original owner.  Assuming I need to remove the hardened grease, what is the process?  soak and wipe?  Clean with a toothbrush or what?

It's LaBelle #106, it's a white grease, made for plastic.  Scrubbing things off with a toothbrush is fine, as the guys say, you don't need any heavy chemicals. The gears are made from that slippery plastic, so a little bit of grease works.

A good heads-up about the worm gear assembly was given.  Make sure all the parts stay in place.  The two bearing blocks, and with each block, is a tiny thrust washer, don't loose those.

Be careful with the power conract strip, I think it has a wire attached, just make sure it, and all surfaces it contact are clean and shiny.

I haven't watched the video, just follow along, and have the diagram as well.

You'll be fine.

Mike.

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Posted by Wolf359 on Friday, March 22, 2019 3:04 PM

I found a "how to" for this on YouTube that might be of some help to you. Here's the link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dAxp2YZ_ivM

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Posted by Autonerd on Sunday, March 24, 2019 12:39 PM

I have purchased some old P1ks and P2ks with drivelines that were bound up from sitting. Hand-turning the motors with some power applied to the test track usually got 'em going. 

Nothing fancy needed to clean the gears, I just use paper towels and clean out what I can. Make sure the grease or oil you use is plastic-compatible.

Good point about the bearing blocks... look carefully at the worm gear assembly (maybe take a digital photo) before you disassemble it so you can get everything back together in the right order.

It's always good to only disassemble one loco (or one truck) at a time so you have a reference if you get lost. :)

I have found cracked gears in four-axle P2ks but not E-units and (so far) no P1ks... no axle-cracked clicking noises from my C-Liners, but to be far I've not yet taken the trucks apart to inspect them.

Overall it's not rocket science and you'll be fine. :) These are great locomotives, they run smoothly and pull like crazy, and I'm sure you'll be very happy with them.

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Posted by IDRick on Monday, March 25, 2019 11:00 AM

Thanks Autonerd, great tips!  Especially keeping a reference point in case I got lost!  :-)

Wolf, thanks for the link, very informative!

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Posted by garya on Monday, March 25, 2019 11:13 AM

Autonerd

I have purchased some old P1ks and P2ks with drivelines that were bound up from sitting. Hand-turning the motors with some power applied to the test track usually got 'em going. 

Nothing fancy needed to clean the gears, I just use paper towels and clean out what I can. Make sure the grease or oil you use is plastic-compatible.

Good point about the bearing blocks... look carefully at the worm gear assembly (maybe take a digital photo) before you disassemble it so you can get everything back together in the right order.

It's always good to only disassemble one loco (or one truck) at a time so you have a reference if you get lost. :)

I have found cracked gears in four-axle P2ks but not E-units and (so far) no P1ks... no axle-cracked clicking noises from my C-Liners, but to be far I've not yet taken the trucks apart to inspect them.

Overall it's not rocket science and you'll be fine. :) These are great locomotives, they run smoothly and pull like crazy, and I'm sure you'll be very happy with them.

 

My experience has been that LifeLike put WAY too much lube on these locos, so you may want to clean them up even if the grease hasn't hardened.  Mine haven't hardened up, but I have a few that have been sitting in a box for several years that I should check.

I also had cracked gears only on 4-axle P2Ks, not on P1Ks, but I have been advised it can happen with them, too. 

The P1Ks are excellent--I bought a bunch for parts and for kitbashes years ago when Trainworld was blowing them out--and I have been very happy with them.

Gary

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