Years ago, I was into buying undecorated kits along with sets of decals. Then, everything got pushed aside. I'm currently digging them out and had some problems with the decals for the first effort. I seem to recall having read that they should be sprayed with a clear whatever to hold them together while being installed. What's recommended to use here? Thanks!!
Microscale offers a product called Liquid Decal Film.
The directions are to brush-paint it over the decal sheet, then allow it to dry for 15 minutes. You can then cut-out and apply as you would with a new decal.
Wayne
I use lots of old decals. Many going back to the 1950s or 1960s.
.
1) try an unneeded portion of the decal first as a test. Most decals will stay good for decades if stored in a controlled environment. You might not need to do anything.
2) If thew decal breaks apart, then the Microscale Liquid Decal film is your best friend. Use it just as Wayne described. It works miracles on old brittle decals
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Thanks guys! I know where I'm headed next week! Off to the LHS (which isn't that local, but...)
Doc, Kevin,
Thanks for posting those tips!
I have some "new-in-the-pack" SCL locomotive decal sheets that I bought 8 years ago that I will, finally, be using soon (E-units). I've kept them stored in one of those white plastic drawer organizers from Walmart, but wonder if they will still be in good condition once I take them out.
As a precaution, I'll purchase a bottle of the Liquid Decal Film.
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
AntonioFP45Thanks for posting those tips!
Glad to help.
One of my best finds ever was this original set of VIRGINIAN AND OHIO decals from the 1970s. Liquid Decal Film saved them, and I was able to get a true treasure of a freight car.
I also have a lot of custom decals from Whit Tower's estate. I have lettered a few boxcars with these decals that date back into the early 1960s. These must have been well stored, because none of them needed any help.
Also, sometimes very older decals need to soak in water for more than an hour before the decal film releases. Never try to force them. Be patient.
I have acquired many sets of Donald Manlick and Rail Graphics custom decals from the 1990s. These never need any help.
PeteVSWill Testors "gloss cote" work to strengthen the decals?
Yes, it will make the decals less likely to fall apart. The down-side is that it seems to make the decal setting solution less effective.
Hi,
Thought I'd post an update.
I checked my "ancient" bottles of Microset and Microsol via the old fashioned "Sniff Test", LOL! The chemicals still have their odors. I can't remember exactly when, but I think I purchased them back during the 2009-10 period. Hard to believe but even though the bottles are nearly 1/2 full, I've decaled a lot of cars/materials with them.
But after reading this thread, I decided to go ahead and purchase a pair of fresh bottles, plus the Liquid Decal Film. The bottles are slightly shorter in height but are larger in circumference, so they're all still 1oz containers. I have to admit though that the larger labeling on the older bottles is much more eye-catching and stylish. But, understandbly like any business, Micoscale is trying to keep expenses down.
Well, if the forumula is the same as in the older bottles, these should last me another decade or so! I'm also looking forward to trying out the Decal Film on some new-old stock decals for more passenger cars, cabooses, and locomotives.
Left: 2009 bottles Right: Current
Liquid Decal Film
This is a useful discussion because some of us remember when an excellent website called Great Decals listed so many providers of interesting and obscure decals, and now many of them are gone. Thus the value of and need to use older decals (some not manufactured to the highest standards but rather were made by some dedicated modeler in his basement) is only going to increase.
By the way the Great Decals website is still around.
http://greatdecals.com/Decals.html
Dave Nelson
For dry transfers you can microwave them, works most of the time unless they are dirty.
rrebellFor dry transfers you can microwave them, works most of the time unless they are dirty.
That sounds promising - any special procedures? I've always been a big fan of dry transfers, but the number of suppliers is dwindling.
AntonioFP45Liquid Decal Film
When you first use the liquid decal film, I would suggest you try it on an unneeded decal first. It does behave a little differently than a regular decal.
Kevin,
Thank you, I will follow your advice. I have quite a number of extra, older MIcroscale decals that I'll practice on.
It does bother me that (in reading other posts) that due to California's stringent environmental laws, Mircoscale has not been using the same types of opaque inks that they were employing back in the 80's. As a result, their decals do seem to be more fragile and less durable in long term storage. To me, Microscale's decals have always been the BEST and most precicse for modeling the prototype railroads. It's a shame that the company was forced to make compromises.
Being a small business, Microscale is likely entrenched in its current California location......but I certainly wish that they could relocate to another state (TN,MN, GA,AL,FL) where the DEP doesn't put a "choke-hold" on businesses that use chemicals responsibly and dispose or recycle them properly.
But staying on topic: Currently, I keep my decal sheets on my bookshelf, away from sunlght, inside of a folder. Thermostat is usually set to 76°F or 77°F. Although, appearance-wise, they're in "new condition" most of the ones I'll be using are 5 to 8 years old, so I anticipate using the Liquid Decal Film.
SeeYou190 AntonioFP45 Liquid Decal Film . When you first use the liquid decal film, I would suggest you try it on an unneeded decal first. It does behave a little differently than a regular decal. . -Kevin .
AntonioFP45 Liquid Decal Film
AntonioFP45most of the ones I'll be using are 5 to 8 years old, so I anticipate using the Liquid Decal Film.
I am currently (literally, as I am typing this) using decal sheets 20-30 years old. They need nothing, and are like new.
I doubt you will need to do much with decals under ten years old.
Understood. However, there was one occasion where I attempted to use an Atlantic Coast Line decal sheet for one of my passenger cars. After soaking a passenger car number block in distilled water for a few minutes, it disintegrated as I gently attempted to slide it off of the backing paper on to the shell.
It was only about 5 years old. Produced by Mircroscale for the ACL & SAL historical society.
I don't know if, perhaps before I got the sheet, it sat on a shelf exposed to heat or if the material may have been defective.
But in the future I'll play it safe.
SeeYou190 AntonioFP45 most of the ones I'll be using are 5 to 8 years old, so I anticipate using the Liquid Decal Film. . I am currently (literally, as I am typing this) using decal sheets 20-30 years old. They need nothing, and are like new. . I doubt you will need to do much with decals under ten years old. . . -Kevin .
AntonioFP45 most of the ones I'll be using are 5 to 8 years old, so I anticipate using the Liquid Decal Film.
AntonioFP45It was only about 5 years old. Produced by Mircroscale for the ACL & SAL historical society. I don't know if, perhaps before I got the sheet, it sat on a shelf exposed to heat or if the material may have been defective.
That is unfortunate.
I had a similar experience with a set of NEW YORK CENTRAL decals from Microscale that I bought in the 1980s. The decals completely dissintegrated when they were soaked in water.
They were new, and I have no idea what happened. At the time I was young and had little experience with decals.
If you're not sure about brushing the Microscale Decal Saver, another option you can use is a spray can of Decal Bonding Spray from Testors. It is included as part of their decal creation kit and also can be purchased separarely. Stock number for the can is 9200. I use it on any decals that I purchase, no matter how new or old. I automatically use it with stripes.
rrebell For dry transfers you can microwave them, works most of the time unless they are dirty.
sample
dextianInteresting. How long do I need to put it in the microwave?
And... what power setting.